Got it. And the J-B weld.

 

@KurtC
Do you recall if when the cotter pin was installed the line was under tension?
It is enough tension to pull whole plastic arm back about a quarter inch. Bending plastic seems no bueno.

 

@Circumnavigator Yes, that is what I remember. I'm quite certain that I had to pull the string out some when sliding the cotter pin through. I think that way the door comes down slowly from the very start of opening the door.

 

Gracias! Ok, starting reinstall. I'll update original Day 2 post when it is complete.

 

Work day (seems I’m the only one here not retired) so only an hour or two spread out.

Cleaned some bugs off the windshield and front bumper with a microfiber shammy.

Setting up her first date with the local Jag Indy specialist (JLR only shop) this week.
Spoke with one of their guys on the phone a good bit.

Asked if in some cases I can source my own parts.
His official answer was “If we can’t source it from our partner, yes.”
I pushed a bit more and mentioned Stuart’s full suspension set that was around $1400. The screen shot he loves to share. Retail or the shop’s source would be upwards of $3k.
Seems like in those cases I’ll be fine.

They have full SDD, TOPIx subscription and engineering mode to enable AUX and Accessory USB Unit so if I install JagAux or Mr12Volt I’m already set.

I did read through the AUX instructions on the JagAUX webpage and I have to say, this part scares the hell out of me:


Like what?? Mine is B208xx. But the instructions just continue through it to completion.
So I guess it is just some random warning the works through in the process.

 

I do see that warning every time I go into the configuration files but since my VIN falls outside the range it has not affected me. It appears your VIN is within the affected range, but the warning does say that SDD will guide the technician in the correct procedure to overcome the issue. Obviously, there are "Jaguar Forums" members that have VINs in this range and have experienced what happens. Hopefully, one of them will weigh in on this issue.

I would think your independent technician will have experienced this and could tell you about it ahead of time. Then, when you have them enable AUX and the USB Accessory, watch what they do so you'll know the correct procedure for when you get your own SDD setup. It must not be that big of a deal since the workaround is built into SDD; however, it would make me have second thoughts to go through it the first time without an experienced user.

 

Day 4 was yesterday.

Given the coolant leak and other things, I’m still too tense when driving to totally enjoy her (still unnamed).

So I ordered the Veepeak OBD reader which arrives today and downloaded the Car Scanner ELM app.
(I have iOS)

Also was about to buy a set of 3T stands and Jack for about 200 bucks from good ole Harbor Freight.
Checked FB marketplace and lucked into a new listing.
$80 for all three, gently used but look new.
Pick those up this afternoon.
Update: Sold me a bum jack. But being the MacGuyver I am, I threw (strong word it’s 70lbs) it on the bench. Checked the hydraulic fluid, decent. Turned the gear that opens and closes the valve, partially seized. Took care of business and works like a charm.
Craftsman for the win.

Got bored last night and removed the rear armrest and cover for the fuse panel. Just to look around.
Prev owner had removed F19 and said he had no idea where it was. No worries, there are extras.
Look down and there is a little 10A that fell between the seat and armrest. Put it back in.
The manual top Allen key was still in its spot as well as the fuse puller and neither looked like they’d ever been out. Nice.

However, one of the white clips that holds the armrest down was bent to hell. Guess I’ll need to find a bag of those.

Went on a smoke run for the wife and I and for the first time in a week, from a dead stop, put it to the floor pulling out onto the main road.
Wow. Rear wheels tried going sideways, so I let up.
Remembering my overpriced Michelin Sports have a year left at best, decided not to do that again until they are replaced.

Moved the suction cup phone mount further down and shortened it so the phone hovers 1/2” above the dash and doesn’t touch when horizontal or vertical.
(I have the big iPhone)
Looks ok for using Maps, but looks dumb when upright. But at least it is LoS so I’m not looking away while driving.
Will be better once I have the gauges displayed on it.
I’ll post pics once it is all set up and if needed I’ve found the right PIDs for what I want to see.
* I found the excel someone posted, but that’s MY 2010+

 

@Circumnavigator , same for me. I purchased these ( ) from Amazon and they seem to work well. They also worked well for the liftgate’s felt-covered lower trim panel (the panel that has the grab handle in it).

 

Thanks, just grabbed a 20 pack for $6. I’m sure I’ll break a few more in my adventures.

Me no have those. Convertible.

 

Circumnavigator, It's great that you are able to do much of the work on your own, as this will save you lots of bucks as well as get yourself familiar with the car. If I could give you a suggestion.... Try to address any cooling issues you might have as those can be detrimental to your car's engine and there are parts that can fail without warning, possibly being quite serious. Once you have those sorted, the rest should not be as much of a concern. Good luck.

 

Superior in nearly every way. Only problem is sometimes access, but if you can't access it with this, you'd be hard pressed to safely access whatever it is with a torch.

100% disagree. Youtube, this forum, ChatGPT, basic mechanical aptitude, and wherewithal is all you need. Sure, you'd gain some knowledge, but you'd pay for it, in both time and money, and mechanical ability learned outside of context is useless in the long run. In other words, learn while doing at the point of doing it and you will retain better. Also, this job isn't complex just takes some effort and tricks to deal with stubborn bolts.

