I had a suspension alignment recently & my rear toe was ever so slightly out, approximately -0.3degree one side, + 0.3 the other (fairly even toe in/out across either side)
With the front toe set perfectly straight this means the steering wheel is slightly crooked when driving straight.

Does anyone know if there is a way to adjust this? I can't see any obvious adjustment.

I need to remove my rear sub frame at some point in the near future to refurb the brakes so can perhaps do what's required then.

Cheers,

 

Are you sure rack was centred when the alignment was done. Rod/drill bit into rack setting hole.
l can't imagine your rear is out enough to notice at the steering wheel.

 

No adjustment for rear toe. If it is out of spec then something is bent or worn.

Cheers
DD

 

If total toe in rear is zero, then I would be looking at the cradle and mounts. The amount that you are describing is really minimal. Measure the wheelbase from a chassis reference in front to the zerk fitting hole on the lower control arm, then also measure across car from the opposite unibody rail to the zerk fitting hole. The cage may be shifted side to side, or more back on one side or the other.
Before any of that though, I would get another alignment measurement on another machine. A difference of .3 degree could be an error in set up or calibration of the equipment.

 

If the only symptom is a misaligned steering wheel; but otherwise the car tracks straight and true, then all that has to be done to align the wheel is to adjust one track rod in and the other out by the sam amount.
The 0.3° rear toe difference is nothing to worry about at all.

 

One other possibility. The needle bearings on the lower rear suspension bushings can ( and do) wear unevenly. Because the arc the suspension moves is little, only a few degrees, the whole load is on a few bearings. Unless they are very frequently greased. They will flatten out and cause a slight misalignment.
At least it’s a way to spend a lot of money with no real improvement.
You should replace all the needles on both sides front and rear plus the bushings ( and new seals).
Mind you, I build and race those cars. On big 4 mile long race tracks where the top speed exceeds 150 mph. Only rarely do I ever replace those And I start out with Junkyard throwaways.

 

Long shot, but some shops will build in an alignment margin to account for road chamber and reposition the steering wheel on the spline so it appears to be straight. Then the next shop does it without the chamber margin and the steering wheel seems off.