Nice looking engine bay you have there.

 

Hey folks thank you. I have not done a thread about this build yet. I have hundreds of photos of the car / motor / suspension as I disassembled it. Looking originally to build it back as stock and I actually did. But then I was having these nagging piddle issues with wiring and such and said enough. Example the rear seat area ( why all that leather for really no use ). Sooo let's make it more useful. Stereo and electronics. Now understand this is rev 1 things can change but overall we have shape that's required and placement of components. The wood you see will be covered in 1/8 foam then a combination of black leather and Alcantara. The opening will have some sort of door. up/down hydraulic piston of some sort. The compartment itself is cooled by two ( really sweet ) fans on the top deck covered by the old rear speaker grills. Feel free to ask ? I'll do my best to answer.
Matter a fact. Looking for wheels. I have 5 pristine starfish 15" don't want them. Need input on SUCCESSFUL PLUS SIZES no bull crap. Thanks Later

 

Oh sorry the last couple of pics. Are of the catalytic converters from an 1983 motor I picked up. Just be aware that when your girl starts to misbehave.

 

Love how you cleaned up that engine bay, can't wait for when you post about the build.

 

Nib
A lovely under bonnet job, and the instruments in the dash look very fine too, better than facelift, IMO.
How did you get the data to set the timing and fuel parameters on the Omex ECU please?
Greg

 

The folks at Omex sent me a startup calibration. They also sent the parameters for logging. So basically what's happening now is: Lap top comp connected to ECU. I've verified base timing with timing light cranking motor on starter. Start motor and bring to operating temp. Start log recording bring rpm slowly to 3000 and back to idle. Then I send log to Omex and they get back to me ( email ) and tell me where I'm at. Once we get calibration tuned then off to dyno for the fine tuning.
Also I contacted another company in England that installs the Omex ECU's in their xjs restorations ( KWE ). These folks were kind enough to send me their last map for one of their cars.
So at this point my car is learning and I'm trying to. The capabilities of this ECU are amazing and I can't thank the folks involved enough. My friend DOC has been a key stone in this process. If you go to the Omex web site you can down load the info about the 710 ( the one I'm running) and also the map and data software.

 

What / how would be the best way to start that post? ( not very good at this )

 

Gauges are from Speed hut. Nice quality and reasonable price. You can totally customize them also. Bezel style, color, gauge face, font. needle style. You can also have logos or writing on the face. I had JAGUAR written on my speedo and tach.

 

Hi NIB, great project. Why two air/fuel gauges? I've seen those Speedhut gauges before, they look great. John

 

One for each bank. Those were narrow band I am currently replacing them with wide band from Speed hut. This should allow the ECU to better manage fuel.

 

Interesting. I had thought about two water temp gauges, left and right banks.

 

Hey John is it fair to assume those gauges are yours?

 

Nib, sadly not mine. Just on my wish list. John

 

If any of you folks need parts or pictures let me know.

 

With the changes I've made my front end is approx. 2" higher than original. Has anyone found front springs that will lower the ride height some but not be super stiff? Also wheels 16" -17" -18" backspacing, offset, tire size anyone has had luck with.
Now to try and keep the front suspension from hunting all over.We have made some front sub frame mods which appear to be working very well on Docs xjs. The problem IMO and others is there is to much plushness to the car. I know that was the idea ( a gentlemen's GT ) But we want something a little more firm. If I want full sport than I'll drive my S2000.
So before we went full metal sub frame mounts we decided to try something a little more bolt on. The front ( round ) mount we decided to fill the voids. The rear we filled with a higher durometer material with excellent bonding characteristics. Docs been abusing these for 4-5 months and been quite happy with the improvement.

Thanks

 

My problem as well.

Have you removed the spacers under the springs? also you can add a spacer between the lower spring pan and wishbone.

I have 16x8 with 245 50-16 back and front.

Front offset is +19 and rear +33 these fit without rubbing.

 

Sorry if it's already been explained, but may I ask why both your cars are now sitting higher at the front? Is it from weight reduction? I've got the Gaz shocks and DB7 springs and my car now sits too high at the front (all the packing spacers have been removed, but still too high). The air con compressor and viscous fan have been removed, but I didn't think that would make much difference to the front ride height. I'm currently exploring the notion that it's too low at the back, which is forcing the front end up. Thanks

 

Possibly due to wrong springs. Like fitting V12 speings to an AJ16 model etc.

 

Incorrect or otherwise undesirable ride height after installing new springs is an almost constant issue....dating back years and years. Lots of frustration. If factory spec ride height (or close) is the goal, I'd avoiding replacing them unless absolutely required....like if a spring is actually broken. Then, if needed, get good used springs from a like model.

Just my measly two cents

Cheers
DD

 

There's an outfit in (I think) Australia selling lowering springs for Jags. "King Springs" or something like that? Not sure how stiff they are. They're on Ebay and (again, I think) they have some USA distributors.



Where did you get the material? Is there a special process involved?

Cheers
DD