I am replacing the pump and I noticed the pipe going into the back of the pump is loose, is this normal?

 

If you're replacing the pump, you should be replacing the pipe too, it's a known wear item and costs around $10...

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/land-rover-engine-oil-cooler-pipe-eurospare-lr028136?ads_cmpid=352579519&ads_adid=22978218919& ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85231018 039&utm_term=&ads_targetid=aud-1020666087795la-327620319071&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_ medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=CjwKCAjww8mWBhABEiwAl6-2RaU7MzmX_0f_DSqWb7LqgL22vvg_yj5OB_BJLTZQY0zlq-VSbS_tqBoCSagQAvD_BwE

 

Thanks Jahummer and how do you get it out?

 

Its held in place by the tension on the rubber O ring. Just give it a good tug and like Jau said....replace it while you are in there. Make sure to note the position of the pipe before removing. There is a small 'wing' that points to the 7 O'clock position (approximate).

 

Make sure you get the correct part. And of course only purchase OEM parts from a Jaguar dealer. If you are replacing the water pump.. you should be replacing the 0 ring and this outlet pipe as well...Part # is...C2Z18658

 

Thanks everyone!!!
Original WP was replaced at 27k. was supposed to take a long trip next month, not sure I will with the XK.

 

Also do NOT run the pump without the cooling system fully vacuum filled. One of the things which lead to premature failure’s inadequate coolant level. The pump bearings may overheat quickly and the seal will be compromised.

 

The oil cooler pipe behind the waterpump must be turned counter clockwise to remove,
There are aluminum replacements for it, its a common failure point so I recommend the using aluminum pipe.

 

Also change the small overflow pipe that goes into the front of the waterpump,
its pretty annoying to change but most likely it will brake upon removal
from the old waterpump.

 

I am planning on currently having all of my plastic cooling lines and pipes replaced. My water pump was replaced by Jaguar recently with the most updated pump and I will not be replacing the newer water pump.
QUESTION...If I am not replacing the water pump, is it still absolutely necessary to have the cooling system vacuum filled? After asking my Indy who will be replacing all the cooling lines and pipes, he told me he doesn't vacuum fill the cooling system. Should I be concerned if I am not installing a new water pump or is vacuum filling more of a safety measure? Can all the air be removed from our cooling system safely without the use of a vacuum fill set up? Thanks all.

 

Why risk it. I wouldnt do it without vacuum. Its a cheap tool and takes seconds to do it.

 

Yes it MUST be done. One of the lower hoses I replaced I tried by filling via the reservoir. Engine temp went red within just a couple of minutes of idle. Took a full extra gallon of coolant via vacuum and a crazy amount of air came out.

 

I filled without a vacuum through the top of the S/C. It was very tedious, requiring me to stop the engine frequently to let it 'burp'. That being said, I was able to get the proper volume into the system and have never had to top off. That was 5000 miles ago.

Probably not feasible if you have a NA car.

 

I’ve done that on the 4.2 with no issue. The 5 liter’s a completely different cooling system.

 

. For whatever reason, my Indy feels it’s not necessary to vacuum fill. If he didn’t have the kit I’m sure it’s not a bid deal to obtain one. He’s been working on the older Jags and only Jags for 30 years. I’ve finally found him to have the shop I totally have confidence in to do a meticulous job while changing the many plastic parts. He mentioned how he fills the system but I don’t recall the details. I’ll need to speak with him again regarding the fill. Can it be done with bleeder valves etc, without vacuum? I really hate to start hunting for another shop. This guy has more Jags in his shop than I could count and many valuable XKEs. I mentioned my concern about hurting the water pump and he was confident it will work. Possibly he has his own method with burping and/or bleeding? I’m thinking that with the many water pumps and cooling lines replaced on our cars... how many shops are actually performing these repairs with the vacuum fill method? If necessary I’ll ask my Indy again. I know it should be no big deal from what I’ve observed with the vacuum fill method. Thanks everyone.

 

I can only speak with experience. I’ve replaced many cooling parts myself and on the 5 litre burping did not work, there’s just too many hoses, pipes, channels and pockets for air to get trapped. As I said using a vacuum, I managed another gallon of coolant and removed a LOT of air. On the 4.2 SC there was no need for vacuum, there’s a large plug on top of one of the manifolds and burping got all of the air out.

Perhaps he has another technique and may be he’s good at what he does. He’ll find out soon enough once the engine’s running after fill. If the reservoir’s full it overheats then there’s air somewhere and the coolant’s not circulating.

 

I've never needed to do a vacuum fill on my 5.0 N/A, you just open the bleed screws and squeeze the upper hose for a few minutes.
I've done this multiple times while changing coolant pipes.

You run the engine with the resevoir open to keep adding coolant as you burp it by pushing on the upper hose
and then pushing on the drivers side hose by the thermostat, make sure your bleed screw is open though.
the coolant level will keep going down and you add coolant until no more air is coming out.
i'd repeat this after a highway drive to ensure all air is out.

 

The 5 litre SC has 3 bleed screws but it didn't make any difference, coolant would fill the reservoir a few times and then just stay full, even with all 3 screws open and cap off, it was short a full gallon.

EDIT: The N/A may be different, I've not worked on that one.

 

So Jahammer. You’ve only worked on the 5.0 with the supercharger with the vacuum fill and not the NA 5.0 2010 which I’m referring to? Possibly that might be the difference in bleeding the system? Perhaps the NA 5.0 doesn’t require the vacuum method??

 

Workshop manual says both SC and NA refill via vacuum on 5.0.