Conv. rr qtr trm sliding panel questions..
#1
Conv. rr qtr trm sliding panel questions..
Hello again,
I have some more questions for those that have gone before..
My roof now goes up and down again, but the LHS/drivers side sliding plastic piece is staying forward, it was wedged but now slides freely and springs forward, the cord to pull it back was hanging on the top frame and still has the a loop on the front but it has pulled out of the air damper / spring cylinder.
So, it looks as if the quarter trim panel will have to come out to get at things.
I purchased a pdf manual and understand that the bright Jaguar trim has to be removed from the door scuff plate and discarded!! If careful can it be reused?
I found a 2016 post that Steve / WhiteXKR mentioned and have the part ##s for the repair kit, there are LH/RH ###s, what is the Jaguar protocol for LH, is it the even number?? (C2P21070SEP)?
I suspect that I could find a way to repair the thing once I see it, but to be safe I will buy the repair kit and have it available when I pull it apart.
These jobs always seem a bit intimidating the first time and any advice / tips will be appreciated..
Last question; Is there a good source / dealer in the US that will mail parts? I am going to be in SC in 2 weeks and would like to compare price with the local, 2hrs, dealer here in ON.
Many thanks
I have some more questions for those that have gone before..
My roof now goes up and down again, but the LHS/drivers side sliding plastic piece is staying forward, it was wedged but now slides freely and springs forward, the cord to pull it back was hanging on the top frame and still has the a loop on the front but it has pulled out of the air damper / spring cylinder.
So, it looks as if the quarter trim panel will have to come out to get at things.
I purchased a pdf manual and understand that the bright Jaguar trim has to be removed from the door scuff plate and discarded!! If careful can it be reused?
I found a 2016 post that Steve / WhiteXKR mentioned and have the part ##s for the repair kit, there are LH/RH ###s, what is the Jaguar protocol for LH, is it the even number?? (C2P21070SEP)?
I suspect that I could find a way to repair the thing once I see it, but to be safe I will buy the repair kit and have it available when I pull it apart.
These jobs always seem a bit intimidating the first time and any advice / tips will be appreciated..
Last question; Is there a good source / dealer in the US that will mail parts? I am going to be in SC in 2 weeks and would like to compare price with the local, 2hrs, dealer here in ON.
Many thanks
#2
#3
Hi, will be hoping to fix the existing part before buying that repair kit as seeing prices around $200(USf) ouch; part like this likely costs Jaguar $20! (and I may not need it).
C2P21071XXX is coming up as the LH part.
And the plastic part will likely have faded and the new one will be yet another shade of??
Any advice for removing that door sill scuff plate, ***-u-me it really has to come off?
Will let you know how it goes..
C2P21071XXX is coming up as the LH part.
And the plastic part will likely have faded and the new one will be yet another shade of??
Any advice for removing that door sill scuff plate, ***-u-me it really has to come off?
Will let you know how it goes..
Last edited by qcktvr; 05-10-2017 at 09:05 PM. Reason: missed something
#5
Yes, that's the piece. The fasteners are all hidden, I believe under the bright "Jaguar" emblem that my manual says is held on with adhesive... (and to discard?)
So easy to damage stuff when poking and prying, trying to figure out how...
Still thinking about it; 2 more cars to change wheels over, and the yard work...
Cheers
So easy to damage stuff when poking and prying, trying to figure out how...
Still thinking about it; 2 more cars to change wheels over, and the yard work...
Cheers
#6
Below is what Topix says to remove these 2 pieces of trim, and if I remember correctly, they are separate from each other.
Remove the scuff plate trim panel.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Loading...
Removal
Hope this helps
Remove the scuff plate trim panel.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Loading...
Removal
- Remove and discard the scuff plate decal.
-
Remove the front scuff plate trim panel.
Hope this helps
The following users liked this post:
kj07xk (05-11-2017)
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Conv. sliding panel - fixed - $0..
Hi again,
a quick update, all is fixed and working fine again without having to part with any $$$, so me is very happy.
Thanks to all for pictures and hand holding...
I predict that unless the design was updated, which is unlikely, then a high percentage of convertibles will suffer from failures in this sliding panel; it is a very poor design. When the top is down, which is how ours spends most of the summer, there is way too much stress on the cord that pulls the panel to the rear, hindsight I should have shortened the spring,(reduced the preload) in the cylinder under the panel.. The "pull" is also to one side, which aggravates the chance of the pins leaving their tracks..
Should have taken pictures, sorry..
My cord had pulled out of the small cylinder and the panel stayed fwd.
With the 1/4 trm pnl out the cylinders were removed.
