Convertible XK8 2006

My right rear quarter window failed so I replaced the regulator, using detailed instructions I found here.
A bit of a struggle but got the old one out and replaced with a refurbished unit.
I wanted to operate the windows to check alignment but I'm stuck with the rear windows down.
I had to put the top down manually to work on it and partially raise to access the window regulator.
But now I can't get any response from the top or rear windows, which are stuck down.
No error messages on the dash.

I know the rear rams have to be extended and I've done that.
But still nothing from the rear windows.
I can open or close the top latch by hand but that doesn't seem to help.
The only thing that happens when I hold the top up button is that the door windows go down.
But nothing else moves.
I have plenty of fluid in the pump tank.
I have tried a hard reset, remove ground and touch the positive terminal for 10 secs - no change.

I am thinking that I've got the system stuck out of sequence.
That is I did the reset when the rear windows were down and now it's confused.
So my question is: how do I get it back to the starting point?
And if I do, will that allow everything to work in sequence?
I could raise the rear windows by jumping the relays to get back to the starting position and then do a hard rest?

Any advice/help appreciated.
I hope I'm missing something simple before I have to get into all the switches and relays.
Many thanks, Steve

 

This morning update, XK8 convertible 2006.
Located the relays for the back windows, jumped and raised the windows.
With the door windows up, and the top up, hard reset on battery, ground strap to positive terminal.
When I reconnected the battery, the rear windows went down.
And stayed down.
Operating the roof button did not raise the rear windows, so back to square one.

Then we tried lowering the top manually, door windows down, rear windows still down.
And a hard reset at the battery again.
Reconnected, nothing moves except the door windows.
Rear windows are down and inoperable.
No error messages on the dash.

I am starting to run out of ideas.
But now I have the rear windows up, I can adjust the fit and finish the regulator replacement and replace all parts.

 

Steve, my only guess would be the switch itself is not making contact.
You have done everything I would have done. check with Gus.

 

So, I have to ask, have you made sure the petcock on the pump is correct (since you lowered the top manually and say you can still operate the latch manually)?

 

To cjd777 and blindside

Thank you for your input.
Both valid points.
I don't think it's the roof switch on the console because pressing it drops the door windows.
That's the only thing, but it suggests the switch works.
And I get the same result using the door key.

Easy to forget the petcock, I know.
All the way clockwise to operate the top.
All the way anti-clockwise to move it manually, plus releasing the rear rams.
So that's not it.

Nearly finished the window job, I'll try the top again when I finish.

Tip for the day:
If you're doing the rear window job, get a telescopic magnet to retrieve the parts you drop in there.
I must have used it five times and there's still a 30 Torx bit in there somewhere.
A few rags stuffed in can catch things before they disappear into the depths.

 

when you press the switch, can you hear the pump running at all??

http://jagrepair.com/JaguarXK8RoofTr...01997-2006.htm

 

Someone on this forum posted about a manual switch that splices into the wires controlling the rear windows...so they could be raised independently when the top is down. This MIGHT help you out, and iirc its reasonably easy to do,just a rocker switch and tapping the wires under the armrest. Wish I were at home cuz I saved the info on my PC....when I get home this evening I'll see if I can find it.

 

Did you reset the front windows for auto up/down? Try that and then recheck. Seen it work before.

 

To sklimii and rummy636:
Both good suggestions, thank you.
No sounds from the pump.
Yes I did reset the front windows, both sides.

Rear wIndow job is finished, all back in place, no error messages.
But inoperable.
For the meantime, I will operate the rear windows using the relays and operate the top manually.
Working windows (using relays) for the first time in 6 months so now I can wash the car.

Tip for the day:
Don't forget the passenger sensor connection.
I did, left it dangling somewhere in the rear window compartment.
I didn't realize till I needed to reconnect for the very last step.
Had to backtrack several steps to retrieve it.

to dbtk44:
That's an interesting suggestion, thank you.
According to what I've read on this site and elsewhere, you should be able to operate the rear windows independently by a one shot touch of the roof button.
I also don't understand, why the rear windows don't operate.
There's a long thread on this site about eliminating the hydraulic latch operation.
I'll have to go back and look again, but the windows and top seemed to work for them after unlatching manually.