This was exactly what I was thinking. For me and my projects, I get the temptation for wanting to fix the cosmetics first as it is often low hanging fruit, but I always do motor, suspension, cosmetics in that order. Don't sit on mounting coolant issues or repairing any known problem issues. Coolant can make you go from happy to blown motor quicker than you can get pulled over sometimes, depending on where you are when it blows.

 

@Circumnavigator , Isn't tinkering the best!
Well done documenting your journey.

 

Thanks! And thank you to @farm-jag as well.
In 10 years I’ve fixed a dryer, fridge ice maker, things like that.
Haven’t touched a car outside of filters in over 20 years.

Here is my logic for now:
If I can fix it without breaking something else, I’ll do it.
Example is if I need to remove a bunch of hoses or other things to get to what I’m fixing, no bueno yet.
Down the road, sure. As I get more comfortable.

But even removing the expansion tank to play with the hose that is the obvious leak seems to require a coolant drain/refill or at the very least draining the tank and attached hoses so coolant doesn’t leak all over the engine. Then the risk of air getting into the system.
I know someone who has done it and is comfortable will say “…when you refill just burp the system until the air is out…” and such. But I am very skittish only a week into the journey to risk doing something that ends up being a $1200 bill at the indie shop + a tow.

I’ve watched enough vids and read enough threads and had my GPT scan and summarize steps to know the terminology and steps.
But taking that and going hands on with zero experience is a leap of faith. Heck I don’t even have a torque wrench yet. Just got a jack and stands to start crawling underneath and looking around.
Ordered some pads for the stands and the stinking jack won’t fit under the car with the saddle on, so need a pad for that to prevent dmg or wiggling.

If there was ever a novice here who will learn slowly until I have the confidence to go ***** in, I’m it.

I do so appreciate everyone’s patience with me.

 

Chatgpt is not quite ready for prime time unless you spend quite a bit of time verifying its statements...after all it is summing the good and the bad info out there.
WJ

 

Ah, but any tool requires a proper understanding of how to use it appropriately, no? So I agree with you but a hammer in the hand of a novice can cause far more damage than in the hand of someone experienced. No different here.

 

agreed
wj

 

And ​​​​@farm-jag

Both great points.

I absolutely want to DIY as much as I can.
At the same time, I don’t want to do more harm than good.
So I will take it slow.
At the moment I have 2 backup vehicles, but I also don’t want to turn a $200 DIY into a $2000 shop visit.
so I will go slow for now.
The small coolant leak at the expansion tank is the priority. I’ll let the shop sort that out.
Bushings? Probably harmless for me to do it.
Engine/Trans mounts? I’ll buy the parts, shop puts them in.
you get the gist.

 

Day… awe hell who knows at this point.


Got her back on stands, but higher this time.
Much more wiggle room.

**Coolant expansion hose leak**
99% sure the only leak is where the fat hose connects to the nipple top inside edge.
Very tiny bit to the touch when sitting overnight, just under the work clamp.
Received my set of mixed size worm clamps at 5pm and she was up on stands, so tomorrow it is.

**Front passenger wheel/well**
Like Magellan, I’m still exploring. Removed the front passenger wheel. Yeah thought my new soft sided sockets didn’t fit. Whelp, 20” wheels are 21mm not 19. Doh!
Got the wheel off, damn they’re heavy. And can’t find the date code on the Michelin sports. If I did, last two numbers were 15!! Not good.
Cleaned off the Alcon caliper, used a wire brush on the hub a tiny bit.
Opened the liner, removed the air filter on that side and looks good for now. Finicky little turd to get back in. Found OEM for $36/ea free shipping. Will order soon as PO said he did them 18k miles ago.
Put the wheel back, lowered and tightened to 92nm (Correction, thanks Kurt!, 92ft-lbs) which I think I read here somewhere.

Once on the ground, cleaned up and tidied up the engine bay.
Done for the day.

PS - Either my floor jack sucks or floor jacks just suck. Especially when one side of the car is against the wall with 2.5ft of clearance. Dozens of mini pumps. <insert joke here>.
Not to mention my garage stinks of oil as it drops a puddle every time I use it.
I filled it to the rim with the oil/sealant so it is purging a bit.

Update - 11:46pm EST
After a couple of glasses of wine, cleaning the garage a bit and decided to just put the second clamp on.
Loosened and moved the one that was there.
Added mine at the top edge of where the hose meets the res nippple.
Then slid the one that was there up flush against the new one and tightened it.
Started the car, let it come to temp (low idle). Revved it a few times, then shut it off.
Will check in the morning.

 

@Circumnavigator , 92 is the correct number, but in ft-lbs. Here's the specs from the X150 Service Manual.

 

Well crap, they were ridiculously tight. I'll go check again. BRB with an edit.

Edit: umm is my made in China torque wrench whack?
Cuz those aren’t the same.

Edit edit:
Oh for the love of God. Too much college football today. Brain is broken. It is only in Ft-Lbs. No nm scale. So all good they are at 92ft-lbs.

Leaving the image to remind me of my stupidity.