Wheel alignment done, I gave the guys the GT specs and asked for that or as close as possible.



So this is what they got me;



I honestly didn't expect they would be able to get -1.2º camber out of it, let alone -1.26º

It's raining here again so haven't literally driven it around the block and no further, so i'll have to update some more once I have some time behind the wheel.

 

Something for the 5.0L XKR owners to think about.

The E-Diff in the XKR-S GT used the F-Type calibration, one of our gurus figured out a way to load that calibration into the XKR & regular XKR-S, it's also possible in the XFR / XF-Supercharged and the XJ SuperSport / XJR.
I drove a 600hp tuned XKR this week, that had been loaded with that software in the E-Diff. And it's just, wow....
Basically instead of controlled slip it just locks the rear axles together, feels very much like an old-school mechanical clutch plate LSD. It locks instantly at the first hint of wheelspin.
This means it also won't overheat the diff during track work, which was an issue with these things, because they slipped, not locked, the increased heat from the slipping of the clutch plates was the problem.
Some tests (on the street) with Dragy saw the 0-100kmh / 0-60mph times drop about 0.25s on average with this software loaded.

 

This tune will also fit to 5.0SC XJ's

 

So, you tease us with a tidbit and don't let us know HOW to do this????

 

What's the point in saying this without saying how to have it. You're like the hottest girl in high school wearing the sexiest and least amount of clothing possible.

 

Seems pretty straightforward there fella's, find yourself a jaguar guru, have said person then acquire the XKR-S GT calibration and load it into your car.

To Cambo....

 

I managed to find a pair of the XKR-S (early) knuckles, £300 each from a wreck, vs the £4300 each that they are new from the UK...

Should be here next week.

 

My XKR came with XKR-S knuckles and a lot more with the Dynamic-R package...

 

These things turned up, looking like crap with 70'000 miles of grime and corrosion from the UK's salted roads.

Had to use a hydraulic press to pop the wheel hubs out, they were rusted to hell.



However, it's quite apparent why these things are so damn expensive.

There is not a single casting mark on them. Every surface is machined. The standard XK/XKR ones are cast.

So these are completely CNC machined, from either a rough forging, or a solid billet.

The two extra lugs are in a plane, and have threads in them, I would say that's where it was bolted to the table of the CNC mill.

I'm getting them glass bead blasted, hopefully this won't take away the milling marks on the surfaces.





I guess on the later version they cut those threaded lugs off after the machining was done.

 

Oh, and something else to mention, the tie rod ends are different.

The XK/XKR has an M12 thread on the ball joint of the tie rod end, the XKR-S has M14 thread.

So I had to get the XKR-S tie rod ends too.

 

How much of a weight difference if any?

 

According to the technical blurb these are 30% heavier than the standard ones, but they really aren't heavy anyway. Can easily pick one up in your hand with the hub removed. I'd say the hubs are actually heavier than the vertical links.

 

Could you picture the tie rod - what exactly is this part. Thanks

 

Part numbers C2Z5517 & C2Z5518, these have an M14 thread.

 

 

Any noticeable difference in handling/steering after a change?

 

I’m not sure what benefit there would be to thicker outer steering tie rods. Even the Ftype uses the smaller ones.

 

Are they steel or are they aluminum?
I just figured they'd be aluminum cuz thicker. If so, they would weigh a bit less.

 

The standard are steel, the others alloy. Not certain how a few ounces would
make an appreciable difference though.

 

How does one go about uploading the E-Diff software for the XKR-S GT? I would much prefer a mechanical LSD feel to the car under load. Plus it would make elevens much more evenly.