So are you saying the 2010-2011 AJV8 engines are more reliable than the 2012 and up?

 

since the topic of this thread is so serious and people might find it while searching for ticking noises, just thought i would point out that virtually every IC engine will make a tick when the lifters are dry or gunked up a bit. this is not a good thing obviously but it's hardly the end of the world when it first begins. the most common and benign cause is having let the car sit too long (weeks/months) and they're dry. this kind of tick will go away in a few seconds (to a minute) even if the oil is in really bad condition as the pump builds pressure and lubricates the top end of the engine. in theory no significant damage is done. however.

it can also happen to an engine that simply doesn't have enough oil in it, or one that runs with old/dirty oil in it too often and is now gunked up, or, lastly, that has been run hard enough while gunked up enough that permanent damage has finally been done to the camshaft lobes and/or lifters. on our 5.0's with their dual profiles, i would basically never suspect this latter situation was evidence of damage to the lobes, its far more likely to be damage to the lifters, but i can see no reason why that should be ruled out completely.

remain calm, move your jaguar to a flat surface and turn it off, let it sit the required ten minutes or so, and use the e-dipstick. if you are truly nervous, remove some engine oil (before topping off, if that's all it appears to need), look for metal flake with a bright light, and have it analyzed.

 

I think mine was making that same noise.But when i put mine at the dealership cause i messed up the converters by putting racing fuel in it,they fixed everything and it no longer makes this noise.

 

Would anybody know for certain that all these 5.0 super charge engine blocks are the same throughout the years

 

I heard they revised the timing chain tensioners on the 2013 5.0 models.So if you got a 2013 model or up,you're good!Your engine should never give you any problems unless you were doing uncalled for stuff like me with the racing gas.Even though your gas tank says 91+ up gas on it,don't go adding 112 cauae it will SERIOUSLY destroy your jag,not kidding.

 

Q&C was a very knowledgeable member on here offering very good advice before being chased of by quite frankly pests . We know who you are . Do run a few bottles of techron treatment through your car after you do an oil change then after a 1,000 miles do another oil change it will help vastly, did on mine , another tip once starting the engine after 10 seconds hold your foot on gass pedal for 2 mins ticking should be gone , live and learn

 

Nobody should let people get to them cause at the end of the day,no one pays your bills but you.Men have made the ultimate sacrifice for people to enjoy freedom and nobody should be able to take that from any one or feel that others have more rights than you do.I even heard internet bullies can get sued now if they want to come at others with defamation and end up like that lady on Cardi b case.But you right,i start putting a lot of gas treatment in my car and it makes it run smoother restores horsepower.But that ticking noise that it makes,i found out that comes from the high pressure fuel injectors.So it's no biggie and it's not your engine going bad for anybody who think that's what the weird noise is

 

my fault for not responding in such a long time.Idk if i got the email or it went to my spam maybe.But no, i sort of found out the 2013+up models are better and have superior 5.0 engines than the earlier years

 

Arrrgh. Anyone have a similar manual or link for the 97 4.0 engine? I have to change the timing chain tensioners.

 

You’ll find the answer to this on the forums that deal with models using the 4.0 engine: the X300/X308 (XJ8) forum, and the X100 (XK8) forum.

 

There's a stickies in the x150 forum , the 4.0 is slightly different in a very good way as you do not need to remove any of the auxiliary as they are bolted to the block as opposed to the 4.2 which is bolted to block & timing case . If you get stuck on anything feel free to message me

 

Thanks Steve. I've bookmarked this page.

 

Hi all,

As more of these cars get up in mileage and the timing chain and its attending parts (tensioners, guides, sprockets, et al) start to run into problems, I wonder if this is something that could be handled under an extended warranty for far less than the out of pocket cost?

My thought comes from this related post in the late model XJ forums, which use the same 5.0 engine: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-done-214277/

So, we know that Assurant provides extended warranty coverage, and that they covered this cost, and that they get a discount wholesale rate, which is less than 50% of having an independent or Jaguar dealer doing it for you without a warranty. That's a huge savings!

So I started looking for some aftermarket warranties, and came across a comparison of a couple of different options, looking at each provider's most expensive, most comprehensive plan: https://www.motor1.com/reviews/38074...ce-vs-carchex/

Pulling up Endurance's Supreme sample contract (here) the list of things not covered is pretty comprehensive, but the exclusions list doesn't appear to include the timing chains and the parts around them:

It also notes that this coverage specifically applies to "Breakdowns" and excludes "when a Breakdown has not occurred" as well as noting that "any part that a repair facility or manufacturer recommends or requires that it be replaced or repaired, updated, and is not a covered mechanical Breakdown, is Your responsibility and expense." which seems to preclude doing preventative work to address the chains and tensioners prior to outright failure.

