Hello, changing my dads brake pads (standard brakes) on his 2009 XKR, we fully unbolted the caliper before knowing about the dreaded spring clip. We can't find a straight answer what the torque specs are for the 4 T55 bolts and the 9mm guide pins. We've been looking through the workshop manual pdf, they only give the torque spec for the "caliper retaining bolts" but the diagram words the bolts differently... it's confusing. Are the caliper retaining bolts the T55 torx bolts? They also don't give a torque spec for the guide pins. Thank you

 

Same as everything..... Snug, then one extra "oof!".

 

I have removed and replaced the front 380 mm calipers, pads and rotors on my XFR and F-Type so many times now I have lost count, and never once have I bothered with any torque specs let alone used a torque wrench and I have had zero problems every time. Other than of course refitting those damnable anti-rattle clips but I eventually came across a relatively quick, easy and fool proof method.
My torque spec on all bolts has been pretty much as Cee Jay has said, "two grunts and a fart" while using a fairly beefy 1/2" socket driver, so a smidge under RFT.

 

Thanks for the replies. Snug and a fart it is. We've been seeing 100+ ft.lbs which seems way too damn high for a torx bit

 

26 lb.ft rings a bell. I’ll check the workshop manual in the morning.

 

I never torque mine, two grunts and they are done on my Alcons.

 

The XK150 workshop manual specifies 58nm for the guide pins ("caliper retaining bolts"), and 115nm for the caliper mounting bracket ("anchor plate") in case anyone comes across this looking for specs. We're satisfied with 2 grunts, a fart, and some threadlocker for the 4 t55 torx bolts. Still would like to know what the specs are if anyone knows for sure. Replacing the anti-rattle spring clips was the only PITA. Would like to know your fool proof method, OzXFR. Also for anyone wondering the guide pins do not need to be touched to remove the caliper. Thanks again for the replies

 

How do these compare to the 360mm single piston , I've found a set (twin piston caliper, will go yellow as nice contrast to my xk) online , quite well priced and looking to upgrade although ill be using the standard rotor (non cross drilled) ...ps sorry for hijacking thread guys

 

I cadged that method from another member here a few years ago, I can't remember who but I am forever grateful and it works:
Use large zip ties, one on each end of the clip.
Push the two "feet" into place, takes a bit of effort but not that hard to do.
The central plate will now be sitting about 1 cm below where it needs to go but sitting loosely under no tension.
Tie each end/foot of the clip in place, near the end, through the calliper bracket, using a zip tie. Tie them nice and tight so the "feet" can't spring back out.
Then grab a big boofy flat blade screwdriver, stick the end of it under the middle part of the spring (below the plate), and lever the plate "up and in".
You may need to push/tap the plate back firmly onto the calliper bracket.
Before I learned of this zip tie method I really struggled to hold the feet in place while I levered away with the screwdriver, it wasn't hard to do with a helper (with strong fingers) holding the feet in place but on my own it was damn near impossible, one or both of those feet would spring out every damn time and I would be back to square one!

 

I guess you are talking about the 355 mm front brakes (single piston), same as I had on my old XFS.
The 380 mm brakes (twin piston) are better (and much bigger!), more stopping power and less fade.
And yes you will need new brackets, rotors, pads and splash shields as well but everything bolts straight up with no hassles.
If you are instead talking about the relative ease (or not!) of refitting the anti-rattle clips then yes, the 355 version is a doddle compared to the (previously for me) PITA 380 version.

 

Testing my memory wasn't sure if they were 355mm or 360mm single piston , nevertheless yes the 380mm once I started researching I didn't realise they were actually quite common across the entire jaguar range , some of the f types could be optioned up with 380mm up front whilst retaining the 326mm rotors in the rear ..not a huge project but it will definitely be the icing on the cake for my xk

 

Yep, the 380 and 355 fronts and the 376 and 326 rears are the exact same brakes right across Jag range with a couple of exceptions - the rear rotors are the same but the calipers and pads can differ due to different EPB setups.
The F-Type came in three flavours of brakes (putting aside the super expensive carbon ceramics):
Performance - 355 front and 326 rear, standard on the base V6.
High Performance - 380 front and 326 rear, standard on the V6S (wot mine had until I DIY upgraded the rears to 376).
Super Performance - 380 front and 376 rear, standard on the R and optional on the V6S.

 

Essentially I'll have the high performance package on mine then, so many options on the f type which is fantastic for those who are looking to retro-fit . Did you
go with grooved/crossed drilled rotors ????

 

I had a full set of after-market slotted and cross drilled rotors on the XFR, only about 12 months old when I bought the F-Type and barely worn at all.
My plan was to put the OEM style rotors back on the XFR (which I did) and move the slotted and drilled rotors over to the F-Type, but then I learned to my dismay that the F-Type had only the High Performance brakes so the piddly 326s on the rear. Which meant that I could not swap over the 386 rear rotors from the XFR as the 386 rotors do not fit/work with the 326 brackets and pads (and splash shields) even though they look identical, they are just a smidge different in dimensions . So I waited until a set of new 386 rear F-Type calipers (and brackets) came up for sale which was about two years after I bought the F-Type. They were a steal at 1/3 the price elsewhere so I jumped on them, bought new pads (fronts as well - Porterfield R4-S) and new splash shields, and fitted them up with the "old" slotted and drilled XFR rotors. A couple of minor hassles with the rears but easily fixed and the brakes have been fantastic ever since. The rotors and pads are still going strong all these years later (I don't drive a helluva lot these days) with plenty of meat still on both so I probably will never need to renew them.

 

I can always install large rotors down the track on rear even if there are 355mm , howcer the fronts are definitely in need of upgrade plus I'm contemplating selling next year so it could add a certain wow factor

 

 

Only contemplation at this stage so not going anywhere just yet lol !