XK / XKR ( X150 ) 2006 - 2014

Exhaust X pipe and XK mod help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 09-15-2017, 08:07 AM
jahummer's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,070
Received 2,242 Likes on 1,411 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Stuart S
The FrickenFast cats are $1,750, plus shipping. https://frickenfast.us/t/high-flow-race-catalyst How did you do the cats and x-pipe for under $1K? Whose cats did you use?
A pair of these
Amazon Amazon
, 4 bungs, pair of flanges and some pipe and labour.
 
The following users liked this post:
Stuart S (09-15-2017)
  #22  
Old 09-15-2017, 09:20 AM
Ranchero50's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 2,936
Received 969 Likes on 654 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Stuart S
The FrickenFast cats are $1,750, plus shipping. https://frickenfast.us/t/high-flow-race-catalyst How did you do the cats and x-pipe for under $1K? Whose cats did you use?
Exhaust doesn't car how purdy the pipes are... 409 stainless will last almost as long as 304 and is much easier to fabricate with a Mig welder vs. Tig process. 409 is what the factory uses.

Jahummer, I went with the Magnaflow 59975 spun metallic cat because one end come out at a 45` angle. Made fitment easier.
 
  #23  
Old 09-15-2017, 09:40 AM
jahummer's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,070
Received 2,242 Likes on 1,411 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Ranchero50

Jahummer, I went with the Magnaflow 59975 spun metallic cat because one end come out at a 45` angle. Made fitment easier.
I went back and forth on which version but was concerned the angle would be wrong and I'd have another bend to make so I went with the straight. Now you've confirmed it would work that may be easier.
 
  #24  
Old 09-15-2017, 10:26 AM
Ranchero50's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 2,936
Received 969 Likes on 654 Posts
Default

It mimics the factory cat angles but it's @ 1/3 the size.
 
  #25  
Old 09-15-2017, 10:31 AM
Rey's Avatar
Rey
Rey is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 449
Received 144 Likes on 100 Posts
Default

CARB prohibition of aftermarket cats is not based/concerned with actual performance/emission control. It is simply a blanket ban on any aftermarket exhaust cats and forward components.
 
The following users liked this post:
ralphwg (09-15-2017)
  #26  
Old 09-15-2017, 11:47 AM
Ranchero50's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 2,936
Received 969 Likes on 654 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Rey
CARB prohibition of aftermarket cats is not based/concerned with actual performance/emission control. It is simply a blanket ban on any aftermarket exhaust cats and forward components.
No, you are wrong. Any replacement cat needs the CARB certification in Kaliforniastan which adds @ 30% to the cost. Check out Summit Racing. Magnaflow does have CARB cert cats. I don't think they have many generic performance ones though.
 
The following users liked this post:
ralphwg (09-15-2017)
  #27  
Old 09-15-2017, 04:50 PM
u102768's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 2,941
Received 1,484 Likes on 907 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Ranchero50
Jahummer, I went with the Magnaflow 59975 spun metallic cat because one end come out at a 45` angle. Made fitment easier.
Originally Posted by jahummer
A pair of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1, 4 bungs, pair of flanges and some pipe and labour.
I am in the market for some cats to try and get rid of the fuel smell that seems to permeate everything since I went catless but neither of these mention cell count so do either of you know what the ones you bought are?
 
  #28  
Old 09-15-2017, 05:13 PM
Ranchero50's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 2,936
Received 969 Likes on 654 Posts
Default

If I had to venture a guess I'd say 200. They have a spun metallic core vs. ceramic like the old ones so they have larger openings between the honeycomb. The overall diameter is 4" which gives @ 3.75" with the cushion wrap between the core and the shell. The factory core has a much larger cross section but is double the length (two cores, pre cat and main cat). I went from the Magnaflows to an OEM '11 Mustang cat which is similar to the stock Jaguar one and lost about 1/2 the amplitude from the exhaust. Before on the interstate I could back off the throttle and cars 2-3 car lengths ahead of me would get out of the way thanks to the cackle. Very race car sounding but it was just too over the top.
 
The following users liked this post:
u102768 (09-16-2017)
  #29  
Old 09-15-2017, 08:29 PM
jahummer's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,070
Received 2,242 Likes on 1,411 Posts
Default

Yes, they are 200
cell
 
The following users liked this post:
u102768 (09-16-2017)
  #30  
Old 09-15-2017, 10:19 PM
Rey's Avatar
Rey
Rey is offline
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Salem, OR
Posts: 449
Received 144 Likes on 100 Posts
Default

Magnaflow does have some CA-certified cats, but the only cats offered for my '07 XK are #51948 and #51954, which are not CA certified. These are drop in. I did not check other years.
 
  #31  
Old 09-15-2017, 11:46 PM
tberg's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 4,978
Received 2,540 Likes on 1,411 Posts
Default

No one that I have researched (and that's quite a few) makes a CARB certified replacement for the X150. I've conversed with Stuart at Velocity AP, and he has a unit certified for an Aston Vantage that he believes could be fabricated and modified to work in a 5.0L X150, but he doesn't have anything off the shelf.
 
  #32  
Old 09-29-2017, 06:26 AM
benfbrown's Avatar
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 102
Received 53 Likes on 20 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Swisstone
I've seen most of the threads about the exhaust mod's and fuse 19.

