110F (43C) Ambient Temperatures
#1
110F (43C) Ambient Temperatures
Hi, I just bought a 2007 Mist Blue Jaguar XK Convertible. Black top. I had to sell my '54 Chevy show truck in order to get my wife to agree with the purchase. The Jag only has 23,000 miles and is in showroom condition throughout.
I would like to keep it looking good as long as possible. Is it going to be the wrong thing to drive it in 100F to 110F (37C to 43C) sunny weather? I know the dashes take a beating and shrink at times. Will a dash cover properly protect the dash? Or is it a combination of sun and heat that raises havoc with the dash? If the top is up which is black in color is there a problem keeping the cabin cool with the air conditioning? Should I just keep it in the garage when the temperature is over 100F (37C)?
I was willing to trade off having my beautiful '54 Chevy truck in order to enjoy this beautiful Arizona weather which is most of the year. I just don't want to do any damage to the car though. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
I would like to keep it looking good as long as possible. Is it going to be the wrong thing to drive it in 100F to 110F (37C to 43C) sunny weather? I know the dashes take a beating and shrink at times. Will a dash cover properly protect the dash? Or is it a combination of sun and heat that raises havoc with the dash? If the top is up which is black in color is there a problem keeping the cabin cool with the air conditioning? Should I just keep it in the garage when the temperature is over 100F (37C)?
I was willing to trade off having my beautiful '54 Chevy truck in order to enjoy this beautiful Arizona weather which is most of the year. I just don't want to do any damage to the car though. Any thoughts will be appreciated.
#2
I live in the less sunny northeast, but I say get the sunshade, get some leather conditioner with UV protection, and enjoy your car. I'd also get the windows tinted to the maximum allowed in your state, if you think it will look ok. I'll let others comment on the AC effectiveness in those temps.
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danveenstra (02-01-2017)
#3
I think it is a combination or luck, temperature and humidity and leaving the car sitting in the sun will not help. Not all leather dashes have failed, mine lasted 7 years before developing a silver dollar sized bubble near the center speaker grill but that was the only issue, no shrinkage and still well attached everywhere else. In my case, while humidity is high, the car rarely ever sat in the sun. The biggest issue I had was ALL of the suede panels fell apart last year and had to be replaced. I have also noted that Ambla (synthetic) interior XKs appear to hold up much better.
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danveenstra (02-01-2017)
#4
I use the Aerospace 303 protectant on all surfaces including my leather dash. It has UV resistance to help with avoiding damage.
I don't know how much you paid for the car, hopefully not too much, regardless I am not one to overly protect a vehicle by not driving it because of conditions. To me a dash cover is silly, similar to buying a couch and covering it in plastic to avoid wear. A beautiful leather dash and it is covered in carpet for no one to see. If you are looking to preserve the car for higher value when you sell it that may be a sound strategy.
Here is a thought, roll the dice on maintaining the dash, if it starts to have problems buy a cover all anyone will see is the dash carpet.
I don't know how much you paid for the car, hopefully not too much, regardless I am not one to overly protect a vehicle by not driving it because of conditions. To me a dash cover is silly, similar to buying a couch and covering it in plastic to avoid wear. A beautiful leather dash and it is covered in carpet for no one to see. If you are looking to preserve the car for higher value when you sell it that may be a sound strategy.
Here is a thought, roll the dice on maintaining the dash, if it starts to have problems buy a cover all anyone will see is the dash carpet.
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danveenstra (02-02-2017)
#5
There is available a completely transparent UV protective film for inside of windshield. I had it installed on my '07. Cost was about $115. I also use Aerospace 303 Protectant on dash every four months or so. Car is always garaged, except when traveling. Then I have a sunshield, which I use if parked in sun for over an hour or so.
So far no problems whatsoever with my dash leather.
So far no problems whatsoever with my dash leather.
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#6
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danveenstra (02-02-2017)
#7
Nope, no leather conditioner. My detailer used it on my former BMW seats when I first bought that car in 2009, I used it ever since and my leather was in fantastic shape. I have continued using 303 for all surfaces in the Jag.
So far my leather is supple and looking brand new. For the seats I did as he originally did, I generously spray the 303 on them and then spread it around with my hand and left to sit and works it's way into the leather. Then I come back in a while and wipe off the excess. It leaves behind a greaseless, satin sheen to the leather with the well known UV resistance that 303 brings to the table and is of so much use for those of us in sunny states. On the dash I liberally use my applicator pad to lay down a thick coat, let it sit, then wipe off after a bit.
