Hi Paul; the gearbox was rinsed three years ago. Since then maybe 1000 km driven. The oil is very clear; it's so clear it's even very hard to check the level. So unfortunately I don't expect that this will help a lot... would a too low level give these problems? Almost certain level is ok.

thanx, pim

QUOTE=ptjs1;2814532]Pim,

I relaised you hadn't told us when you last changed teh transmission fluid. These boxes are very susceptible to clean fluid.

As a final throw of the dice, and because it's probably long overdue anyway, drain and change your transmission fluid. And do it four times with a good warmup and cycling of the selector multiple time times in between each drain. This is because you'll only drain between 2.6 & 3.2 litres of fluid each time, and there's 10 litres of fluid in the system including pipes and oil cooler. So you have to do it multiple times to get the bulk of dirty fluid out of the system.

I'd also suggest changing the filter. If so, do it after the second or third change.

It might just cure your problem before you start buying a new TCM!

And if you buy a filter, DO NOT buy the one that all the suppliers quote. It's the one part of the Jaguar parts system that is incorrect and all the suppliers now quote the wrong number. The correct part number is JLM664. DO NOT buy JLM2128. It will not fit!

Cheers

Paul[/QUOTE]

 

Pim,

IME, low fluid level on these ZF boxes causes clunks, stalling and gear slip. But not usually fault codes.

So, although I've never heard of a TCM failing, maybe that's what has happened? It still seems strange, emanating from a coolant leak? I'd still try and get someone with the right software to interrogate the TCM first and see if they can clear it out.

Paul

 

I’m sorry. Because you have the coupe, I kept equating it to the x300.

There was a TCM TSB for both the x300 and XJS, but I believe there was a different code thrown that initiated this TSB. The TCM would not be seen by the ECU and it had to be replaced.

Thats where I learned that the 001 belongs to the XJS and the 004 went with the x300.

I will try to track that TSB down.

It’s either the TCM or you’ll need to take it to a transmission or jaguar specialist. I know it seems like the coolant leak caused a problem, but based on what’s being reported, I just don’t see how coolant could have caused this.

You made a statement saying the transmission fluid is so clear it’s hard to take a reading. Transmission fluid is red. Your fluid isn’t coming up clear, is it? It should be a bright cherry red.

 

http://jagrepair.com/images/TSB/TSB2...d%20Module.pdf

Here is that TSB, btw

 

Hi Vee; the fluid is clear. And I think it's dexron III . As far as I can remember it has alwsys been clear..


thanx, pim

 

Thanx for the finding the TSB! I called a jag specialist and am waiting for their response; hope they will get back to me soon.

i will keep you posted...
pim
QUOTE=Vee;2814736]http://jagrepair.com/images/TSB/TSB2...d%20Module.pdf

Here is that TSB, btw[/QUOTE]

 

I am not aware of clear transmission fluid. Perhaps that’s a European thing?

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj6-xjr6-x300-26/clear-transmission-fluid-177345/

This may be your problem? Who put the fluid in there?

 

Not a european thing! Nevr heard or seen it.

 

Dexron II is pink / red.....but, it can always be difficult to see the fluid on that Auto dipstick, so maybe that's what is confusing things.

Paul

 

Hi, i will have another thorough look tomorrow, what color it is. Like Paul said; its very hard to read the level because of the transparency. Maybe the level is too low, and the oil i see is too little and thin, but until recently, the transmission operated buttery smooth.

Also was the transmission flushed by a professional transmission specialist three years ago. I read something about professional available transmission oil that could be transparent. Tomorrow i'm calling the local jag specialist and will aslo ask him.

thanks again

 

Pim,

I'm not aware of clear fluid that is suitable for these boxes, but maybe it exists?

IME, the ZF boxes in the 4 litre need the correct amount of oil or they just don't operate properly. Even 0.5 litres short of the required amount and they can stall, clunk and slip. If the box was operating completely normally before the coolant leak, I suspect that the level was probably ok.

Cheers

Paul

 

I had a better look today; and the transmission oil is indeed pink. looks healthy, and is in between markings for a hot engine. I drove with my TCM disconnected, and only got codes P1775 (No data exchange between ECM and TCM because of internal fault in the switch) and P1777 now, which seems logical. without TCM.

still no answer from the local jag specialist.

