Body Shop Recommendation for St Petersburg or Tampa FL
#41
The inner structure is where you'll have to keep fingers crossed. That is where the geometry can really go awry and likely keep doors from aligning and working properly. My accident looked so minor on the surface but turned out to yield nightmare issues that required an alignment table to be able to replace inner structural panels. Because aluminum has no memory structural parts can not be bent or pounded back into position without extreme risk of micro fractures.
If the hinge pillar (or any structural part) is damaged be sure to inquire how they intend to rectify it. Again, that is why damage on aluminum body cars mandates repair by certified shops. I was in contact with the shop on a weekly basis and think that helped keep the insurance co at bay from insisting on cost saving short cuts. I also let them know up front I would not accept any used or non-Jag parts with out my personal approval.
I'm sure you know all of this already so excuse my repetition.
If the hinge pillar (or any structural part) is damaged be sure to inquire how they intend to rectify it. Again, that is why damage on aluminum body cars mandates repair by certified shops. I was in contact with the shop on a weekly basis and think that helped keep the insurance co at bay from insisting on cost saving short cuts. I also let them know up front I would not accept any used or non-Jag parts with out my personal approval.
I'm sure you know all of this already so excuse my repetition.
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nsjdj (07-23-2018)
#42
I have not looked on the inside of these doors but would be concerned about aligning the window tracts as well as the components for the latch system. My main concern here would be damage to the door hinge support/mount frame structure. You can't see that potential damage from here but if the door opens and closes correctly then it may not be a problem. He even might be lucky enough to get one that is the same color.
No I get the reason for a complete used door, and I agree that damage is more than "skin" deep. It was just the skin thing Sean mentioned had me curious.
Happy Sunday,
Dave
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nsjdj (07-23-2018)
#43
Door skins are assembled robotically at a factory during build. They're spot welded along with the adhesive bond. No way can a human match that level of precision and there's a 50/50 chance they will leak long term. Why bother when you can get a door on eBay for $700. Add to that Jagtoes' comments regarding alignment concerns and it's just not worth the savings IMO. My opinion only and I would personally avoid any body shop that says otherwise, if it were my car.
I was more curious about this long term weakness thing and thought there was a unique thing with this on an XK. I have done aluminum door skin replacements on Porsche 928s and no one could tell the difference, and never have even decades later.
With all that said, a perfect used door is always the way to go, and one in the same color/year is like the goose that laid the golden egg.....JACKPOT!
Have a great day,
Dave
#44
The inner structure is where you'll have to keep fingers crossed. That is where the geometry can really go awry and likely keep doors from aligning and working properly. My accident looked so minor on the surface but turned out to yield nightmare issues that required an alignment table to be able to replace inner structural panels. Because aluminum has no memory structural parts can not be bent or pounded back into position without extreme risk of micro fractures.
If the hinge pillar (or any structural part) is damaged be sure to inquire how they intend to rectify it. Again, that is why damage on aluminum body cars mandates repair by certified shops. I was in contact with the shop on a weekly basis and think that helped keep the insurance co at bay from insisting on cost saving short cuts. I also let them know up front I would not accept any used or non-Jag parts with out my personal approval.
I'm sure you know all of this already so excuse my repetition.
If the hinge pillar (or any structural part) is damaged be sure to inquire how they intend to rectify it. Again, that is why damage on aluminum body cars mandates repair by certified shops. I was in contact with the shop on a weekly basis and think that helped keep the insurance co at bay from insisting on cost saving short cuts. I also let them know up front I would not accept any used or non-Jag parts with out my personal approval.
I'm sure you know all of this already so excuse my repetition.
When you make posts that good who cares about the repetition!
Cheers,
Dave
Last edited by 10XKR; 07-22-2018 at 03:55 PM.
#45
Diminished Value
Time is money. Replacing the door, as Sean W and others recommend, instead of repairing it is a better solution. How much time would it take to straighten and reskin the damaged door and how much would that cost compared to a good, used door? Even if a replacement door costs more, it's worth the incremental cost to avoid other problems.
Because the other party was at fault, you're the decision maker when it comes to repair or replace. Your insurance company is your advocate and they will recover that expense from the other party's insurance company. You don't have to accept their first offer of Diminished Value if you think it's a low-ball. You can claim DV even if it's not part of your policy, since it's a third-party claim against the other party's insurance.