Except that their definition of a Breakdown is as follows: The bolding emphasis in the last sentence is mine - it seems like the chains and tensioners would be considered to be outside the manufacturer's tolerances when they get out of spec, even if they haven't outright failed yet. In that case, this seems like the chains and tensioners may be able to be replaced early into the problem, prior to outright failure.

I'd welcome anyone else to review the sample contract I linked and see if you agree with my perspective or if you find something I've overlooked. This isn't the only option out there, so if this one doesn't work, we could look at others and see what the coverage is.

 

I think you are better off putting the warranty money aside, and if nothing bad happens consider it a well earned bonus. Getting the warranty company to pay for the timing chain guides before they fail might be difficult. You might need to wait until you get a timing related fault code, and I still wouldn't trust the warranty company because they have final say in all coverage. If you don't have any issues now, I'd say do regular oil changes with spec oil, don't rev the engine when its cold, and enjoy the car instead of worrying about a possible problem that you may never have.

 

That's the gamble, and a big one at that. I think that these numerous threads have established that the timing chain tensioners are a very frequent failure item, such to the degree that JLR issued a TSB for the very same engine on the LR side of the house. As others have pointed out, this is an issue that extends beyond just JLR to other makes as well, which means you should expect to have to do the work at some point in the life of the car. Same with the supercharger nose cone in the 5.0 XKRs. I would consider these as required maintenance the same as the clutch in an F1 transmission car and the belts in any other car - with Ferrari you know that the belts will be due every so often and it will run you ~$5,000 dollars or so, so you factor it into the cost of ownership. If you're an owner who isn't anticipating these items and attending to them, then in my mind, you're being a bit naive and irresponsible in your ownership. Some people may escape these issues, but there's a greater-than-even likelihood you'll experience it as the mileage goes up. It's a design issue that appears to occur regardless of use or driving style. I spoke to two different Jaguar specialists and they're both very familiar with it and said it usually occurs in the 80K+ range, but that it's almost a guarantee there. One of them also said that garage-queening these cars is actually counter-productive because of the way the mechanisms work - with regular use the onset is gradual and can be detected early, but with limited use, you can run into the problem seemingly out of the blue.

Given the near-certainty of this issue (which, again, seems pretty well documented across the forum and media as well as Jaguar shops), then you have a handful of choices:

1. Pay the full costs when the issue occurs - I've seen quotes for $8,500-$,11,300 the Jaguar independents, and that other thread I linked noted the labor was ~15 hours. You do the math on that
2. Buy the most expensive warranty service you can get at ~$4,500 or so and save 60% of the cost and get peace of mind if/when coverage is used
3. Sell the car before that point and the deferred maintenance goes to someone else
   1. If you're lucky, it goes to someone who is aware of the issue and expects to have to do this, otherwise you're providing a lot of pain to someone else with a nuked engine shortly into their ownership
4. Let it nuke the engine, deal with the costs then - most likely, scrap the car (which especially sucks if you have a note on it) or replace the engine, which is more expensive than doing the work up front

Based on the options, the most cost effective one is to try to find a warranty service that will cover it (again, like the scenario I linked to).

​​​​​​​You're right, getting warranty services to pay out is tricky - that's why I looked into the coverages of these and posted here, with a request to anyone else to review and help me find any loopholes we should be concerned with. Otherwise, we're all in a very expensive, very tricky place without other good solutions.

 

Again, it's only cost effective *if* the problem occurs on your car, and the insurance covers it. Nobody knows the % of engines that suffered failures, the mileage that it occured, or how well the car was maintained (oil changes) . Part of the calculation for me also involves how many miles I put on the car. For me the XK is a weekend car that I don't use for frequent short trips... so I am personally not that worried. I just want to add, when I purchased my XK six years ago, I decided to purchase a 4 year warranty from my dealer as well. In that time, i had 2 issues. A wheel height sensor had a wire break ( a simple wire repair fixed it and was below deductible) , and a rodent chewed through the oil level sensor wire (not a defect so not covered). In the end, it comes down to your peace of mind... so if want to get coverage do it. Maybe it will cover other issues that occur like fuel injectors or coolant hoses etc and if you are lucky (or unlucky depending on your pov) it will be worth it.

 

I attempted to do this when I pulled my timing components during removal of my motor. I have already replaced the Timing back in January and I did that last little bit of significant force to extend the tensioner when I installed them. Now it just won’t go back in. I take it once that’s done there’s no reusing that tensioner set?

 

I'm not familiar with the exact model but these tensioner usually have a spring inside and a non-return valve of some kind on the oil feed. Usually the oil will bleed out under pressure and the piston can be pushed back. If it is the oil which is not bleeding out then I wonder whether the piston can be pulled out and the oil poured out before re-inserting the piston?

Richard

 

Piston has to be fully extended before it can be returned to start position.

 

Does oil viscosity affect chain noise on cold start?

wondering if I should switch to 0W-20 from 5W-20 to reduce cold start chain noise.
I have done a oil flush recently, no changes from that.