24 month old battery drained while away for a month. I installed new battery with same specs. Followed reset procedures with no luck. Now unable to adjust both windows, mirrors seats and now convertible top. Tries multiple times to reset windows per procedure listed in manual. However, the seat adjustments do trigger each time pushed but only for a spilt sec. I tried to see if going through fulll convertible top sequence would resolve windows issue ... after pressing down switch the rear windows opened all the way and then the top started to retract before it froze in a open position approx 1 in from full close. I'm besides myself. Please help.

 

Your new battery isn't fully charged. This is a common problem, because batteries sit on retailer's shelves for months and discharge. See this recent thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rouble-255912/

 

Had battery checked out before leaving O Reilly. Measured Good12.5V. Cat started right up ... no errors except had to reset electronic brake then drove 30 miles with no issue before pulling back into my garage ... that's when I tried to reset windows, seats and mirrors. Could not reset windows per procedures and had se as t adjustments only pulsed ... not continuous.

 

Measure the voltage at the battery after the car sits with engine off for at least 8 hours and report back. If you do not have a multimeter get a cheap one under $10 from Harbor Freight...it is good enough for this.
Doesn't matter what it read at O'Reilly and it does not matter that the car still starts; you need to see what it reads now.

 

I just last week replaced my 3.5 year old Walmart battery. My Indy made sure that his jumper box was hooked up to my battery terminals during installation so that the memory settings would stay. I got the last battery at Walmart for $149+ which came to $175+$50 for installation. For anyone not used to changing a 60Lb battery in an awkward location, be careful not to hurt yourself. I empathize with you getting the settings correct.. I also checked my new battery on the floor at Walmart and it showed 12.66 at the posts. I would not want to buy a battery that is more than 30 days old, especially at $150. Good luck with getting your settings where they should be.

 

Mike,
12.5 volts is marginal. Read the entire thread from the beginning, and in particular Post #34.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-113258/page2/

It's possible for a new battery to be defective.

You have a 2007 XKR, which does not have the Battery Monitoring System module that was introduced with the 5.0L models. You can disregard the conversations in the above linked thread about the BMS.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...013-xk-239134/

Stuart

 

Mike, I recently purchased a 2009 XKR that had been sitting in the dealers showroom for over 4 months. They installed a new battery at my request and when I got it home I installed a CTEK battery charger immediately and it was on for almost 48 hours before the charger went into its' "maintenance" mode. Several days later a friend came by and we used his EXPENSIVE obd to test the car. I had/have multiple codes/faults shown many of them related to the previous dead battery at the dealer. So, your issue is in all probability the result of not only your previous battery but potentially the "new" one too. Invest in a CTEK. These cars are extremely sensitive to battery issues from what I've seen so far. Good luck!

 

I had to replace both my Grand Cherokee battery and XK battery in the same week. Bought both batteries at Sams Club, the JGC went in and worked without a hitch. I volt meter tested it prior to install, didn't charge it but if it didn't perform well can just charge it after installed so no big deal. Or just take the SUV for a ride and give it a road charge.

The XK battery I forgot to test, put it in and was completely dead. Tested it with the volt meter and turns out it threw like 7 volts, so it wasn't dead but fried internally. Took it back and swapped for another, this time I volt tested at the store so I knew I got at least a non-fubar'd battery. Took home, put it in, voila all was well. Lesson learned, the ONE time I didn't verify the battery I was burned, and in my hardest car to yank a battery out. Moral of the story is that batteries can be bad even when new, the quality is junk compared to when I was young. All the innovation in batteries is going to EV cars, not to lead acid.

 

Terminology matters. Know the difference between a battery charger, battery maintainer, and trickle charger.

You should use a 10 Amp or greater battery charger on a dead battery instead of a CTEK or similar battery maintainer. A battery maintainer's output is a fraction of a conventional battery charger, and will take days to fully charge a dead battery. A battery charger will do it in hours, not days.

The difference between a battery maintainer and a trickle charger is the difference between smart and dumb. A trickle charger has no circuitry to control the rate of charge. It charges very slowly at a constant rate and can cause the electrolyte to eventually boil out and destroy the battery. A battery maintainer has circuitry to prevent overcharging.

 

Good advice there.
I have the best of both worlds, a battery charger/maintainer that is 15 Amps so it brings a lowish battery up to full charge quite quickly and then maintains ("tends") it afterwards.
One of these: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...en_AU&start=10