The tracks were not broken.
2 snap hooks hold the end cap on, released with a small screwdriver, LOTS of preload on the spring!
Piston remained in the bottom, made a wire hook and pulled it out.
Embarrassed to say, but could not see how the cord had been attached; looked at the longer cylinder but quite different.. (maybe lost a piece??)
Pondered for awhile, then drilled 2 1/16in through piston in the flat areas under the 'O' ring, made a loop with some soft steel locking wire to hold the loop on the cord, used a piece of wire insulation on it to make it more friendly to the string..
The piston has a very small bleed hole, they call it a damper, and this fix will have increased the air flow, but the stroke is so short and the top frame going up speed is so slow that in my opinion any dampng is just about meaningless..
Anyway, it is all back together and working fine.. for now
Now to think about why the drivers door does not lock..
a quick update, all is fixed and working fine again without having to part with any $$$, so me is very happy.
Thanks to all for pictures and hand holding...
I predict that unless the design was updated, which is unlikely, then a high percentage of convertibles will suffer from failures in this sliding panel; it is a very poor design. When the top is down, which is how ours spends most of the summer, there is way too much stress on the cord that pulls the panel to the rear, hindsight I should have shortened the spring,(reduced the preload) in the cylinder under the panel.. The "pull" is also to one side, which aggravates the chance of the pins leaving their tracks..
Should have taken pictures, sorry..
My cord had pulled out of the small cylinder and the panel stayed fwd.
With the 1/4 trm pnl out the cylinders were removed.
The tracks were not broken.
2 snap hooks hold the end cap on, released with a small screwdriver, LOTS of preload on the spring!
Piston remained in the bottom, made a wire hook and pulled it out.
Embarrassed to say, but could not see how the cord had been attached; looked at the longer cylinder but quite different.. (maybe lost a piece??)
Pondered for awhile, then drilled 2 1/16in through piston in the flat areas under the 'O' ring, made a loop with some soft steel locking wire to hold the loop on the cord, used a piece of wire insulation on it to make it more friendly to the string..
The piston has a very small bleed hole, they call it a damper, and this fix will have increased the air flow, but the stroke is so short and the top frame going up speed is so slow that in my opinion any dampng is just about meaningless..
Anyway, it is all back together and working fine.. for now
Now to think about why the drivers door does not lock..
The following users liked this post:
kj07xk (05-19-2017)
#9
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Naperville, Illinois USA
Posts: 4,571
Received 1,893 Likes
on
1,284 Posts
#10
No, only the int coloured piece has to come off. There is a squarish cover over the torx screw at the back end, mine was hanging off and easy to remove, now it is back in correctly it will be way more difficult to remove without damaging the panel, but it is way down out of sight, I *** u me someone was in there before. The clips pop out easily. The actual 1/4 trim also released very easily from its 4 clips. Both seat backs are joined and come out together.
Not something to be afraid of for sure, I think the top going up would just push it forward without the other spring cylinder and a piece of elastic hooked to the top frame would pull it back to the top down position, the Jaguar design is a bit wackey imho...
Cheers
Not something to be afraid of for sure, I think the top going up would just push it forward without the other spring cylinder and a piece of elastic hooked to the top frame would pull it back to the top down position, the Jaguar design is a bit wackey imho...
Cheers
#12
#14
#15
#17
Found one!
After a couple of hours of on-line searching, I found ONE site that even showed the part:
https://www.sngbarratt.com/us/#!/Eng...IBLE-PORTFOLIO
You have to navigate down through the various levels of break-out drawings, first to:
* Interior Trim and Linings ->
* Quarter Casings ->
* Quarter Casing Rear Convertible Portfolio
and it is part #10.
All the other sites I checked, and there were about a dozen, when I got to that picture, the cover plate part wasn't shown. This place lists it for about $220. I found one on ebay after searching for the C2P21070 number, but it was tan and in Italy.
I'm going to try a little harder to make the one I have work before I dump 220 bucks...
https://www.sngbarratt.com/us/#!/Eng...IBLE-PORTFOLIO
You have to navigate down through the various levels of break-out drawings, first to:
* Interior Trim and Linings ->
* Quarter Casings ->
* Quarter Casing Rear Convertible Portfolio
and it is part #10.
All the other sites I checked, and there were about a dozen, when I got to that picture, the cover plate part wasn't shown. This place lists it for about $220. I found one on ebay after searching for the C2P21070 number, but it was tan and in Italy.
I'm going to try a little harder to make the one I have work before I dump 220 bucks...
#18
The following users liked this post:
qcktvr (08-13-2018)