So, our duckbill has been massaged, cajoled, everything except cut all the way off. My wife even got her thin finger up into the split of the duckbill. No water. Mind you, our AC is full and sizzling on the turns and acceleration. I believe that, since our jag lives outside under trees in our driveway (until we can get a garage built next year) that debris falls from the trees and gets in the fresh-air intake and has clogged the whole tube up, not just the tip of it.
I called the dealer. $1300. I just can't do it. My question is... How far past this picture do you have to go, to get to (and then replace) the condensate drain?

 

Not sure how you attack this from the inside, and I really doubt it is external debris clogging it, as that stuff would have to get through the cabin air filter to get in there.
Guess it could be clogged with fungal growth if you've had water in there for some period of time.
I understand that there is some sort of foam inside the airbox where the duckbill is, and perhaps it has broken down and pieces are clogging the drain.
Since you know where the duckbill is, and can feel it, I'd be inclined to try and run a stiff wire up there, maybe even a pipe-cleaner (you know, that twisted wire with bristles), to try to break through the clog.

 

HOLY SMOKES! That's impressive! I'd like to take my dash off just to get the leather back on it properly. Did you have instructions to get this far?

 

This photo was copied and pasted from another thread. It is not my Jag, but the Jag owned by the gut who started the thread about how to remove the dash in order to get it recovered. I will find the thread and bring the link here.

ETA: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...8/#post2005714

 

IDK, it seems to me like the cabin air filter would be well above the "waterline" and on the air's way to the vents. My wife could barely get into the tube, but getting an pipe cleaner or some sort of wire... I thought of that, but there is just no maneuverability under there. It's not possible. At this point, I'm willing to do what the dealer is charging $1300 to do, and that way I can make sure the thing is done right, and we don't go broke. I am pretty handy with mechanics, but would feel more comfortable with a manual or a "how-to" thread.

 

You should be able to pop the fan speed resistor module out of the bottom of the box by the fan and see if anything slimy is there. I agree that the filter should keep any trash out of the system.

 

Ahh, now after some research as to where exactly the filter IS, I can see why you said that. IF... and that's a big if, it is in place, the box should be free of debris.

I may experiment with a coat-hanger and my endoscope.

 

Update:
Regarding the filter keeping trash out, I now have to agree, as I opened the cover under the hood and saw that not only is the filter sealed up pretty good, but the opening for the air is angled DOWN. I attempted to pull the filter to look at it, but the filter would not come out alone. It wanted the front-side cover to come out with it (seemed attached in some way) and I couldn't get the front-side cover up past the outside airbox frame. I felt like I was going to tear up the filter if I tried any harder.
I was able to position the endoscope this morning to get a good view of the horizontal hole, and the duckbill up inside, then I ran a coat-hanger (shaped kind of like the cut-off tool we make for this job) up inside the hole and nudged the duckbill. It took a few tries to get it the right length/angle and to get it all done without insulation dust falling on the mirror, but I was finally able to get good pressure on the duckbill with the tip of the coat-hanger and push it up. To my surprise, it lifted away almost completely, only hanging on by about a 1/3rd of the drain tube on the top. In all my struggles, I had almost cut completely through that damned thing. THIS IS NOT GOOD. This means that the clog must be up inside the tube, or possibly where the tube is attached to and exits the airbox. I guess the dash will have to come out, weather that means the dealer and $1300 (estimate over the phone this past Thursday), or I do it myself.

Again I ask, how much past the first pic in this thread does one have to go to get to and remove/recondition/replace the airbox? Are there ANY Jag techs that can answer that question? I know, "get a shop manual." And I will, but I'm looking for someone who has done it to give his or her opinion about length of time/trouble.

 

Shop manuals are in a sticky at the top of the X150 forum.

 

Is there a chance you can tape a length of 1/4" plastic air line to the probe and push it up into the tube. Then hit it with a blast of air and see if it unclogs?

 

I have an email into JaguarUSA as of yesterday. If they don't help out with some monetary compensation, I may try that. I'm hoping for about 50% of the $1300. I am going to insist on personally cutting the duckbill off before they install it. But if they say no, I will probably try the airline trick. GOOD THINKING!!!!

 

While mine is up on the stands today I took a look under the dash and didn't see a hose after peeling the carpet back. That sucker must be up where the floor meets the firewall. There is a plastic covering in the center of the hump at that spot so maybe that was it and it's hidden there. I assumed it would be lower. Also of note, the AC evaporator hangs lower than the air box so if it would ever lose its seal to the plastic it'll leak.

Notice the F type has the same drain configuration.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Complete-Da...frcectupt=true

I wonder how hard it would be to poke a clean out hole from the inside with a soldering iron and seal it up with silicone once done?

 

Would be nice if that is possible, I have no problem now but I couldn't see it with an endoscope from the engine bay so don't know if it's cut or not.