Hi all. My duckbill issue has not gone away, I’ve tried many things suggested in forums and some own inventions with part disassembly and coathanger wire. The problem is still there. So I’ll have to get it fixed this winter and I plan to do that myself.

The big question is, from above or from below? Should I take the dash apart or should I lower the transmission? I ask for updated information and please, don’t get me wrong, but please only answer if you have done this work yourself/have 1st hand knowledge. I’m not asking for hear-say, and no “my friendly garage told me”.

So, after having read the forum about this, and found some inconsistent views, here’s what I’d like to know from those that have done it themselves:
From above:
Any particular problems taking all this apart? I assume it’s in the service manual? Does the A/C has to be taken apart so it needs refill, or can it be pushed to one side still filled while the duckbill is replaced? Mine is a LHD car, any issue with that? Hours used?
From below:
Is it “just” to remove crossmember and lower rear of transmission? How many inches to get room? Will exhausts attached to the engine fight this, risk of something cracking? Any other things to know? I know it has to be cold to be able to work on. Will this enable one to replace the duckbill with the newer version, or only give room to cut etc in the current duckbill? Hours used?

Anybody reading this that have done both, which do you prefer?

Thanks

 

Reading from my phone, so I don’t see your signature, but by searching your previous posts, you seem to have a 2007 XKR. Is that the car with the duckbill problem?
Just asking, as I could only comment on having done it to my 2007 XK.

 

Yes, it's a 2007 XKR

 

I've done about ten of them, all from above, removing the dash assembly. Dash comes out, Heater/cooler box can be moved to the side enough to access the drain.

Yes to disconnecting AC and heater hoses, blow some air in the hoses before you remove the dash and you will have less coolant on the floor.

Tried several times from below without success.

 

Thanks
Just to make sure, you say the heater/cooler can be pushed to one side, but still one would have to disconnect both heater and AC lines, and then later reconnect and fill again?

Tried from below, have you tried to lower geargox or "just" tried to work around it?

 

Yes, the box has to be pulled to the rear and then you can angle it to the side to reach the drain.

Lowered trans as far as it would go, no success

 

The duckbill issue seems to have lots of stories. I agree with this posting that it is hard to figure out what exactly is the best approach. On the XKR2008, there is very little room to get anything down by the firewall. I have an endoscope, but cannot find the duckbill. I continue to wonder if lots of the postings get confused with year of car and XK vs XKR's
Some photos, drawings and really good details on the XKR would be helpful. I am enclosing a photo with a ruler laid out. If someone can suggest where the opening is that could provide access, using the numbers on the ruler, that would be helpful. Also, exactly how far down and how far inward, dimensional, would be helpful. I have not seen much chat about removing the turbo cross over pipe, Is that because that is not very effective or is it just really difficult to execute.
The dealer says the trans and exhaust both have to be moved to get a knife at the duckbull. Is that fact or just the easier, more expensive process. Some seem to say that dropping the trans is all that is required.
The forum is very helpful and I am hoping not to write the big check to the dealer, now that it is fall/winter, I have lots of time to address this issue.
To me, it is insane that Jaguar has not developed a special tool that could allow the mechanics to find their way to the duckbill and slice it off, it must be something that will eventually come around to all cars, truly a design defect.

 

Howell, it's all solved, 30 minute procedure. Duckbill is in the middle at "740" marking. But read this:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-doing-222930/

 

Google not got any info ?

 

See my tuto (french) for XKR 2007 HERE

 

Is this a problem with the 14MY XKR? This "duckbill" thing seeks to have caused a lot of head aches. Super poor design.

 

Not likely. Mainly the 4.2L cars, and some first year production of the 5.0L cars, until the design was changed.
Not saying it can’t happen to you, but less likely.

 

Google will take you here =]

 

Indeed, but as kj07xk points out, this was mostly a first generation problem.

Further back-reading said a new design was installed around VIN B34499, and that some early 2010s might still have it...

 

I can confirm that my 2010 VIN 34162 was the old design... Now its the new and improved shredded design..

 

...

 

If it helps. Well, it helped me understand the issue. Attached is picture with the AC unit removed. The duckbill drain is circled in yellow, and the hole it sticks through circled in red. Looking at it, it seems obvious that in a warm humid environment where it rarely dries out, it would get gunked up and clogged with moss. I’m surprised that rather than having to remove the dash and the AC unit, or dropping the tranny, Jag would have developed a tool to get to it. I could imagine something like an extended orthoscopic type tool, with a moveable end that could be used to enter the orfice and clear it out. ‘cause some of u# have big catcher mit paws that won’t fit there.

 

And from the engine bay side

 

What a crappy idea and application that duck bill was.

 

Absolutely ridiculous, driving your passenger, going around a corner and then getting their feet drenched in aircon run off . yuk ....