 

Ok so today I decided to buy a new battery; the old one was old and I had to jumpstart the car every few days. because I read some posts about bad batteries giving strange fault codes; and the jag specialist also told me that the battery really has to be in good condition, I changed it. nothing changed with the codes.
Then I called another specialist, who told be that the abs module also can be the problem. so I disconnected it, and started the engine, still same codes. Then I cleared the codes with my app (I did that earlier, and every time the check engine would go out, and the gearbox light would go out for 0.1 sec and come on again. )But this time the gearbox light stayed off also. after twenty seconds or so, it came on again. but this never happened before. then I reconnected the ABS, cleared codes again, same thing, gearbox light stayed off, so it seems ABS had nothing to do with it. I testdrove it, everything perfect, butter smooth all gears. a minute later, light on again, and limp mode.
Went back home, cleared codes again, turned off ignition; started and let the car run for ten minutes, and test-drove for half an hour. light is still off. I tried to wiggle all cables, relays, the TCM while engine was running, no light coming on anymore. So...!
Did the battery really did the trick? and why did the light come on after the first twenty seconds and later after minute or two? maybe because the battery was new and it had to be charged a bit by the alternator?
Or was it just another coincidence that the moist that was somewhere evaporated??? I don't have a clue, and I doesn't feel reliable yet.

So I don't think the problem permanently will be gone now. Tomorrow im putting the interior together again and wil testdrive some more. But this would be great obviously.
For now, thanks Vee and Paul and also the others for helping me out, I know a lot more about my car now; and I hope I can help you guy out also one day...

thanks, I'll keep you posted!

Pim

 

Pim,

It's true that battery voltage is critical, particularly on newer Jags as regards, fault codes and warning lights. However, the XJS has never been as susceptible to that as the post-Canbus cars.

So, it could have contributed, but I think it unlikely,

I'm sure it's frustrating for you, but the more journeys you do without problems, the more I think it is likely that it was moisture in the plug / wires.

Good luck

Paul

 

Hi Paul; yes I agree on that. Can't imagine the voltage has anything to do with it, and I still suspect moisture got into some electronics somewhere. Indeed very frustrating. But fingers crossed that this has solved itself now...

will let you know!
pim


QUOTE=ptjs1;2815771]Pim,

It's true that battery voltage is critical, particularly on newer Jags as regards, fault codes and warning lights. However, the XJS has never been as susceptible to that as the post-Canbus cars.

So, it could have contributed, but I think it unlikely,

I'm sure it's frustrating for you, but the more journeys you do without problems, the more I think it is likely that it was moisture in the plug / wires.

Good luck

Paul[/QUOTE]

 

Unfortunately; the limp mode and light came on again several times. Even one time when the car was not running but the contact was on; it came on after a few minutes. I cleared the code before that. voltage of the battery at that time was 12.25V

I measured the voltage of the battery after the engine ran, and is shut off, the voltage from the battery drops pretty fast. I measured the usage; and with the car closed, no interior or boot lights on, alarm on; it still uses around 0.15 amps. Is this normal? This morning when I started the battery voltage was around 10v; according to the meter in the car. It did start; and voltage raised pretty quick to 13.9 when car was running. With the batteries I had before; every few days I had to jump start the engine. Because I thought the batteries were not good anymore I didn't pay too much attention. I will let the car stay for a couple of days to see if the new battery runs flat from sitting in the car.



thanx
Pim

 

Pim,

First of all, if you want to know the voltage of the battery, do not ever rely on a reading from the voltmeter in a late XJS. It will be wrong and usually low. The only way to accurately know the voltage of the car is to measure it at the battery terminals in the boot with a multimeter.

IMO, you had more than 10v when you started it. I don't believe a 4 litre will turn and start with only 10v.

As regards, the current draw, you have to wait for a few mins after the alarm is set to know the real stable state draw. 150ma is too high in a stable state, so you have a problem somewhere.

Paul

 

This is true.

 

I believe you guys that the dash voltage meter is not accurate; but relatively; the hand showing the voltage was much lower than when the engine was running for a while. This lower reading would also explain the 150 mA draw that is happening with the car resting.the other readings I talked about were measured with a multimeter.

anyway; I will measure voltage after some time, and will start pulling fuses with multimeter attached. Old cars.. keep you busy! But fun anyway.

thanx pim

; QUOTE=Vee;2816256]This is true.[/QUOTE]

 

today I found out that my connected OBD2 wifi adapter draws 0,1A when connected, even when car is off and closed. so now the constant draw is 0.04A. I guess this is normal?
Also I noticed that the starter engine did have some trouble rotating after one night sleep (sounded a lot slower and hesitated a bit once, with the old adapter still attached). Voltage was 12.02V according to multimeter.

Still, 150 mA draw is about 1.8W, which is very little, is this enough to drain the battery overnight? as stated the battery is new. (74ah)
thanx, Pim