Filler neck has an O ring - or is it two - can't recall but they're a **** once dry to get moving, only thing for it is force I'm afraid - tank is much easier to get in and out without that in there.

I ended up getting creative and used a two legged puller with the hooks inside the place where the cap fits, but I braced the puller centre bolt against a pinch bar (kind of small crowbar) that in turn was braced against the side of the car on pieces of wood, not very pretty but got it out, had to work on the wood part because it was distorting the car around the filler neck so I had to spread the load. Doing it by hand I could pull it a small amount but it would go straight back in the puller made easy work of it.

 

I was actually able to remove it with neck still attached once the soft padding on sides of the tank was removed. Was not really hard to do... Took first the right side out and then slid the neck out carefully. I tried everything but it would not go. Even when it was on the ground already. It moves, even rotates, but won't go. Would need a lot of force. I was confused because the rubber hose around it looked like it is the only thing holding it together...

 

Please post pictures of your progress and modifications.

 

yes definitely! I always record and photograph the progress, will sure be dramatic few episodes. A bit bummed there was 1/10 chance she would fire up as the first problem I found was critical enough to have unskilled electrician to give up on her, but the bad fuel made it all to a bigger project.

 

So have you subscribed the pumps yet ?

 

subscribed?

 

WOW! Yep.. wow. *Just checks back in* That tank is rough. I'd imagine the best way to clean it is to cap the exits and fill it with a phosphoric acid solution, pressure wash, drain, fill with cheap vodka, splash it around, drain and let it dry.... It's reasonable to worry about your lines, and if you've got the ability to replace / re-engineer them & proper crimpers.. why not? This might be a chance to to try out that NiCopp (works for fuel too in the right dia), or SS though...have fun bending that....

Per BenKenobie on these forums, there apparently IS such thing as counterfeit Kunifer/NiCopp that can rust. Check what you get with a magnet. It shouldn't' stick (despite the nickel and slight Fe). I just double checked the spare bit I have with a neodymium magnet and nope.. nada.. no stick.

You could also try to blow out the existing lines and recirculate EvapoRust through them for a few days (transfer pump + bucket) then blow out with vodka.

I still have to pull the tank on my X300 myself.... been putting it off.

~PK.

From JPart - Illustrations:

 

I hadn't spotted that picture - way to go - I had the same stuff in my old tank, tried everything including enough caustic to cause the water in the tank to boil - nah not sketchy at all - nope not sketchy it was terrifying ... and even after a week soaking that stuff persisted.

This was the inside of mine taken with a borescope - the pipe in the image is the tank outlet at the bottom





Nearest I can tell is that it is actually something like the plague of diesels, it is dead bacteria and what is left when petrol is degraded and consumed by said bacteria, don't want to be a purveyor of doom but check your swirl tank (does your model even have one - maybe not), mine was also full, I removed the fuel drain and nothing drained, just started dripping a gloopy black tar that after a while open to atmosphere was rock hard. I got the stuff out of the swirl tank with a spray painters tool called 'gun wash' - it is nasty stuff, not environmentally friendly and certainly not people friendly but it will disolve pretty much anything it contacts, there was no way I was tipping 10 gallons of the stuff in a petrol tank - that's just a disposal and handling nightmare.

Scary part is that when I found this my car had been parked only 3 years though it had been sat for 15 years when I got it. I think some of these 'things' are why many revive an old classic and end up chasing countless little issues that never end because the issue is never truly fixed.

Needless to say I have replaced the tank and every single fuel line - my injectors were also not in the best of health ... the rabbit hole goes deep Alice ...

 

Wow, but that is same experience. Worst part is 10 years old younger fuel parked for few years. Old oldtimers parked with old fuel are not that bad. Seen few.
And no chance to revive that fuel tank, that might be good for a flipper but my intentions is that this will be my forever ever car.
Reason i will not even try to make it original (even though i am quite a purist when it comes to design) is that original design was bad, no reason to shoot my self in foot and spend money on replicating that when it is hidden under the carpets anyway. This is a tuning I am ok with. And on electric. Simplify, throw away unnecessary things, but keep outer appearance and functionality as stock as possible.
Fuel line i will do with chrome plated copper yes. Have made a good experience with it. Easy to bend and robust as hell and with good flaring it can go quite a few bars on simple fittings for years though i will use the alu screw fittings.
I will not bother with fuel return or purge line, it will have classic breather and no return. If MOT will complain about spitting flames, i will put there small overflow can with a valve.

 

Am I wrong in thinking .. how do you control fuel pressure with a 120PSI pump w/o a regulator and fuel return though? If the end is capped how can excess pressure be dumped?

I'm not sure how happy the Zytek ECU will be unless it's happy flipping on and off it's purge valves... and thinks all is well with that...

