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Made it to the service center with zero problems!!!.. No leaks!!!!... The tech said that is strange there is no leak?... The AC came on automatically as it's near 80F.. Still no issues!!!
Did they pressure check the system? And why was there coolant on the floor in your pics?
You may want to measure things, like the lowest point on the car's nose rearward to the centerline of the front wheels. Not on the outside of the car either, more towards the center where the ramps would be closest together.
There may be a reason they use a Jeep in the ad...
Paid just under 200.00… But you can find them cheaper I’ve found… Great alternative to Floor jacks… and they also have built in Hydraulic jacks with tire plates noted in PICT.
Ok, I was charged 177.00 Just to be told it’s the water pump… I brought the car home and will be ordering the water pump,O-Ring,and supposedly I have to also replace 2 pipes??? Would anyone know which pipes those might be?….
Ok, I was charged 177.00 Just to be told it’s the water pump… I brought the car home and will be ordering the water pump,O-Ring,and supposedly I have to also replace 2 pipes??? Would anyone know which pipes those might be?….
If you check the workshop manual or a parts diagram from an online supplier you will soon see which are the hoses which connect to the water pump ..... but can I advise caution? From the questions you have asked in this thread, my advice would be to tackle the water pump replacement with a friend who has a little more knowledge about car mechanics. Replacing the water pump on a modern car with a packed engine bay is definitely not the 30 minute job which it used to be in the 1970's.
I do have a mechanic friend who can help me with the water pump replacement, Richard... Thank you... I kinda knew it was the water pump after reading about how many of them fail...
That’s an impressive ramp kit, but is the angle too steep to clear your baby’s nose?
This is the water pump I need, but there is some kind of tube, this connects with and others have had leaks after replacing as you need to replace this other piece as well but I can’t figure what they are talking about?.. I’m in the process of purchasing parts.
The ad for the ramps doesn’t provide enough measurements to determine the ramp angle and length, so impossible to tell if you’ll scrape the nose. Wood pre-ramp, as suggested above may be required.
Hey everyone,
I actually purchased a GEBA water pump as I was told by a highly reputable euro technician that Gates may fail... also GEBA has a cast iron impeller opposed to most being plastic!!!.. I also ordered an aluminum oil cooler pipe that goes on the back of the water pump pict. One... I purchased a brass elbow port for the Radiator outlet hose.. As you can see that plastic elbow is noted for breaking off after years off service.. I'm thinking of using JB Weld cement to affix the elbow to the water pump so no leakage can occur, and then a worm clamp on the rubber hose lead that fits to the middle of the radiator outlet hose.
i have one question?.. The garage charged me 177.00 just to tell me I had to replace the water pump without using dye.. There's only 2 torx screws and 2 washer nuts holding the bottom engine cover on.. So how can I be charged for a dye charge when no dye was used??? I know the service advisor works on commission because he was in a great mood after I handed over my Debit card!!!.. I'm sick of being ripped off!!.. And this is the same dealership FORD that basically takes care of my XK as Trevor is a good mechanic.
A couple things. You called out the service department here on the forum for ripping you off. Did you call out the service manager when you were there? They probably have a minimum charge for service. Since we don't see what they saw, you must have agreed with them at the time as you bought parts.
You can check their work yourself. Most auto parts stores rent out coolant pressure testers for no charge. That and some dye would confirm the leak is at the water pump. The dye is probably $10.
I would do that before I assumed they were correct and swap out a water pump. They are notorious for failing but others have many miles with no issue.
Also, if it's me, I wouldn't use JB Weld. The car is what, 14 years old? The OEM parts gave you 14 years. Nothing wrong with that.
A couple things. You called out the service department here on the forum for ripping you off. Did you call out the service manager when you were there? They probably have a minimum charge for service. Since we don't see what they saw, you must have agreed with them at the time as you bought parts.
You can check their work yourself. Most auto parts stores rent out coolant pressure testers for no charge. That and some dye would confirm the leak is at the water pump. The dye is probably $10.
I would do that before I assumed they were correct and swap out a water pump. They are notorious for failing but others have many miles with no issue.
Also, if it's me, I wouldn't use JB Weld. The car is what, 14 years old? The OEM parts gave you 14 years. Nothing wrong with that.
As far as OEM parts sometimes you wonder where those are made these days too.. I won't touch BOSCH for that exact reason as most are made in CHINA and I'm the most opposed when it comes to their QC(non existent) and shotty work. The GEBA water pump is made in Germany and was recommended by a Jaguar mechanic over the OEM as Jaguars water pump is a 3 section design.. Hence leaks...
As far as doing any kind of work myself on the car I can not, due to a spinal disease... So I'm kind of left to the lions. I trust the technician, its the advisor I'm sketchy with.. When I said I was taking the car home he chirped right up and said you'll have to pay the dye charge today.. Which I agreed but after noticing there was no difference in coolant color I called the advisor who changed his story after asking the tech. So what was the dye charge for?.. I understand a service fee for finding the leak, but 177.00???.. That's ridiculous.