Note that the repair cost is a significant factor in determining your car's FMV after the accident. One way to know what your repaired car is worth is to take it to CarMax and show them the repair invoice and get their offer in writing. Another way is to pay a qualified DV expert for their independent appraisal.
Several years ago my Lexus LS460 was damaged and repaired at a cost exceeding $30K. In addition to paying that repair cost, my insurance company paid me $8K for DV. They initially sent me a DV check for only $750, which I returned to them as being insufficient. To make a long story short, it helps to have a son who is an insurance litigator.
There are 2 types of claims: (1) first party, which are made by the policyholder against his own insurance policy, and (2) third party, which are made against the other party's insurance. Most likely, you'll make a third party claim.
I'm fortunate to be in Georgia, which is one of the few states (perhaps the only state) that require insurance companies to pay first party DV claims. The Georgia Supreme Court decided in 2001 that insurance companies are liable for DV claims as a matter of common law. Insurance companies like to use the formula discussed in that case to calculate DV since it results in a low amount. Insurance companies will tell you that it is the court-approved method, but that is misleading since it is not the only approved method of determining DV. An independent appraisal will often result in a much higher DV amount.
In most other states, however, a DV rider would be needed to make a first party claim (against your own insurance company under contract law). A DV rider is not needed to make a third party claim (against the other driver's insurance company under common law). Whether a third party claim will be successful depends on state law.
A third party DV claim should be made immediately after your car has been repaired, since the repair cost is a significant factor in determining it's fair market value at that time. DV is the difference between the FMV immediately before and immediately after the accident. One way to know what your repaired car is worth is to take it to CarMax or your Jaguar dealer and show them the repair invoice and get their offer in writing. You should also get a written DV appraisal to prove the amount of your DV claim. You can find many appraisers on the internet qualified to do so for a fee of around $300.
Don't inadvertently jeopardize your rights to get the maximum DV. If you receive a low-ball check for DV, don't deposit it; instead, return it by certified mail, return receipt. And don't sign anything that says that says that "payment is in full satisfaction of your claim".
Here are some articles about DV including some appraisers:
Will My Insurance Pay for a Loss In My Car’s Value if it Is Damaged In a Collision? | III
Diminished Value: Biggest secret about DiminishedValue Claims with insurance | Online Auto Appraisals
Diminished Value Appraisals by Experienced Vehicle Appraisers from Auto Appraisal Group Inc.: Claim Assistance: Diminished Value Claims
P.S. The above is quoted from my Post #3 in this 2016 thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rience-166352/
Because the other party was at fault, you're the decision maker when it comes to repair or replace. Your insurance company is your advocate and they will recover that expense from the other party's insurance company. You don't have to accept their first offer of Diminished Value if you think it's a low-ball. You can claim DV even if it's not part of your policy, since it's a third-party claim against the other party's insurance.
Note that the repair cost is a significant factor in determining your car's FMV after the accident. One way to know what your repaired car is worth is to take it to CarMax and show them the repair invoice and get their offer in writing. Another way is to pay a qualified DV expert for their independent appraisal.
Several years ago my Lexus LS460 was damaged and repaired at a cost exceeding $30K. In addition to paying that repair cost, my insurance company paid me $8K for DV. They initially sent me a DV check for only $750, which I returned to them as being insufficient. To make a long story short, it helps to have a son who is an insurance litigator.
There are 2 types of claims: (1) first party, which are made by the policyholder against his own insurance policy, and (2) third party, which are made against the other party's insurance. Most likely, you'll make a third party claim.
I'm fortunate to be in Georgia, which is one of the few states (perhaps the only state) that require insurance companies to pay first party DV claims. The Georgia Supreme Court decided in 2001 that insurance companies are liable for DV claims as a matter of common law. Insurance companies like to use the formula discussed in that case to calculate DV since it results in a low amount. Insurance companies will tell you that it is the court-approved method, but that is misleading since it is not the only approved method of determining DV. An independent appraisal will often result in a much higher DV amount.
In most other states, however, a DV rider would be needed to make a first party claim (against your own insurance company under contract law). A DV rider is not needed to make a third party claim (against the other driver's insurance company under common law). Whether a third party claim will be successful depends on state law.