I can def see a custom TIG welded Alu tank back there though + AN fuel fittings.

~PK

 

Am in very rude agreement. I am also trying to turn the car that requires less time under and more time in, I don't do the breakdown / unreliability thing. You can go too far, I am purist enough that putting an LS3 or something in it is never going to happen, nor are 20" wheels etc but I am considering a more modern ZF 6 speed transmission. I have replaced the entire fuel and ignition system - and to my mind simplified lots of things and also provided the path to the transmission upgrade - though your generation of XJS has already got many of the simplifications that I have introduced.

Chrome plated copper - do tell - didn't even know there was such a thing and since I am repeating some previous work I am open to ideas

 

It is becoming more and more a practice that closed loop is the way to go with pressure managed 100% at the pump - PWM managed - some use valves some vary the pump I think - read a bit about this but am no expert

footnote - I am not aware whether there is a pump that will suit the XJS tank that could manage pressure, wouldn't know how it was set up, these things generally have a dedicated controller either in the pump head or the ECU - you need a form of control from somewhere though if you don't have a 'return'.

 

100% right decision! Good for you.
Also, unless you know for certain how to do it, and that it will work on an XJS, I respectfully suggest you put in a return line. Easy to do, simplifies fuel pressure regulator options, and the only part of the XJS fuel system that is100% reliable!

 

Not sure how that happened😁

Have you dismantled the pumps/swirl pots yet to see what they are like inside ?

 

Yes there will be definitely some trial and error in the process, but I will try to stick what either others did or what I used to do all the time on upgrades of american V8s. I know jag is more sensitive and will likely not work the first time, but I am sure there is enough info somewhere and if not, try and error will do. Maybe some information about real racing jaguars, hard to believe they used the stock system.
No, i didn't opened the pumps, they were full of goo and smelled badly, i threw them away as I cannot get that smell away from my garage 🤢
I decided to add there fuel return line as well, just for sake of simplicity later. Like if "using it makes my car running today easily" and have option as well in case one 9mm fuel line would not be wide enough (should).
After few days of working on customer cars, had time to work on Saphira today again.

First I decided to relocate battery as well to cleanup the boot area. So my battery will now come on the passenger side, being protected with wall and firewall from two sides, fuse panel from other side and a custom mount from the 4th side.
I pulled also 2 6mm² red and black wires, 12x wire for signal purposes, and white wire with 3x 1,5mm² inside for various other things all the way from back where first fuse/relay box will be, to the front foot-well where the second fuse box will be.
Main battery wire gets also a fuse now.



Here come out all the new wires. I might not need that much, but like to have it in case I have to and not need to open it in the future. I fixed most of the original harness issues which were obvious, but there are still way too many mystery wires and color changes, some looking even like factory, so not sure how much I will be reusing or redoing. Once the engine runs and I will start reassembling it, i will decide.



Pulled out the rear seat as well and routed new cables behind it, also used the chance to clean it up a bit and remove the aftermarket wires for audio and probably reverse camera which were there.



I reused the original fuel bracket holes and one "spare" hole to hold the new electric panel in.
It is made from marine plywood and will be painted with flame reducing black paint. On here come all new fuses, relays and some old ones which are now randomly around the car. This panel will also act like another barrier to keep new fuel tank (i decided for custom made stainless fuel tank because none of the universal plastic would fit in size I wanted) and battery in place in case of tragedy (they of course will have their own mount.
Fuel pump and filter will be on left side of the fuel tank which ends before the big hole in the floor. So so far I didn't need to make any new holes in my body and boot will be very smooth and organized with carpets up

 

Another advantage will be now that EVERYTHING will be now behind my "ON" switch. Which is the most effective fight against parasitic draws (and easier to find and fix them later). No need to view in diagrams for days which relay turns what, breaks what fuse, what connector. If the car is off, it is off. Like in good old days. I do not need to keep lights slowly fading 5 minutes after i close doors, or my computer overthinking when someone walks around with a compatible remote.
I will keep the key starter though, I like that for nostalgic reasons.

 

Work work is calling so not that much time, but got my Sapphira some upgrade. Main electric panel. Battery feed comes from top (shortest possible wire), goes to fuse box, and all new relays and fuses (there will be new fuse panel in dash and in front of the car too). But now even starter cable is fused so no more fires or explosions.
My electric design is way simplified, one huge *** relay to power everything non critical and everything fused for safety. Such you need only few relays and even less fuses, concentrated where they are easy to find. Also no risk of electric leak as key off means OFF. Only exception being passive central lock and radio memory.

 

Great job, great design idea too.

 

Well done indeed.

Gone are the days of my first Jag, 2 fuses for the whole car, oh boy.

 

Thank you, it is still work in progress but will be safer and easier to fix.