I could be wrong and have been in the past but I would assume that Jaguar/LR handle their TSB or problems individually similar to other car manufacturers. I would have expected either a separate or join release TSB of the problem. I know that Toyota has a different release of TSB related issues then the Lexus division. Just my thoughts here.

 

This is correct... Replace it all!!!
1- timing chain tensioners, guides, and the chain itself (startup chatter)
2- all 4 actuators (potentially if constant tick at idle)

100% perfect now and this was the misery of my existence lol

 

When they dropped my engine to replace the actuator, timing chain, and timing chain tensioners/guides (second time on latter), they noted my water pump leaking (second time on that in less than a year as well....).

The frustration was epic... Thank God fixed under original Manu warranty.... My question is would a jaguar extended warranty cover it?! Considering it's not just cosmetic I'd certainly question the insurer if they would rather fix a chain or a damaged engine?!?

 

Someone said Jaguar addressed this issue btw 2012 and 2013. Is that true and is there any documentation, or vin cutoff at which point newly designed parts were used in the builds? I would naturally like to confirm my 2013 XKR isn't going to spill it's guts all over the freeway. Vin: B49666, built between July 11 and 25 2012.
Thanks in advance for any info.

 

I also would like to know by S/N is B49488. 178 vehicles older than yours and also built in July 2012.

 

The parts manual lists three tensioners, the first one covered up to VIN B49165, the second from B49166 to B52040 and the last one from VIN B52041.

That part (C2Z28428) still seems to be the latest version.

 

Question is: do the later tensioners (which we're assuming are an improvement) fit the earlier engines?

 

They do! My techs told me they fitted the last version of the chain and tensioners to my 12 XKR this last winter when all that was changed out. Still sounds like a brand new XKR with 36000 miles since that time!

 

*thumbs up*

I hope they fit even earlier 5.0s too. Mine has the original tensioner type.

 

My 5.0 has 80,000 miles and has had zero problems other than a water pump & coolant crossover tube. I change the oil every 7500 miles with jaguar Castrol oil. (Buy it at the dealer for $9.00 quart and change it myself).

When a timing chain stretches, the cam chain sprockets are usually worn too. So putting a new chain on worn sprockets will result in a shorter timing chain life. So you need to inspect the teeth profiles on the sprockets and look for wear. You should also replace the timing chain plastic chain guides. More expensive in parts, but labor is the major cost of replacing a timing chain.

 

Yeowza, that's like 200 miles per day, every day.

 

An old thread, I know, but I thought this video posted on the XF forum was interesting, especially as I have just bought a 5.0 litre XKR:


Something to check for before I hand over the balance for the car in just over a week.

 

Sorry for bringing up an old thread but mine has the warm tick, so probably actuators, but which actuators are these?

Any advice welcome.

Simon

 

Not 100% sure what the earlier posts refer to - possibly the variable valve timing actuators.

 

Mine has the tick or "sewing machine" sound but I thought it had to do with the DI, now I'm concerned that it is T/C & tensioners! I have not noticed any performance related or code issues yet but do see that fuel enconomy number is getting lower. Unfortunate for me though, warranty has long since passed so I'm on my own with this.

I'm not concerned with digging into a front end rebuild but wonder if anyone has attempted chain and tensioner replacement DIY? If so, perhaps they could post photos or pointers on what to watch for in the effort.

I would anticipate that while digging into the the front end I'd change the water pump to the latest version (if not already there) just to have that out of the way too.

 

Motoring through the web on this subject, it appears that the timing chains themselves to not wear/stretch abnormally.
My own experience is with motorcycle chain wear. As motorcycle chains wear, the link connecting pins (sic) themselves seem to wear from lack of internal lubrication and "thin", thus causing chain "stretch" or materially lengthen. The actual metal does not itself "stretch." A lengthened chain does not quite "fit" the drive sprockets, causing wear to the sprockets, which is evidenced by subtle tooth narrowing. The usual "test" for excessive motorcycle chain wear it to try to lift the chain from the sprocket teeth with one's fingers. If the chain is "snug", then it is probably not worn.

 

I dont think you have any problem.
The guys who got to the problem stage had far more pronounced sounds.

If you remember the engine flush and injector cleaning trick, do that it cannot hurt.
This time there is something more aggressive available, CRC (1-tank) run 3 bottles, just keep an eye on the oil level. Or simply remove 1/2 quart before starting.
Then lubegard engine flush- I use this on every oil change anyway, gets every last bit of sludge out. (essentially breaks down oil) cant believe this is not widely know. However, now there are 6 brands offering the same thing, including Ravenol, so I suppose it is gaining popularity.

What's the service story on your car, was the oil changed at dealership by previous owner? It may hold some clue, the chain does not wear that bad with the prescribed oil nor do the tensioners get clogged with soot sludge. Which I believe wholeheartedly to be the only thing that can possibly fail with them. A member here pointed out that the teeth on ratchet mechanism can wear, yes, but at 20,000 miles?

One of these days we can meet in Atlanta or thereabouts and compare sounds. I go there once a year. (p.s. got any need for darkroom equip and supplies, giving it up sadly)

 

Thanks Q&C. After a bit more research I'm realizing I probably was just having a senior moment and the sounds I was imagining in this thread is not what I have encountered. (BTW, the wife says she thinks my mileage is because of my foot) Chain and tensioner failure sounds are unually less repetitive than what I'm hearing and more like thumps or cold knocks. So I think you are correct and not a worry in my case. I remember the Ford 4.6 encountered a campaign over failing tensioners caused by a supplier issue but that was well before this Jag engine era. You would think I'd remember what the sounds were from those failures, thus my senior moment!
I followed your suggestion earlier using Lubegard and now ensure I use prescribed engine oil. I wish I could be sure the PO followed that program but that just remains a question in my mind.
Better than an ATL meet would be to take the drive up NE GA for some curved road touring! Wish I could help with the equipment but I jumped to digital many moons ago and have since unloaded the messy stuff myself. I love to see fellow shutter enthusiasts work, if you get a chance send me a PM with some of yours!

 

Hi,

After a bit more looking it is the VVT solenoids on the front of the motor i was thinking about, they are very simple to replace but does anyone know of a way to test these before replacing them?

My motor is pretty quiet at cold start-up with no rattle but once its warm (after 30 seconds or so of running) it makes a right racket. Jaguar have just quoted me £5,000 to fix so would like to investigate the easy(ier!) stuff first.

Edit...

I have just whipped them out and all 4 behave in the same way, apply 12v across the terminals and teh plunger comes out, can push it back inwith your finger even with 12v applied but is reasonably stiff.

looks like tensioners.....ouch.

 

just wondering if anyone with a low mileage engine can verify if you had any slack at all. Pushing down on my chain I did not get much deflection but pulling up from inside with my finger I had a slight bit, not a lot. Is that a concern? i thought the system is directional and allows some slack