A third party DV claim should be made immediately after your car has been repaired, since the repair cost is a significant factor in determining it's fair market value at that time. DV is the difference between the FMV immediately before and immediately after the accident. One way to know what your repaired car is worth is to take it to CarMax or your Jaguar dealer and show them the repair invoice and get their offer in writing. You should also get a written DV appraisal to prove the amount of your DV claim. You can find many appraisers on the internet qualified to do so for a fee of around $300.
Don't inadvertently jeopardize your rights to get the maximum DV. If you receive a low-ball check for DV, don't deposit it; instead, return it by certified mail, return receipt. And don't sign anything that says that says that "payment is in full satisfaction of your claim".
Here are some articles about DV including some appraisers:
Will My Insurance Pay for a Loss In My Car’s Value if it Is Damaged In a Collision? | III
Diminished Value: Biggest secret about DiminishedValue Claims with insurance | Online Auto Appraisals
Diminished Value Appraisals by Experienced Vehicle Appraisers from Auto Appraisal Group Inc.: Claim Assistance: Diminished Value Claims
P.S. The above is quoted from my Post #3 in this 2016 thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rience-166352/
Last edited by Stuart S; 07-22-2018 at 02:07 PM. Reason: Added P.S.
#46
Door skins are assembled robotically at a factory during build. They're spot welded along with the adhesive bond. No way can a human match that level of precision and there's a 50/50 chance they will leak long term. Why bother when you can get a door on eBay for $700. Add to that Jagtoes' comments regarding alignment concerns and it's just not worth the savings IMO. My opinion only and I would personally avoid any body shop that says otherwise, if it were my car.
I had requested and then confirmed that I would be getting the door and the front panel replaced.
The adjuster admitted that there could be damage to the door hinge.
I was concerned about it being a write-off but the adjuster indicated that the car is in far too good a shape, with relatively low mileage (about 45K miles) to get to the point of a write-off.
Thanks again!
Last edited by nsjdj; 07-22-2018 at 06:04 PM.
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Sean W (07-24-2018)
#47
Time is money. Replacing the door, as Sean W and others recommend, instead of repairing it is a better solution. How much time would it take to straighten and reskin the damaged door and how much would that cost compared to a good, used door? Even if a replacement door costs more, it's worth the incremental cost to avoid other problems.
Because the other party was at fault, you're the decision maker when it comes to repair or replace. Your insurance company is your advocate and they will recover that expense from the other party's insurance company. You don't have to accept their first offer of Diminished Value if you think it's a low-ball. You can claim DV even if it's not part of your policy, since it's a third-party claim against the other party's insurance.
Note that the repair cost is a significant factor in determining your car's FMV after the accident. One way to know what your repaired car is worth is to take it to CarMax and show them the repair invoice and get their offer in writing. Another way is to pay a qualified DV expert for their independent appraisal.
Several years ago my Lexus LS460 was damaged and repaired at a cost exceeding $30K. In addition to paying that repair cost, my insurance company paid me $8K for DV. They initially sent me a DV check for only $750, which I returned to them as being insufficient. To make a long story short, it helps to have a son who is an insurance litigator.
There are 2 types of claims: (1) first party, which are made by the policyholder against his own insurance policy, and (2) third party, which are made against the other party's insurance. Most likely, you'll make a third party claim.
I'm fortunate to be in Georgia, which is one of the few states (perhaps the only state) that require insurance companies to pay first party DV claims. The Georgia Supreme Court decided in 2001 that insurance companies are liable for DV claims as a matter of common law. Insurance companies like to use the formula discussed in that case to calculate DV since it results in a low amount. Insurance companies will tell you that it is the court-approved method, but that is misleading since it is not the only approved method of determining DV. An independent appraisal will often result in a much higher DV amount.
In most other states, however, a DV rider would be needed to make a first party claim (against your own insurance company under contract law). A DV rider is not needed to make a third party claim (against the other driver's insurance company under common law). Whether a third party claim will be successful depends on state law.
A third party DV claim should be made immediately after your car has been repaired, since the repair cost is a significant factor in determining it's fair market value at that time. DV is the difference between the FMV immediately before and immediately after the accident. One way to know what your repaired car is worth is to take it to CarMax or your Jaguar dealer and show them the repair invoice and get their offer in writing. You should also get a written DV appraisal to prove the amount of your DV claim. You can find many appraisers on the internet qualified to do so for a fee of around $300.
