I doubt you'll find out the level of detail you'd need to reach a conclusion on this. I'd stake 5.5 quarts of oil on my what my guess would be though

I get what you mean, given the noise in the video, plus the stated oil level in the note above I think it's pretty safe to conclude at this point that the engine has spun one or more bearings, probably connecting rod(s). However, in order to get the new signature you'd need to know what caused the low oil level in the first place: if we assume it wasn't as obvious as it leaking out, then it had to have burned, and the million-dollar signature-deciding question is: was it metal in the oil from timing issues wearing piston rings causing oil burning, or did the engine overheating blow the head gasket or warp the head causing oil to be burned off?

We may never know

 

The answer is staring at us. In a word negligence.
No one in their right mind would decline service when told oil was critically low.
One thing is for certain, they did not want it maintained by a dealer.

Thus, how oil got to that level is not hard to imagine, someone with that level of care probably did not care what oil went in there, the fast burning kind was fine, or perhaps the kid in the quick-lube shop did not know how to properly check for fill levels.
That coupled with annual oil change, was the perfect storm for accelerated wear on timing chain, not just from the low oil, but the oil's lack of detergents to keep the carbon particles at bay.
Wonder if the oil was even changed in the last 30,000 miles; possible.

I rule out oil head gasket and warped heads. The oil level would have been higher, due to the presence of coolant. The first thing the tech would have done is a compression test. And there would have been obvious loss of power and several codes thrown.
Best proof however is; if the car had warped a head or head gasket, it would not have been sold to OP. He would have test drove it and said this feels like a 3 cylinder.

 

I have an OBD-II reader lying around somewhere, will scan and report back.

 

Sadly I suspect nothing short of a full engine tear-down will give you a definitive answer.

 

P0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low
here's the original diagnostic report, by the way. seems pretty clear, huh?

 

Or they thought. "Oh it's a 5L V8. Must be a ford engine. 5 Quarts of 10W-40 will do ya. That'll be $19.99. We'll have ya out of here in 10 minutes."

 

I wondered if this might be the resolution since this is like that recent F430 sold through a Mercedes dealership lawsuit. Basically, the Mercedes dealer was requested to get an inspection at a Ferrari dealer on a car they were selling, didn't fix or disclose the exhaust manifold issue, and passed the buck onto the consumer. The fact they sold the car needing work is no sin, the fact they were compensated for an inspection and suppressed critical information is the problem.

What kind of F Type? R? Picture time!

 

Thanks, SinF!

 

Yeah, I didn't mind most of the F-Type, it was really fun. What I DIDN'T like was;
Too-Small inside but I could have lived with it.
The top didn't get covered, it was its own tonneau, I could have lived with it.
It looked sort of generic, I could have lived with it.
With the top UP, the driver side C-pillar was impossible. THAT I could not live with and be happy about it.

 

I'm impatiently awaiting delivery of this: https://www.vroom.com/inventory/jagu...WA6AT3G8K24881

I am sure the XKR's 510hp will be missed.

 

28,000 miles and three owners? Huh.

 

Wow some folks have a natural gift for letting the air out of all the feel good balloons in the room....to suit their mood. lol





The Ftype is phenomenal in every way. Its more of a true sports car so naturally the space will be commensurate.


What you lack in power, you make up in handling, shifting, fun-to-drive, etc.


The main thing is, if you were only just getting into the XK, you would be a decade or more too late to the bell-bottom craze.


The Ftype is absolutely current in every way, and its a timeless classic, instantly recognizable.





You will appreciate this, 3 years ago my brother bought a brand new FT V6 (black on black), after giving up on hunting for a XKR, which he could not find one in new enough condition.


It was a huge step down in power from everything he was used to. He still says its the best car he has ever owned. He came from Merc Sl, Porsches, M3, M5, M4

 

Thanks Queen and Country. I enrolled in a bondurant school of racing class in two weeks to learn how to better appreciate the "handling, shifting, fun-to-drive, etc."

 

My friend had a V6S Manual F-Type - not as powerful or fast as my XF S/C by quite some margin, but god damn was it absolutely exhilarating to drive, and rowing the gears manually through a twisty road with the roof down was just perfect. Power and speed are not always everything.

 

It may "only" have 340hp, but it's still really solid in performance and a hoot. Really similar straight line performance to an early x100 XKR and I know I still have a blast in that! It looks pretty, has nice materials overall and handles nice. Very nice car!

 

Especially in a world where you cannot legally drive fast and you are only as fast as the damn Uber driver in front of you.
You have probably noticed this too; its impossible in our 5.0R to keep revs up at a high enough number to get that thrill on regular roads. Unless you hold it in a gear that also works as an engine brake.
The Ftype V6 doesn't feel so constricted.
I suppose what I am trying to convey, and its a compliment to the 5.0R, its too effortless, to get the sporty feeling in under 50mph traffic.

 

Part of the reason I signed up for the bondurant class was to learn how to better handle the XKR's torque. I must have spun the tires at least once a day the first couple of months. Saw a youtube review by an Englishman who basically said you end up driving the car like a grandmother because you know it's powerful enough to kill you. or something to that effect

 

Interesting so you need to get lighter shoes. Had mine for several years and 18,000 miles and have only "chirped" the rears once. Sounds like you'll need to find a good tire shop in the future.

 

Two suggestions:

1. Get better tires. Performance summer tires like Michelin Pilot 4S or Michelin Pilot Super Sport will go a long way toward having rear wheel drive car able to hook up and put power down.
2. Learn to roll in on throttle instead of stomping on it. You end up spinning wheels when you press throttle too rapidly (i.e. stomp on it). If you take 1 second to floor it down instead of 0.1 second (i.e. stomp) you will largely avoid spinning tires. With powerful rear wheel drive car knowing just how much throttle and how fast you can give it takes a bit of practice. Treat traction control kicking in as an indication of "I am doing it wrong".

 

How does that work? Can you just tell the insurance company the motor is shot?