BUT!!! BUT-BUT-BUT!!!!!
Remember there is that insulated tray underneath the car! With that much dripping, it's probably saturated and the drip location can NOT (necessarily) be located by where it drops onto the floor or ground.
CeeJay,
You were correct on the engine cover being saturated!!!.. After the diagnosis on the 21st. Of October I put the cover in the hatchback with plenty of shop absorbing pads so nothing leaked on the carpet.. I've had it leaning against the garage wall with plenty of the absorbent squares.. It's now dry.
What difference dos it make which way the coolant is flowing?
Since your changing the water pump there is whole bunch of plastic stuff that can be replaced with lifetime Aluminum versions?
Your car is old and when you do this work it's not uncommon to create another leak.
The two front pipes, thermostat housing and rear water manifold are all leak prone plastic and we now have after market Aluminum parts to replace them.
This Euro-Amp kit is very complete plus has pictures of the parts. Note you already have the water pump to oil cooler brick tube in your post. That is another plastic part that has been upgraded.
Many threads on the forum about these pipes with pictures.
Do some searches and remember that the 5.0L in your car is the same as was used in the F-type, XJ and XF so those forums also have lots of great information.
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Last edited by clubairth1; Nov 2, 2024 at 02:16 PM.
What difference dos it make which way the coolant is flowing?
Since your changing the water pump there is whole bunch of plastic stuff that can be replaced with lifetime Aluminum versions?
Your car is old and when you do this work it's not uncommon to create another leak.
The two front pipes, thermostat housing and rear water manifold are all leak prone plastic and we now have after market Aluminum parts to replace them.
This Euro-Amp kit is very complete plus has pictures of the parts. Note you already have the water pump to oil cooler brick tube in your post. That is another plastic part that has been upgraded.
Many threads on the forum about these pipes with pictures.
Do some searches and remember that the 5.0L in your car is the same as was used in the F-type, XJ and XF so those forums also have lots of great information.
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Thank you clubairth1!!..
I have the upgraded oil cooler pipe with 2 o-rings that will be fitted between the water pump and oil cooler housing pipe in the Manifold...
my question for the coolant flow was for the brass elbow that is fitted into the water pump from the thermostat pipe.. My concern is if the coolant flows downward into the water pump then the brass elbow would be sufficient- but if the coolant runs upward towards the thermostat pipe I feel the pressure will push the brass elbow out of the water pump hole as some people say they still get leaks with the brass elbow.. The plastic elbow seems a tighter fitment... I just want to update that plastic piece as it's prone to deterioration with the brass elbow.
I also ordered a new manifold gasket and the Coolant Outlet Flange as they say becomes brittle over time..
Thank you for the link to Euro AMP as I'm familiar with their site. Unfortunately no manufacturer has made the naturally aspirated Outlet Coolant Flange out of Aluminum.
Your right about that brass fitting? But the pressure is the same everywhere in the cooling system so if it's going to leak it will!
Several reports of the plastic collar and/or O-ring not being tight enough to hold the metal nipple in. So do watch out for that. Sometimes you need to mix and match what parts you have to get the best fit.
Yes I would use the plastic version if the brass one does not fit. This seems to be hit or miss too.
Yes sorry I forgot you have the NA 5.0L and that does not have all these parts out yet. There is hope as we have heard a vendor or two was considering it.
Your right about that brass fitting? But the pressure is the same everywhere in the cooling system so if it's going to leak it will!
Several reports of the plastic collar and/or O-ring not being tight enough to hold the metal nipple in. So do watch out for that. Sometimes you need to mix and match what parts you have to get the best fit.
Yes I would use the plastic version if the brass one does not fit. This seems to be hit or miss too.
Yes sorry I forgot you have the NA 5.0L and that does not have all these parts out yet. There is hope as we have heard a vendor or two was considering it.
Hope your repairs go well.
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What is your opinion on using JB Weld on the brass elbow fitted to the water pump?.. I purchased a GEBA as it was recommended by a Jaguar Technician here in Madison WI. He said they are far more superior as the impeller is a single molded piece, not spot welded metal.. I can't believe that some water pumps like gates using plastic for the impeller... I'm hoping that there is a resolve to the front crossover flange being made from aluminum for N.A. 5.0L's... I guess I'll just stick to the plastic elbow, my car is a 2011 so 14 years with 105,000 miles and no issues until now is pretty good.. I'm almost positive that it's either the crossover failing and filling the valley then leaking out, or the oil cooler pipe?... Regardless I'm switching the water pump out for safe measure. I'm also replacing the oil cooler pipe with aluminum and using 2 o-rings for the replacement...
