have a 2007 xk ragtop. Third brake light located on spoiler is out. Is there a fuse for this. My understanding that it is LED assembly. Would all bulbs burn out at once. Also understand that I should get an indicator in the message center that light is out, is this true? How do you remove the unit for changing? Any help would be appreciated. Light appears to have stopped working after dealer replaced the battery, any connection possible?

 

Here is the procedure to remove third brake light assy. I hope this will help.





Exterior Lighting - High Mounted Stoplamp

Removal and Installation
Removal

1. Remove the liftgate lower trim panel.
For additional information, refer to: Liftgate Lower Trim Panel (501-05 Interior Trim and Ornamentation, Removal and Installation).



2. Disconnect the high mounted stoplamp electrical connector.


3. Remove the high mounted stoplamp.

• Carefully release the Torx bolt covers.

• Remove the 2 Torx bolts.

Installation

1. Install the high mounted stoplamp.

• Tighten the Torx bolts to 6 Nm (4 lb.ft).

• Install the Torx bolt covers.

2. Connect the high mounted stoplamp electrical connector.

3. Install the liftgate lower trim panel.
For additional information, refer to: Liftgate Lower Trim Panel (501-05 Interior Trim and Ornamentation, Removal and Installation).

 

Thanks george for your helps , this thread FAQed

 

I find it hard to believe the 3rd brake light would fail so soon...and right after a battery replacement? My guess is on a blown fuse, or a wire pulled from a harness.

let us know what you find.

 

The LED's can burn out individually, so all at once points to either an over voltage, or primary short in supply. The battery replacement sounds probable, though no shop will admit to that!

 

Just a quick caution - I found this out while retrofitting LEDs to inboard tail lamps. The current drive on connector CA129-pin 9 (that is the currrent drive for the CHMSL) is an output from the Aux Junction Box between rear seats.

This circuit is not fused, as it uses a CMOS overcurrent detection that "crowbars" the output and holds it to zero to prevent damage to current driver circuit in the case of a short.

So, it may look as though CHMSL is dead (all LEDS out), but it is because you have no output from CA129-9.

The only way I have found to reset the output is to disconnect positive battery terminal for 30 seconds....when you hook it back up, waalaa, CHMSL lights back up.

 

Success getting my 3rd brake lamp working again today.
Previously, I made sure that all wiring and connections were solid. Then I disconnected the battery to reset the ECU. None of those were the solution. So, I bought a replacement unit from Gaudin for a very reasonable price.
Removal and installation is a straightforward process (thanks to georgekale). However, the torx screws are "tamper resistant". So, unless you already have some or don't mind a second trip to the auto parts shop - go ahead and get a set of tamper resistant torx bits. The bit needed is a T-20.
This forum is great - I hope I can contribute back a little.

 

Hello...this post refers to "Liftgate Lower Trim Panel (501-05 Interior Trim and Ornamentation, Removal and Installation)". It appears to be a link and when I click on it I get a 'user denied' message (and I am signed on to this site). I could use this information if you can supply it. Thanks...Mark

 

This is a section, 501-05, of the X150 Workshop Manual, which can be purchased from various sources on the Internet, or you can subscribe to JLR Topix here: http://topix.landrover.jlrext.com/to...cle/lookupForm

If you plan on performing your own maintenance and repairs, it is a good idea to obtain the Workshop Manual.

 

I have just changed my high level brakelight on my Coupe as several LEDs had gone. ( The dealer was in denial because his plug in tool said it was still working and he couldn't be bothered to get out and look!) With the Coupe you just need to pull off the lowest couple of right hand poppers on the inside trim to access the connector. The security screws on the brakelight are torx pin head and yes you really need to look and check you have one before you start.

 

my torx do not fit these with a tiny pin in the middle. What tool do I need?

 

Google is your friend

 

I found it so funny, that somebody comes up with a 'security' torx design (let's keep people from removing our stuff), and the thieves were probably buying the bits 5 minutes later.

 

So true... or I found out , just use a small flathead, if the torque is not too tight.

 

When these came to being nobody had the right tools to defeat them but the tool industry soon caught up. The fastener that also came at the same time was the double head one where when you tightened it to required torque the head would break off and leave a smooth flat surface. These needed to be drilled out and they were a PITA.

 

Got the secure torx out fine, but now how do I remove the grommet that hold the wires ? Very hard to access but I guess you just work it out from either top or bottom?