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Can anyone recommend an "affordable" supply unit to connect to a 5.0 XKR to allow programming etc.? I believe 40A is recommended for my car. I'm in the UK, so looking for products readily available here. There's a CTEK product - the PRO25S - which only provides 25A and is about £280.
I also assume that such a device would allow leisurely detailing of the interior with the doors open without flattening the battery, which would be a bonus.
Think "something that provides power" instead of "power supply". All you need is a battery charger that has 40 amps, not some fancy electronic contraption with voltage leveling and an oscilloscope.
I use a charger similar to this, since mine is several years old. It's worked flawlessly.
Think "something that provides power" instead of "power supply". All you need is a battery charger that has 40 amps, not some fancy electronic contraption with voltage leveling and an oscilloscope.
I use a charger similar to this, since mine is several years old. It's worked flawlessly.
Aha. Yes, I was at a bit of a loss as to what to call the thing.
So, essentially you're saying that there's no special requirement in terms of smooth/regulated voltage etc and all that matters is power - and it won't muck up the electronics in the car.
Aha. Yes, I was at a bit of a loss as to what to call the thing.
So, essentially you're saying that there's no special requirement in terms of smooth/regulated voltage etc and all that matters is power - and it won't muck up the electronics in the car.
The battery will act as a filter to make the power 100% compatible with the car's electronics. I'd not recommend running the electronics in the car WITHOUT a battery installed though. I'd probably work, but the bus systems may not like it. Battery chargers are pretty 'noisy' when it comes to a smooth signal. The battery will flatten out any extra waves.
The battery will act as a filter to make the power 100% compatible with the car's electronics. I'd not recommend running the electronics in the car WITHOUT a battery installed though. I'd probably work, but the bus systems may not like it. Battery chargers are pretty 'noisy' when it comes to a smooth signal. The battery will flatten out any extra waves.
OK, thanks - sounds like I'm just looking for a high power charger with around 40A.
As of right now this minute all I need to do is reset the BMS when I put a new battery in this weekend, and I can do that without any electrical 'assistance' I hope. But I will have more diagnostics/programming I want to do in the future. (And I also really fancy the idea of being able to have the doors open for as long as I like when I'm cleaning.)
(And I also really fancy the idea of being able to have the doors open for as long as I like when I'm cleaning.)
Justin, just open you door and use a screwdriver to flip the latch on the door to the closed position. Then press "lock" on the key fob and your car thinks the door is closed. No need for battery support. I do this each time I clean. When done, just press "unlock" on the fob and the door latch will return to normal, or use the screwdriver again:-)
Justin, just open you door and use a screwdriver to flip the latch on the door to the closed position. Then press "lock" on the key fob and your car thinks the door is closed. No need for battery support. I do this each time I clean. When done, just press "unlock" on the fob and the door latch will return to normal, or use the screwdriver again:-)
There's some misinformation here. The suggestions made are fine for leaving the doors open and reading diagnostics, but you mention programming. IF you're doing any significant module writing or CCF editing, you must use the proper type of power supply or modules could get corrupted. The cost for one of these isn't that bad considering. I've got the 55amp of one of these.
There's some misinformation here. The suggestions made are fine for leaving the doors open and reading diagnostics, but you mention programming. IF you're doing any significant module writing or CCF editing, you must use the proper type of power supply or modules could get corrupted. The cost for one of these isn't that bad considering. I've got the 55amp of one of these.
To be clear, my suggestion was in relation to cleaning the interior, which I quoted, not programming.
Yes, the title of this thread says for programming so I wanted to be certain in that type of usage, the type of power supply matters. This isn't unique to Jags either, all manufacturer's advise the use of the same type of power supply. Engineers wouldn't advise it if the risk to brick modules wasn't there.
Cleaning, programming, charging a new battery or reconditioning an old battery.............. Zero sense to buy any equipment that only does one thing.
I agree - I hate all those 'one job tools'. On the other hand, I totally get the concept of needing a highly regulated supply to protect the process when programming.
Unless you are running, high current draw features like seat heaters, steering wheel heaters, stereo on full blast, I dint understand why you need such a high power unit. Wouldn’t an 8A battery maintainer be adequate?
I would have gone with something that has low ripple/noise. The recommended brand (Midtronics) is not used for charging a vehicle.
Sean, I hear you and you're right I'm sure. I understand DC power supplies well, though in a completely different context (analogue mixing desks etc.). However, I'm new to the concept of essentially running a car off the mains.
So, having discovered that the proper term for what workshops, ECU re-mappers etc plug up is "Battery Support Unit" I limited my search to products advertised as being for that specific purpose.
In any case, the battery itself is going to remain connected, no? Doesn't that provide the necessary smoothing?
Unless you are running, high current draw features like seat heaters, steering wheel heaters, stereo on full blast, I dint understand why you need such a high power unit. Wouldn’t an 8A battery maintainer be adequate?
@XKDreams The current draw for module programming's quite higher than that which's why the engineers at JLR advise at least 55amps
@XKDreams The current draw for module programming's quite higher than that which's why the engineers at JLR advise at least 55amps
I still don’t understand why just programming would draw that much power. Computers and their memory dont draw much more current during programming than during “normal” operation. But, if you are hooking up the diagnostic tool, and activating different loads such as windows, heaters, etc…in the process of diagnosing a problem, I can then see the large power draw.
Battery PSU for while programming etc
