Hi can any body Help have had 1989 js conv 5.3 for the past 12 years never give me any troble till now. only us car in summer, been in garage past 5 months like it is every year, came to start it, started but packed in after about 10 seconds and would not start again, have changed sparkplugs, fuel getting to rail, can hear injetors clicking, good spark, and over 200psi, car cranks over ok after about 6 trys with the dashboard lights dim and car cranks slow and fires ones but stops any body got any ideas thanks Tony

 

You've covered a lot of bases already.

Check the connection at the Coolant Temp Sensor (behind LH thermostat). Loose/dirty/broken?

"Fuel getting to the rail" is encouraging but not guarantee of correct fuel pressure. Might be time to actually check fuel pressure.

Is the spark a strong blue-white color? Or a wimpy yellow-orange?

More later, perhaps.....I'm on my first sips of coffee


Cheers
DD

 

Hi Doug, have replaced coolant sens, if i lossen fuel railpipe and turn key petrol pressure fires all over roof, dont under stand it run fine before parking it up.

 

That could be 20 psi (way too low) or 70 psi (way too high).

Let's wait for other ideas but an actual fuel pressure test might be in your future. Correct pressure *does* matter !

Cheers
DD

 

O/K Doug ill try getting a pressure tester.

 

Hi Tony

Dashboard Lights Dim
Car Cranks Slow
After 6 Tries (Before it Cranks?)

To me it sounds like an Electrical Problem:

(1) Make sure the Battery is Fully Charged and hasn't run itself down by standing or being left connected, as even a small leak to earth can run a battery down or from the Car Alarm or Clock etc.

(2) Bad Earth: Check all the Earth Connections and make sure they are grounding, including those on the Closing Panel over the Top of the Rad, on the Left and Right hand side.

(3) 6 Tries before She Cranks: This Could be the 'Fusible Link' in the Boot/Trunk.

If you look at the bottom of the Photo you will see the Positive+ (Red Battery Lead Rubber Cover) If you follow that up:

You will see a couple of Connectors which are Clamped to the outside of this Lead with Cable Ties.

This is the 'Fusible Link' and well known for giving a Problem if the Battery is disturbed or this Lead moved.

So First Check the Connections of this 'Fusible Link'

While it 'MAY' Look Ok it 'May Not Be' so while a 'Mate' is Trying to Start her by Turning the Key.

Put a Hand on either side of the 'Fusible Link' and Flex this Lead between your Hands and move it around.

Then this 'may' hopefully solve your problem.



No Start or Engine Won't Turn Over?
Check the Leads on the 'Fusible Link' where they are Clamped to the Positive Lead with Cable Ties.

 

orangeblossom, its a new batteryand coil last week, car cranks over ok but after 5 or 6 times it dimms light fires and stops, battery fully charged, ill try wires tmw THANKS

 

Can you take a few voltage measurements and post back.

Battery voltage with ignition key off.

Battery voltage as you crank the car when the lights dim.

 

Hi Tony

Even if you have got a very small leak to Earth, you can very easily run that battery down in a day, it could even be something like your

Boot/Trunk light staying on when it is closed.

In fact I had a very similar problem, as my New Car battery would run down within a week as when I left the battery connected the car alarm

would go off.

And even though I had a switch which disconnected the horn, (which was only used when I had the Car locked up in the Garage) The battery

would just die, which is an absolute PIA when I wanted to use my Car.

So in order to overcome this, I fitted a Gadget called a 'Car Disconnect' which is basically a Master Switch to disconnect the Battery when the

Car is not in use.

Absolutely Amazing!

As I know that even being left un-started throughout the Winter She will always Start First Time.

About £4 on ebay and has to be one of the best things that I have ever bought.

Battery Isolator Switch Cut Off Disconnect Terminal Universal Car Van Boat 01 | eBay



Car Disconnect:
No more Flat Batteries Ebay/Amazon £4-£5
One of the Best Things I have ever bought.

Is your Car a Lucas or a Marelli knowing that may help to Solve your problem.

 

warrjon will test 2mw thanks

 

Best connector full stop is the "Nato Knochen" as it is called here refering to army vehicles for the NATO...



A battery switch which is hard to crack.

 

orangeblossom it lucas, firering order in book is: 1a 6b 5a 2b 3a 4b 6a 1b 2a 5b 4a 3b.

 

Hi Tony

Have you got Two Coils or just one?

I'm not too familiar with Lucas Cars, so if it isn't what I suggested, Greg and Grant will jump in.

Was She running OK before you changed the Plugs, or did the problem just come out of nowhere?

 

Hard to follow. Do I understand that...

When you engage the starter, the engine spins over normally but does not fire and start running. When you run the starter repeatedly it consistently spins over at a normal rate but does not fire and run. After 5-6 attempts spinning it like this, while spinning over, it will dim all dash illumination, immediately fire up and run for a few seconds then die.

 

Hi Tony

Something else you can try.

Down by the Right Hand Side Headlamp Nacelle at the Front of the Car is a Silver Box with a Plug and Socket in the Bottom.

Unplug the Silver Box and Take it out of the Car, then Thoroughly Clean the Plug and Socket before you put it back.

If the Plug and or the Socket is either Dirty or Corroded, then it Can play Havoc with the Firing of the Injectors.

Which was one of the things I had to do to get my own Car going, when we almost ran out of ideas.

For which I acknowledge all the help I got from Greg and Grant.

Its definitely worth a Punt, as this got my Car going!

The Photo is on my Marelli Car but the Lucas Setup is similar.



Resistor Pack on a Marelli XJS
A dirty Plug and Socket can play Havoc with the Injectors.
Similar setup on a Lucas Car.



Make sure the Plug and Socket on the Resistor Pack are Clean.
The Silver Box is located by the RHS Headlight Nacelle at the Front of the Car.

 

Pull a plug and see if it is wet. if it is not, then you may be looking at jammed shut injectors after the winter layoff. If it is wet, test that plug in the dark to see if there is a really strong blue spark across the electrodes, ask a helper to turn the starter while you hold the plug body against the engine (with insulated pliers)
Greg

 

JigJag, yes it cranks over only fires ones and just keeps cranking.

 

orangeblossom, had silver box off last week cleaned and refixed.

 

Greg, plugs wet, but when it fires its bunt off, i dont see how all 12 inj can be close plugs have a good spark and coil.

 

Hi Tony

After a long layup, I had Six Injectors all Sticking at once, so anything is possible.

Maybe its a problem with the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) on 'B' Bank.

Did you check the Fuel Delivery on the Engine Side of the FPR?

(Taking the usual precautions king lead removed from the Dizzy Fire Extinguisher etc)

Which was another reason why my Car wouldn't Start.