YEah I would pull the fuses and test via ohmmeter and as @guy pointed to, check grounding points. They can look good but once you remove the grounding points, many are corroded. I don't think running a new wire it the solution.

 

It would be quite peculiar that a wire catastrophically just "breaks" in a predominately static and untouched area.
FWIW, I have redone the grounds in the foot wells as my centre console was going crazy. The cause of the issue: dissimilar metals and the resulting galvanic corrosion.
If I didn't have to deal with these situations on my boat, I would never have guessed.

I concur with @Sean W . Running a parallel wire is our old school way of thinking of these things... when such systems were "simple". Unless of course you have diagnosed that it is in fact the hot wire.

LOL, caused myself to smile... one of my cars is +ve grounded. As the correct way of thinking of these things is electrons leave the -ve terminal and are attracted to the +ve. So "hot" is a perspective.
(all this before my morning coffee)

Cheers to all!

 

I had an old car that was positive grounded too. I think it was an old British Leyland Rover. I picked it up from a friend of mine in Denver in 1980. I don't recall the year of the car - 1970 maybe.

 

Life could be a lot more interesting dealing with a positive ground!

 

Get this... and a hardwood frame and aluminum heads... in 1951.

 

My brother in law spent a large part of his apprenticeship changing ing +ve ground cars with dynamo to -ve ground alternator set ups.

 

I converted all my British cars to negative ground..

very simple

 

Why?

 

Well, I was able to do a lot of disassembly today and one reason the cigar lighter socket didn't work is probably because it wasn't hooked up to anything. I looked until nighfall overtook me but didn't see the connection. Now, if I can find the CC06 connector I can hook it up and see if I hit pay dirt.

The irony is that I started on this quest to save time and install a portable carplay box, and now I think I would have probably saved time by getting the Mr.12Volt system and doing the display modifications.

 

CC006 is under the lighter and is the actual lighter connector -

 

For your 2010, the CarPlay install is a walk in the park.
I have videos in a recent thread on here that videos every step when you run into a questionable situation.

Hope you’ve sorted the 12v outlet issue with that wire tracing!

 

To install modern electronics........1980s version,,,,

simple...

 

Success! The right connector wasn't where it should be, but I found it over the side tucked into the sidewall of the center console. I pulled it out and it works! I have one working 12 volt socket now. I'll leave the accessory socket in the glove box for another day.

However, I still don't have a satisfactory carplay solution. I'll start a new thread for this new issue.

 

[QUOTE=billqs;2894793]Success! The right connector wasn't where it should be, but I found it over the side tucked into the sidewall of the center console. I pulled it out and it works! I have one working 12 volt socket now. I'll leave the accessory socket in the glove box for another day.

However, I still don't have a satisfactory carplay solution. I'll start a new thread for this new issue.[/QUOTE

Going to play Devils Advocate!!

Why was it disconnected in the 1st place??

Parasitic draw??

 

[QUOTE=HealeyJag;2894794]I don't know why. It would have been done by a previous owner. There is a parasitic draw without the lighter socket being plugged in; I think it was because a software update from a technical bulletin wasn't done. It has to be run every few days or be on a charger.

 

Glad it's sorted.

 

Thanks for your considerable help!