I've just been lucky enough to get a centre section from a XK with the one resonator box so contemplating what to do now!

I'm not sure if to just fit that first to see what the difference is or just go for the the full X pipe?

I do want a louder 'Aston' type sound but i definately don't want any drone on motorway driving. Currently got fuse 19 out.
(my Subaru was an awful drone!)

Couple of questions:
1. Wouldn't the swap affect back pressure and would it need a re-map?
2. How easy is it to get the standard centre section off without damaging it?
3. Any drone?
4. Where is the best place to get the small X pipe in the UK? is it a weld in job or bolt in?

Cheers for your thoughts!
Sorry, I am a little late to the party on this one. I did the XK center pipe swap in my garage with the car on jack stands and it was easy. It is truly a bolt on part and I was able to get the original off with no damage so that it could be refitted if desired in the future.

Very happy with the sound with fuse 19 pulled; wouldn't want it any louder.
 
  #33  
Old 09-29-2017, 09:03 AM
Swisstone's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: hull
Posts: 240
Received 36 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by benfbrown
Sorry, I am a little late to the party on this one. I did the XK center pipe swap in my garage with the car on jack stands and it was easy. It is truly a bolt on part and I was able to get the original off with no damage so that it could be refitted if desired in the future.

Very happy with the sound with fuse 19 pulled; wouldn't want it any louder.
Thats good to hear you are pleased with it! Mine is in the garage now getting that done and new ARB bushes. Hoping for a good result to!
 
  #34  
Old 09-29-2017, 01:35 PM
Swisstone's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: hull
Posts: 240
Received 36 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Wow wow wow!
pipe now fitted and what a difference. Really happy. Definitely wouldn't want it any louder but a lovely deep sound followed by the end rasp. Seems not to loud when just on the motorway as well. Fuse is out so also got the option to put it back in. Video on my iPhone doesn't do it justice.

On the down side, had the front ARB bushes changed as a 'loose type slight knock' when over rough road. Hard to pin point as sound can move and definitely not just at one side. Shocks seem fine and one side has a new drop link as I snapped stud tightening it! Specialist can't pinpoint either! Bumper has been off recently but can't think it's a panel rattle type noise?. Could it be engine mounts? Really stumped.
 
  #35  
Old 09-29-2017, 03:52 PM
Ranchero50's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 2,936
Received 969 Likes on 654 Posts
Default

I would take a good hard look at the front caliper retaining springs. Another member suffered a long time before realizing one of the shops 'damaged' the spring and it was allowing the pads to rattle on road bumps. Pretty painful read with two shops failing to repair it and he found it himself.
 
  #36  
Old 09-30-2017, 03:16 AM
Swisstone's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: hull
Posts: 240
Received 36 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Ranchero50
I would take a good hard look at the front caliper retaining springs. Another member suffered a long time before realizing one of the shops 'damaged' the spring and it was allowing the pads to rattle on road bumps. Pretty painful read with two shops failing to repair it and he found it himself.
cheers, worth a look. I was sure it was ARB bushes as seemed to be coming from that area and noise seemed to move about. Drivers drop link has been changed but could be other side I guess but specialist I'm sure would have checked that. I'm not sure what's involved with removing the bumper but it started around that time. Looks alot of front under tray bolts to look! The fan housing fastened to the rad could also be a possibility? Could do with some special equipment to pin point area, I tried fastening my iPhone under there but just got engine noise! 😂
 
  #37  
Old 10-01-2017, 11:30 AM
Swisstone's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: hull
Posts: 240
Received 36 Likes on 22 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Ranchero50
I would take a good hard look at the front caliper retaining springs. Another member suffered a long time before realizing one of the shops 'damaged' the spring and it was allowing the pads to rattle on road bumps. Pretty painful read with two shops failing to repair it and he found it himself.
Ranchero, I've just checked the pads and noticed I can move them up and down and the metal-metal does make a noise. The driver is noisier than the passenger side but both do move. I changed the pads about 6 months ago and maybe just didn't notice the noise until now?? They are mintex pads. Is this what you were meaning? The retaining spring is pushing from the side though and the pads move up and down against the round sliders so not sure how could stop it unless get tighter fitting pads?

Got a video but only seems to let me attach pictures on here?
 

Last edited by Swisstone; 10-01-2017 at 12:00 PM.
  #38  
Old 10-01-2017, 12:38 PM
Ranchero50's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 2,936
Received 969 Likes on 654 Posts
Default

Post the video up on Youtube. Mine don't move even when prying on them with a screwdriver and the spring was a mother to install because the spring pressure is so high. If yours was easy, then I think that's your culprit.
 
  #39  
Old 10-01-2017, 01:20 PM
Swisstone's Avatar
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: hull
Posts: 240
Received 36 Likes on 22 Posts
Default


Pad move video, one finger top and one bottom with medium force. Hoping this is it? Will have to look at bending retaining spring so tighter then?
 

Last edited by Swisstone; 10-01-2017 at 01:28 PM.
  #40  
Old 10-01-2017, 01:30 PM
Ranchero50's Avatar
Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Hagerstown MD
Posts: 2,936
Received 969 Likes on 654 Posts
Default

Can't do that to mine. The spring appears to squeeze the frame and caliper around the pad so they can't move. It's a vertical force, not horizontal like it was holding the pads close to the rotor.
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:28 AM.