I have the feeling, that either something is out of sequence or needs resetting.
Or, I have a sensor/relay failure - something that is not sending the correct signal to enable succeeding steps in the top operation.
I know Gus has posted the opening/closing sequences but I'm starting to get out of my depth.
I'll have to look into that much more, if needed.

The car now has the top down and the rear windows down.
If I press the top up button, door windows go down and there is a chime. That's all.
Pressing top down does nothing, no messages on the dash.

Oh well. it's a sunny day - take a ride while the top's down.
Put it up manually for a good wash.

 

Check your PM.

 

if your work was done on the right side, is it possible that you touch the micro switch connectors at the top and bottom of the cylinder ? If so it might be the problem with the windows up or down sequence

 

Any progress?

 

To Gus,

I cleaned the switch in the latch housing with WD40and I could easily move it up and down with a pencil.
I disconnected the B/W power to the hydraulic pump to test the voltage.
No voltage when the roof button was pressed.

Top up (manually).
Rear windows up by relay.
Nice quiet drive with the windows up.
Drivable and washable now.

to Ledmi,
You raise a good point.
I worked on the right rear window.
There's a lot going on in the narrow space and the switches are on the right ram.
So it is possible I have disturbed something.
I don't know yet how to check the switches but that's something to look into.

 

Set the top to manual and lower it by hand.
Then, turn it back to automatic on the pump while open.

USE the relays for the rear window AND/OR lower the rear windows (all windows) with the key turned to the unlock position in the DS door. Hold for several seconds. Door closed. Things will start to move to,,,, open position.

Make sure car is in park. Running might help.

With the key approach you should see the top center latch (over the windshield) close itself and disappear, car thinking that the top is down/o0en (and it is).

Give the top (open/down now) a couple sharp downward pushes jus to make sure it's alllll the way down/open. Push down on the open LH and RH top corners, walking around the car.

Pump set to auto, try the key in the door to LOCK and see if everything goes to close... Or, try the button on the console for this. I like the key method.

Basically, everything in the system (the brain) needs to think that it's "open" (and it basically is) before it will auto close. If that makes any sense...?

Main sensors (I think) is the shifter, the center latch at the windshield and the sensors in the rams for the "brain" to know where everything is.

 

Checked the 40 amp pump fuse in the trunk and it was blown.
Replaced the fuse.
Pressed and held roof down, door and rear windows dropped, nothing else.
Checked pump fuse, blown again.

Now, I am worried.
Much appreciation to all contributors.

 

Hmm. I thought the origial problem was to do with the rear quarter windows not being in unison with the rest throwing the whole thing off? Are you saying they are working now? If so, that's good... ish

For the pump. Make sure that you are certain on the direction of that manual valve/**** - even though it kind doesn't matter for what's next. Anyways, check the condition of the plug. At this point I would pull the pump off the stack of audio components and, WITHOUT disconnecting the hydrologic lines or pulling it completely, if possible, undo the motor from the hose and valve assembly and bench test the motor. For some reason it sounds to have gotten locked up and or the drive axle has gotten off center resisting and shorting out. It comes off of the valve and solenoid housing quite easily. Or, is it running at button push in the manual position and running wide open without facing any resistance from fluid pressure? Spun itself toooooo fast and burned itself out?

You'll get this.

 

Member Dennis has a page on convertible top motor repair: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sb2...7DqEXZ8Jy/view

More often than not, a dead short causing a blown fuse is simply due to a failed transient suppressor, which is fortunately a pretty simple repair.

 

Disconnected hydraulic pump and pressed roof button.
No movement (obviously) but no blown fuse either.
So, from what I've read on this site, that means the problem lies in the pump motor.
I'll look into replacing it but it will have to wait for an empty weekend.

To all contributors on this thread and on this site, a big thank you.
It's an invaluable resource.