Don't inadvertently jeopardize your rights to get the maximum DV. If you receive a low-ball check for DV, don't deposit it; instead, return it by certified mail, return receipt. And don't sign anything that says that says that "payment is in full satisfaction of your claim".
Here are some articles about DV including some appraisers:
Will My Insurance Pay for a Loss In My Car’s Value if it Is Damaged In a Collision? | III
Diminished Value: Biggest secret about DiminishedValue Claims with insurance | Online Auto Appraisals
Diminished Value Appraisals by Experienced Vehicle Appraisers from Auto Appraisal Group Inc.: Claim Assistance: Diminished Value Claims
P.S. The above is quoted from my Post #3 in this 2016 thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rience-166352/
Because the other party was at fault, you're the decision maker when it comes to repair or replace. Your insurance company is your advocate and they will recover that expense from the other party's insurance company. You don't have to accept their first offer of Diminished Value if you think it's a low-ball. You can claim DV even if it's not part of your policy, since it's a third-party claim against the other party's insurance.
Note that the repair cost is a significant factor in determining your car's FMV after the accident. One way to know what your repaired car is worth is to take it to CarMax and show them the repair invoice and get their offer in writing. Another way is to pay a qualified DV expert for their independent appraisal.
Several years ago my Lexus LS460 was damaged and repaired at a cost exceeding $30K. In addition to paying that repair cost, my insurance company paid me $8K for DV. They initially sent me a DV check for only $750, which I returned to them as being insufficient. To make a long story short, it helps to have a son who is an insurance litigator.
There are 2 types of claims: (1) first party, which are made by the policyholder against his own insurance policy, and (2) third party, which are made against the other party's insurance. Most likely, you'll make a third party claim.
I'm fortunate to be in Georgia, which is one of the few states (perhaps the only state) that require insurance companies to pay first party DV claims. The Georgia Supreme Court decided in 2001 that insurance companies are liable for DV claims as a matter of common law. Insurance companies like to use the formula discussed in that case to calculate DV since it results in a low amount. Insurance companies will tell you that it is the court-approved method, but that is misleading since it is not the only approved method of determining DV. An independent appraisal will often result in a much higher DV amount.
In most other states, however, a DV rider would be needed to make a first party claim (against your own insurance company under contract law). A DV rider is not needed to make a third party claim (against the other driver's insurance company under common law). Whether a third party claim will be successful depends on state law.
A third party DV claim should be made immediately after your car has been repaired, since the repair cost is a significant factor in determining it's fair market value at that time. DV is the difference between the FMV immediately before and immediately after the accident. One way to know what your repaired car is worth is to take it to CarMax or your Jaguar dealer and show them the repair invoice and get their offer in writing. You should also get a written DV appraisal to prove the amount of your DV claim. You can find many appraisers on the internet qualified to do so for a fee of around $300.
Don't inadvertently jeopardize your rights to get the maximum DV. If you receive a low-ball check for DV, don't deposit it; instead, return it by certified mail, return receipt. And don't sign anything that says that says that "payment is in full satisfaction of your claim".
Here are some articles about DV including some appraisers:
Will My Insurance Pay for a Loss In My Car’s Value if it Is Damaged In a Collision? | III
Diminished Value: Biggest secret about DiminishedValue Claims with insurance | Online Auto Appraisals
Diminished Value Appraisals by Experienced Vehicle Appraisers from Auto Appraisal Group Inc.: Claim Assistance: Diminished Value Claims
P.S. The above is quoted from my Post #3 in this 2016 thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rience-166352/
This is outstanding advice and I will absolutely look into it.
The following users liked this post:
Stuart S (07-22-2018)
#48
The inner structure is where you'll have to keep fingers crossed. That is where the geometry can really go awry and likely keep doors from aligning and working properly. My accident looked so minor on the surface but turned out to yield nightmare issues that required an alignment table to be able to replace inner structural panels. Because aluminum has no memory structural parts can not be bent or pounded back into position without extreme risk of micro fractures.
If the hinge pillar (or any structural part) is damaged be sure to inquire how they intend to rectify it. Again, that is why damage on aluminum body cars mandates repair by certified shops. I was in contact with the shop on a weekly basis and think that helped keep the insurance co at bay from insisting on cost saving short cuts. I also let them know up front I would not accept any used or non-Jag parts with out my personal approval.