There is much debate on the internet regarding leather in cars, coated vs uncoated, which treatment to use, saranwrap overnight, etc. I just do what is simple and has always worked for me!
So far my leather is supple and looking brand new. For the seats I did as he originally did, I generously spray the 303 on them and then spread it around with my hand and left to sit and works it's way into the leather. Then I come back in a while and wipe off the excess. It leaves behind a greaseless, satin sheen to the leather with the well known UV resistance that 303 brings to the table and is of so much use for those of us in sunny states. On the dash I liberally use my applicator pad to lay down a thick coat, let it sit, then wipe off after a bit.
There is much debate on the internet regarding leather in cars, coated vs uncoated, which treatment to use, saranwrap overnight, etc. I just do what is simple and has always worked for me!
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#8
I drive my Jaguars on business trips where I have to spend multi days away from a sun protected garage. In many areas of CA over 100F temps are common during the summer. For short stops, such as a restaurant visit, I always put on my windshield sun shield. For longer periods, including overnight, a full car cover goes on. I never had any problems with dash shrinkage or any sun damage.
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#10
My Wrangler is parked outside at all times, so I use a sunshade for that vehicle as it gets beat on day in and day out. Always a worthwhile measure if your car is parked outside for extended periods. I am not all about putting it up at every stop when in the Jeep.
Last edited by tampamark; 02-02-2017 at 01:46 PM.
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danveenstra (02-03-2017)
#11
I reside in La Quinta, CA full-time (near Palm Springs) and thus far have experienced as high as 123 degrees (and no that wasn't the daily record!). I have two Jaguars (one being an '11 XKR convertible and black to boot) and the a/c performs just fine "if" you are starting with a relatively "cool" car. My garage is air-conditioned for that purpose. Not unlike winter in cold parts of the country - where it takes a good long time to warm-up a cold interior - the same (in reverse) is true in the heat.
To help keep the car cool I use a custom windshield sun screen and I have tinted the windows with 35 level 3M.
I also use Aerospace 303 protectant for the convertible top which to date has kept the top looking "as new".
i have not used it on my interior surfaces - preferring to use more traditional leather conditioner instead (plus I like the smell).
To help keep the car cool I use a custom windshield sun screen and I have tinted the windows with 35 level 3M.
I also use Aerospace 303 protectant for the convertible top which to date has kept the top looking "as new".
i have not used it on my interior surfaces - preferring to use more traditional leather conditioner instead (plus I like the smell).
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danveenstra (02-03-2017)
#12
Quick note, the Aerospace product used for the top is NOT the same as the interior protectant. I use the Aerospace 303 Fabric Guard for the top, Aerospace 303 Protectant for the interior. I guess if you are using the Protectant on the top and it is working keep on, I am results driven and far from telling anyone they are doing what works that it is wrong!
As far as the AC, I live in Florida where it regular hits 98 or 99 degrees, not as hot but with very high humidity. So the AC has to work extremely hard to reduce heat and remove the moisture. I find the Jag system to be very good at cooling the car down quickly.
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#13
I previously tried the 303 Fabric Guard on a convertible top and found that it left an oily film which washed down onto my paint when hosing the car off. The 303 Protectant product works perfectly for my top as it absorbs into the material (no oily residue) and causes water to not absorb into fabric (like the top has a wax coating). I find the Protectant a much better fit for my exterior top application.
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#14
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#15
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danveenstra (02-04-2017)
#16
Thanks, Ceckman. I think I might follow your lead and use the Protectorant on the top. Maybe, though, not to begin.
I just spoke with the manufacture (GoldEagle.com) about their products and this is what they suggested:
On the leather their product number 30218 which is Automotive Leather 3 in 1 Complete Care. They said , yes, you can use the Automotive Protectorant (Product 30382) but you need to make certain the leather is clean before applying it. They said the Leather 3 in 1 can be used and it leaves the leather soft, different than the Protectorant. They said the 3 in 1 does not remove any dye or damage the leather with prolonged use. They told me the Protectorant will not remove dirt but will rather coat the dirt.
