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You don't necessarily need to retain a stock weight or spring. In the GM world, there were many different weights and springs, depending on the application. Here are the instructions for one kit: https://documents.holley.com/20248.pdf
As you can imagine with the number of vehicles these transmissions have been used in over the years, you'll find much discussion about changing weights on various forums.
Well, turns out you can buy a new gear "kit" for $10 from Shift Technology, so I did that. Apparently they assume everyone knows how to install it since it came with no directions, but after a few minutes of staring at it the procedure was easy enough to divine.
I also got the weight kit. I'm not so clear on this...so is the idea that one of the "stock" weights stays on, and that you then replace the other stock weight with one of their weights/springs? The instructions that come with this kit are not clear to me, but they probably assume they are selling to someone who knows about transmissions (which would NOT be me).
Jagboy, I'm not much for hunting around junkyards, just lazy that way I guess. I'd do it if I had to, but for $10 I'll pass. I'm probably not the adventuresome type .
As always guys, thanks so much! I'll keep you posted.
John
1987 XJ-S V12
You replace BOTH weights. The lighter the weight the higher revs the shift. As Jagboi said, trial and error is the way to do it. This works (I think) because the lighter the weight, the less far the weights centrifuge outwards at a given RPM, this in turn changes the governor's position at those RPMs, and thus the change point is reached at higher RPMs.
Last edited by Greg in France; Mar 10, 2022 at 12:22 AM.
Here is what I have. On the left are the new weights. Upper right new springs. Lower right "old" weights and spring (there are other parts not in the photo, but these are all the inner weights).
The new weights are labeled A to F. All of the weights are, well different weights. So is the idea that I start with, say weight "C" and weight "D", go drive it and see what I think, then try a different set of weights?
I'm thinking that the weights should be the same weight on both sides, but that's not doable with what came in the kit.
This discussion should help. You do not need the same weight or spring on each side, but you will probably have to change the weights and springs on each side. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...s-springs.html
Have you considered replacing the modulator valve with an adjustable one? Besides the XJS I also own a 1967 Camaro, kinda obvious, that has a turbo 400. The modulator is adjustable to provide different rpm shift points. To adjust, remove the short section of hose and insert a small flat bladed screw driver to unload/load the internal spring. It is just a thought that came to me after reading your post. Good luck!
Hi myame is Derek I had the same problem after a bit of head scratching I found it to be the very small switch under neath where two long rods connect to the accelerator on goes to the left throttle linkage and one goes to the right they are about 35 quid from simply performance 07984622662 or 07539898116
After a very long pause in t his project I finally did replace the transmission governor with a rebuilt one. Now, the transmission is very slow to go into reverse. Driving forward shifts are fine?
The transmission fluid is over the full mark (my bad), and I'm wondering if draining some fluid might help solve this issue.
After a very long pause in t his project I finally did replace the transmission governor with a rebuilt one. Now, the transmission is very slow to go into reverse. Driving forward shifts are fine?
Is there any delay in going from P to D? It's possible that the O ring on the filter has a slight leak, or the filter had dropped down if it isn't a match for your pan, as there are deep and shallow pans and filters. If you're sucking some air past the filter neck where it's pushed into the transmission body you will have a slow engagement.
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