I'm sure you know all of this already so excuse my repetition.
If the hinge pillar (or any structural part) is damaged be sure to inquire how they intend to rectify it. Again, that is why damage on aluminum body cars mandates repair by certified shops. I was in contact with the shop on a weekly basis and think that helped keep the insurance co at bay from insisting on cost saving short cuts. I also let them know up front I would not accept any used or non-Jag parts with out my personal approval.
I'm sure you know all of this already so excuse my repetition.
No "excuse" required -- great advice (getting lots on this forum).
Hinge pillar may very well be damaged.
I am very worried about the interior of the replacement door matching up with the rest of the car as well.
I am driving my wife crazy right now with my constant worrying about this repair.
She keeps telling me that everyone (her and my kids) are glad that I was not hurt -- they are absolutely correct, yet I am still being unreasonable.
They start work on it tomorrow morning.
I will call them to provide some feedback, based on what I heard from this forum.
Thanks!
#49
Door skins are assembled robotically at a factory during build. They're spot welded along with the adhesive bond. No way can a human match that level of precision and there's a 50/50 chance they will leak long term. Why bother when you can get a door on eBay for $700. Add to that Jagtoes' comments regarding alignment concerns and it's just not worth the savings IMO. My opinion only and I would personally avoid any body shop that says otherwise, if it were my car.
#50
------------------
No "excuse" required -- great advice (getting lots on this forum).
Hinge pillar may very well be damaged.
I am very worried about the interior of the replacement door matching up with the rest of the car as well.
I am driving my wife crazy right now with my constant worrying about this repair.
She keeps telling me that everyone (her and my kids) are glad that I was not hurt -- they are absolutely correct, yet I am still being unreasonable.
They start work on it tomorrow morning.
I will call them to provide some feedback, based on what I heard from this forum.
Thanks!
No "excuse" required -- great advice (getting lots on this forum).
Hinge pillar may very well be damaged.
I am very worried about the interior of the replacement door matching up with the rest of the car as well.
I am driving my wife crazy right now with my constant worrying about this repair.
She keeps telling me that everyone (her and my kids) are glad that I was not hurt -- they are absolutely correct, yet I am still being unreasonable.
They start work on it tomorrow morning.
I will call them to provide some feedback, based on what I heard from this forum.
Thanks!
#51
------------------
No "excuse" required -- great advice (getting lots on this forum).
Hinge pillar may very well be damaged.
I am very worried about the interior of the replacement door matching up with the rest of the car as well.
I am driving my wife crazy right now with my constant worrying about this repair.
She keeps telling me that everyone (her and my kids) are glad that I was not hurt -- they are absolutely correct, yet I am still being unreasonable.
They start work on it tomorrow morning.
I will call them to provide some feedback, based on what I heard from this forum.
Thanks!
No "excuse" required -- great advice (getting lots on this forum).
Hinge pillar may very well be damaged.
I am very worried about the interior of the replacement door matching up with the rest of the car as well.
I am driving my wife crazy right now with my constant worrying about this repair.
She keeps telling me that everyone (her and my kids) are glad that I was not hurt -- they are absolutely correct, yet I am still being unreasonable.
They start work on it tomorrow morning.
I will call them to provide some feedback, based on what I heard from this forum.
Thanks!
#52
I'm fortunate to be in Georgia, which is one of the few states (perhaps the only state) that require insurance companies to pay first party DV claims. The Georgia Supreme Court decided in 2001 that insurance companies are liable for DV claims as a matter of common law. Insurance companies like to use the formula discussed in that case to calculate DV since it results in a low amount. Insurance companies will tell you that it is the court-approved method, but that is misleading since it is not the only approved method of determining DV. An independent appraisal will often result in a much higher DV amount.
In most other states, however, a DV rider would be needed to make a first party claim (against your own insurance company under contract law). A DV rider is not needed to make a third party claim (against the other driver's insurance company under common law). Whether a third party claim will be successful depends on state law.
A third party DV claim should be made immediately after your car has been repaired, since the repair cost is a significant factor in determining it's fair market value at that time. DV is the difference between the FMV immediately before and immediately after the accident. One way to know what your repaired car is worth is to take it to CarMax or your Jaguar dealer and show them the repair invoice and get their offer in writing. You should also get a written DV appraisal to prove the amount of your DV claim. You can find many appraisers on the internet qualified to do so for a fee of around $300.
