Had this issue for about 4 months, when I first start the car the a/c is either blowing slightly warm or barely cooling. Drive a couple miles stop and turn off engine then restart and then it blows cold, I am told it is the compressor going bad. But after 4 months think it would have failed by now.
Anyone else have this issue?

 

Assuming you have no DTC codes, if it's me, I'd clean the Condenser coils and Radiator coils. A lot of dirt can accumulate there. Then assuming I had sufficient refrigerant, the next test to prove out a failing compressor requires the clutches compressor diagnostic tool and as far as I know, the tool is the only way to determine a failing compressor, but I don't have any direct experience with your issue. I would check the compressor before moving on the the evaporator valve.

 

I've had a similar issue since day one of ownership when my car had about 4,000 miles. It blows somewhat warm on start up and then within a minute or less the cold comes out. I do not need to restart the car. If I want to speed it up, I just lower the temp. Not an issue as I assume it just characteristic of the car. The A/C works just fine otherwise.

 

A vast majority of AC problems are due to low refrigerant. Have your level checked.

 

I had similar issues - would blow cold at rpm - low refrigerant was the cause.

 

I'd take it to a proper AC specialist. Dirty condenser usually causes issues AFTER it's been running for some time not the reverse. Most common cause of this condition's low refrigerant charge as suggested. Failing compressor would have issues at all times, not just in the beginning and there would be other symptoms.

 

Also had the same issue when I had acquired my XKR some 18 months ago. Had the refrigerant filled up, since then mo problems anymore.

 

Mine displayed very similar issues, had gas checked , already full and all correct. However, there were issues with pressures in the system.

Turned out to be the valve in the compressor body that controls the pressures between the high and low pipes. £400 all in the get it fixed last year some time. If the valve is not operating correctly the system gets a bit confused about what it's supposed to be doing.

New valve fitted, perfect cold air within seconds of starting the car, and the defrost starting working again to clear the screen on misted mornings.

 

System is full, has been doing this since I bought the car. I saw a TSB about a weak spring and according to jaguar dealer the compressor was replaced at 21k miles, currently has 49k.
Will clean the condenser, that does look a little dirty.

 

Have a look at this TSB - https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...94594-1020.pdf

This is the part I had replaced on mine when it was taking time to start cooling properly. The symptoms were all like low gas with it only cooling when engine revs were up whilst driving and then becoming warm and moist again when sitting in traffic. My system also wouldn't direct demist/defrost air up the windscreen when first started each day, I'd have to get driving and then after a few hundred yards the vents would open and air would be blown upward to the screen.
It steadily got worse over about a year until I had my air con man come and look , but the system was full, he couldn't get any more a/c gas in. He said there was something weird going on as the high and low pressure pipes were not pressured as he would expect them to be.
I did a load of googling and eventually found a few mentions of the A/C compressor Direct Pressure Sensing (DPS) valve although the symptoms of failure were not consistent; people were seeing different side effects but the one consistent effect was an underperforming A/C when everything obvious had already been checked.

 

common issue with the valve, not just Jaguar but most manufactures, mine is a little slow to start cooling but fine once it’s going, pretty sure it’s the valve, low refrigerant normally means poor cooling all the time, more apparent the hotter the ambient of course, faulty valve often gives no cooling, poor cooling or works perfectly, often needing a few rpms to get it going, or I’ve been quoted £650-£1000 to replace depending on which compressor I choose, you can just replace the valve but as it’s a difficult compressor to get at I think better replace the whole thing.