The convertible top can be cleaned with their product number 30571. It's their Tonneau Cover and Convertible Top Cleaner. It is supposed to work on both vinyl as well as material tops which we have on the Jaguars. Then, they suggested either of two product to coat the top. Both their Fabric Guard (30606) or their Marine Guard (30650).
With all of the input from everyone and information from this group I think I'm going to start off with:
1) 303's Product #30218, Automotive Leather 3 in 1 Complete Care for the interior
2) 303's Product #30571, Automotive Tonneau Cover & Convertible Top Cleaner and then finish the convertible top with 303's 30650 Fabric Guard.
Now, if I have problems with the Fabric Guard running off days later onto the paint, as Senior Member "Ceckman" experienced then I would use the 303 product number 30282 "Automotive Protectorant".
In my conversation with the rep of GoldEagle.com I was told there are possibilities as to why their product washed onto the paint after it was dry. They said:
1) There could have been a foreign product applied on the top previously which did not allow the 303 Fabric Guard to completely soak into the fabric
2) The 303 Fabric Guard should be lightly sprayed evenly over the entire top. Key words were LIGHTLY and EVENLY.
3) All paint surfaces should be protected from overspray of the Fabric Guard
Thank you all for your input. Appreciate you folks...................
I just spoke with the manufacture (GoldEagle.com) about their products and this is what they suggested:
On the leather their product number 30218 which is Automotive Leather 3 in 1 Complete Care. They said , yes, you can use the Automotive Protectorant (Product 30382) but you need to make certain the leather is clean before applying it. They said the Leather 3 in 1 can be used and it leaves the leather soft, different than the Protectorant. They said the 3 in 1 does not remove any dye or damage the leather with prolonged use. They told me the Protectorant will not remove dirt but will rather coat the dirt.
The convertible top can be cleaned with their product number 30571. It's their Tonneau Cover and Convertible Top Cleaner. It is supposed to work on both vinyl as well as material tops which we have on the Jaguars. Then, they suggested either of two product to coat the top. Both their Fabric Guard (30606) or their Marine Guard (30650).
With all of the input from everyone and information from this group I think I'm going to start off with:
1) 303's Product #30218, Automotive Leather 3 in 1 Complete Care for the interior
2) 303's Product #30571, Automotive Tonneau Cover & Convertible Top Cleaner and then finish the convertible top with 303's 30650 Fabric Guard.
Now, if I have problems with the Fabric Guard running off days later onto the paint, as Senior Member "Ceckman" experienced then I would use the 303 product number 30282 "Automotive Protectorant".
In my conversation with the rep of GoldEagle.com I was told there are possibilities as to why their product washed onto the paint after it was dry. They said:
1) There could have been a foreign product applied on the top previously which did not allow the 303 Fabric Guard to completely soak into the fabric
2) The 303 Fabric Guard should be lightly sprayed evenly over the entire top. Key words were LIGHTLY and EVENLY.
3) All paint surfaces should be protected from overspray of the Fabric Guard
Thank you all for your input. Appreciate you folks...................
Last edited by danveenstra; 02-03-2017 at 11:15 AM.
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Ceckman (02-04-2017)
#17
Well done, the Fabric Guard works great for many, I have used it for years on my previous BMW and now on my Jag. Here is a previous thread to further muddy the water. There is much debate on spray vs roll, personally the roller method to me overuses the product, I have done both and the results are the same.
I open the top and lay an old sheet on the front windsheild instead of masking for application, I find the drop cloth, then spray, much faster with great results. Once the sheet is down I close the top ~95% of the way, then hold the sheet up when I get to the sides and spray closer and more careful. For the back window I simply cut out a piece of cardboard and put it over the glass, spray away.
Oh yeah, if possible do it inside your garage. Any wind and the spray coverage is not so good.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...detail-111725/
I open the top and lay an old sheet on the front windsheild instead of masking for application, I find the drop cloth, then spray, much faster with great results. Once the sheet is down I close the top ~95% of the way, then hold the sheet up when I get to the sides and spray closer and more careful. For the back window I simply cut out a piece of cardboard and put it over the glass, spray away.
Oh yeah, if possible do it inside your garage. Any wind and the spray coverage is not so good.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...detail-111725/
Last edited by tampamark; 02-03-2017 at 11:43 AM.
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#18
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#19
#20
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