Don't inadvertently jeopardize your rights to get the maximum DV. If you receive a low-ball check for DV, don't deposit it; instead, return it by certified mail, return receipt. And don't sign anything that says that says that "payment is in full satisfaction of your claim".
Here are some articles about DV including some appraisers:
Will My Insurance Pay for a Loss In My Car’s Value if it Is Damaged In a Collision? | III
Diminished Value: Biggest secret about DiminishedValue Claims with insurance | Online Auto Appraisals
Diminished Value Appraisals by Experienced Vehicle Appraisers from Auto Appraisal Group Inc.: Claim Assistance: Diminished Value Claims
P.S. The above is quoted from my Post #3 in this 2016 thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rience-166352/
#53
Here in Minnesota, you get a used one if they are available, covered under insurance. New would be on your dime, though you may be able to only pay the difference between new and used. Skins are considered an upsell here and carriers will pay for the used door.
#54
The door card is not damaged at all. In fact the window still worked after the collision.
Are you saying that I should go for a new door completely?
#55
I assume the decision is up to you. To have a Jaguar replacement door shell would require that you would have to transfer all of the components of your damaged door into it. I don't see this as an issue but your body shop will have to do the labor. The other option is a used door and if searched you might get one off of a car that has the same color as yours . So maybe no need to paint and it should be hung without alignment concerns. It's up to you and either way it will work. I would check with Jaguar and see how long it would take to get a replacement door. It may be a shorter turn a round getting a used one.
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nsjdj (07-23-2018)
#56
I assume the decision is up to you. To have a Jaguar replacement door shell would require that you would have to transfer all of the components of your damaged door into it. I don't see this as an issue but your body shop will have to do the labor. The other option is a used door and if searched you might get one off of a car that has the same color as yours . So maybe no need to paint and it should be hung without alignment concerns. It's up to you and either way it will work. I would check with Jaguar and see how long it would take to get a replacement door. It may be a shorter turn a round getting a used one.
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nsjdj (07-23-2018)
#57
Black seems to be one of the most popular colors in the XK line. I'm thinking some salvage yard in the US would have a door undamaged with the same paint code. If so it just may match up after color sand and buffing. If it does then he wins and only needs to have the wing repainted. If not matched then just spray the door when you do the wing.
#58
Black seems to be one of the most popular colors in the XK line. I'm thinking some salvage yard in the US would have a door undamaged with the same paint code. If so it just may match up after color sand and buffing. If it does then he wins and only needs to have the wing repainted. If not matched then just spray the door when you do the wing.
Just got a call from Crown.
They had intended on ordering a new door from Jaguar as the insurance company will not allow parts from a salvage yard to be used in a repair but that is moot now.
The apron is damaged.
I was told that Jaguar will only ship parts to a shop certified in aluminum repair for Jaguar.
The only local shop is Dimmit -- so the car is now being towed there for the repair.
#59
Hi Dave
Unfortunately none of the Jag dealers around here have a true in-house Jag certified body shop, everything is sublet or sent, often without disclosure, to a sister dealership. I reckon the new Dimmitt collision center in Oldsmar will be certified once they get their new JLR dealership opened this year. However I had them do my Range Rover and it was a disaster. I have been using Superior Autobody for over 20 years and they are by far the best.
Unfortunately none of the Jag dealers around here have a true in-house Jag certified body shop, everything is sublet or sent, often without disclosure, to a sister dealership. I reckon the new Dimmitt collision center in Oldsmar will be certified once they get their new JLR dealership opened this year. However I had them do my Range Rover and it was a disaster. I have been using Superior Autobody for over 20 years and they are by far the best.
From my post above, I am now being sent to Dimmit as Superior Auto Body is not considered a certified aluminum Jaguar repair shop for the apron (it is torn). So, Jaguar will not ship the apron to them as it is a restricted part.
I am hoping that I have a better experience than you.
Last edited by nsjdj; 07-24-2018 at 01:03 PM.
#60
By the way paint codes don't matter, environmental factors as well as batch numbers will still alter the shade of black or any color for that mater which is why good body shops always paint/blend adjacent painted areas.
The following users liked this post:
nsjdj (07-24-2018)