Hello
I am going to do an overhaul, I would like some input from those who have done this before.

Scope
I plan to change the weak spots in the cooling system as they are aged, all in the name of preventative maintenance, the big belt and change the supercharger oil - because they are all in the same space so it makes sense to do them all at once


Water:
Header Tank
Water Pump
Thermostat - edited thanks gKubrak
Valley Hose - edited thanks gKubrak
Check all water pipes - edited thanks 80sRule

Supercharger:
Change Oil
Change Bearings - edited thanks 80sRule
Check carbon build up in cooler - edited thanks jackra_1
Tensioner Pulley - edited thanks Guy
SC Coolant Pump - edited thanks Guy


Other:
Change Serpentine Belt
Check all belts an pulleys (bearings)- edited thanks 80sRule
Check Duck Bill (because with the Supercharger off I believe I can easily reach it)
Change Power Steering Reservoir - edited thanks Guy
Change Power Steering Fluid - edited thanks Guy
Change o-ring for MAP Sensor - edited thanks 007XKR

BUY:
17mm Allen Key Socket - edited thanks 007XKR

READ:
Sticky Post: A JOURNEY INTO THE VALLEY - this forum - edited thanks 007XKR

WATCH:
2 videos on supercharge bearings etc overhaul - edited thanks Scottjh9:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7lY...ature=youtu.be

You Tube

Questions
As I'm about to undertake this:
What have I missed?
Anything I need to be aware of?
How long to do all of the above? I'm thinking probably a weekend (with all its distractions, so maybe 4 hours of actual work?)

Any help appreciated, hoping this can be a source of help for other people putting the info in 1 place. I will update this first post as people correct me / give me further information

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...enance-227403/

Section 5. My post lists all the parts you will need - lots of gaskets, etc. You will need to disconnect basically the entire harness just to move it up and out of the way.

You should replace the valley hoses also. No need to replace the thermostat housing, since it is metal.

With the fuel injectors out and painting + cleaning, took me about 16 hrs over a few weeks. But I took my time and was waiting on parts here and there.

Good luck!

 

Thank you, this is really helpful - already you have convinced me to move this to later in the year!!
I have edited the list to say thermostat - its the XKs that need the housing then I believe.
I said valley pipe in my list, which I guess is the same, I'll edit it correctly though

When I take things apart I am ocd on everything being perfect, so talk of painting and cleaning is something I will spend lots of time on (didn't know such things would present themselves), so again thanks for that heads up.

I have the motorbikes taking up my happy time until about June, so I will make this Jag work an autumn job I think - last thing I want is pressure to get things on the road with the spring just arriving. Seemed to spend half the summer under the Jag last year!! Not this time

 

I did this exact thing on my X308 XJR, which had the 4L SC motor. I'd plan on also replacing the norma connector kind of hardish coolant pipe/lines that run around the engine; they will be brittle, and on both my X100 and X308, cracked when I tried to remove (at least the header tank to tstat housing one).

If your supercharger isn't making any noises at all while inspecting while it is out, you could get away with just changing oil and popping it back in. The rear needle bearing packs are super nice to change while it is out though and cheap. If you have the snout off, consider doing the bearings and the coupler in there too. This is of course, if you have a press. You can buy kits with bearings and oil and couplers on ebay for these units for under $100.

I did some other coolant hoses; basically everything I could reach, but I chose to do this over 2 weekends so I could paint the intercoolers and such. Really it took only like 12 hours with all the inside SC work. I have also just swapped a SC for another, changed valley hoses and very little else and had it from start to finish in 5 hours before.

With this torn apart, also inspect the entire belt drive systems. Spin every pulley and listen and feel. By 100k, I had to change the supercharger tensioner and supercharger idler pulley bearings on my late X308 and current X100, but luckily the bearings are pretty cheap (under $10 each). I don't remember if the serpentine drive ones failed per se, but when doing the SC belt drives in both cars, I shotgunned the bearings on all 4 pulleys. You can absolutely do this with the SC on, but eh, if you have the time now, check and its nice that if you're doing the WP, you are right near here anyway!

 

Check the charge coolers fror soft carbon build up blocking the cooling matrix.

 

Make sure you have the workshop manual handy - there are a lot of different torque specs that you'll need to pay attention to.

Verify that all the parts match up to your VIN.

I did not replace the o-ring for the MAP sensor because mine was in good shape, but it is recommended. DO take the time to take off the wipers, cowl, cabin filter housing, fake firewall. It seems excessive, but you need these out of the way for access to remove the throttle body elbow. A thorough cleaning of the TB is likely warranted. You'll also want a 17mm allen wrench for the plug on top of your SC.

You are right about having access to the duck bill. With all those parts out of the way, you can just reach in and feel it (or the lack of it - mine had already been cut off).

This project can be done in a weekend if you have all of the parts. The work is very basic, but getting access to the work is challenging. The sticky 'a journey into the valley' is the guide I used. If you have ham hocks for hands like I do, you might want to enlist the help of a friend to help with a couple of these bolts.

 

Would suggest to get my thermostat it eliminates the rubber which is a major failure point, And it's also 10° lower and helps with cooling some.

 

You do not need to do this to get the elbow out with the egr still attached to the elbow. While it is fiddly, it is certainly doable.

 

I also changed the tensioner pulley as well as the others. Flushed the cooling system. Others have me thinking I should have changed the supercharger coolant pump. I didn’t as it has never given me problems.

While up there, change the power steering reservoir and change that fluid too? I was completely surprised by the black ooze in that system.

 

This is really helpful, thank you. I will check every coolant hose I can get my hands on, and I will change all the bearings too. I will buy a bearing press, and taking the nose off is an easy 30 minutes so I will do that too. The more access the better, so I like to remove everything whenever possible. This kind of thing is hobby stuff for me, so taking stuff apart and making it all perfect is my happy place, so I will take note of everything you have said when I start on this job.
Thank you

 

I will do that, thank you

 

Again more really helpful information, thank you. I will go for the items you have mentioned because I like good access, and like to check everything over / grease/ recondition etc.
I have added said tool and o ring to the my list on the first post.
Pleased about the duck bill confirmation - this job haunts me though I'm sure it has been done, it just seems like a proper pain in the **** - be nice to easily access and kill it once and for all.

 

Have you developed a different thermostat? I presume it is an improvement over original - what's the story behind it? How much to post to the UK?

 

Thank you. I had the power steering fluid as a separate job, but by the sounds of it makes sense to do it all in one - I have added it to my list, really helpful.

 

Yes. I was said , it's 10 degrees lower and iliminates the rubber surround which is a failure point.
Sent you pm

 

"DO take the time to take off the wipers, cowl, cabin filter housing, fake firewall."

Regarding the fake firewall, has anybody R&R'd the section around the cabin air filter (LHD)? It looks like it should be fairly straight forward, but would like to know if there are any oddities about it before I start.

 

Your inbox is full apparently, I'm trying to pm you

 

fxdwg, I did remove that entire housing. It is tight, but nothing too tricky about it. It seems like I had to have the coolant overflow tank out of the way first.

 

Cleared some skype instead to SeekerAlex or email truesownow@gmail.com

 

I've just messaged you (sorry only just seen your post today)