How To: 07 rear brake pad replacement
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 477
Likes: 152
From: South Carolina
No problems with E brake?
I've read in another post that the battery needs to be disconnected before removing the rear pads/calipers. The manual says to use the SDD software to put the e-brake in service mode, or released. I know from experience on an 04 XJR, even though it had the second set of parking brake calipers being a Brembo system, not doing the job properly will destroy the e-brake servo because it can over-travel. My 04 now has no e-brake. Don't want the same happening to my 13 XKR. Now the Jaguar tech who services my car said easy-peasy DIY job, but didn't elaborate. That makes me think disconnecting the battery will work, simply requiring the e-brake calibration procedure on start up.
Comments and suggestions appreciated and thanks for reading.
jaghelp.com: 2007 Jaguar XK rear brake pads
Comments and suggestions appreciated and thanks for reading.
jaghelp.com: 2007 Jaguar XK rear brake pads
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 618
Likes: 197
From: Scotland
I've changed rear pads twice on my 2008, on neither occasion did I disconnect the battery or such like. My rear brakes and parking brake all still work fine. I guess if you wanted to be sure then as you say disconnecting the battery beforehand will invoke the parking brake reset procedure after you start up first time after reconnecting the battery.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 184
Likes: 38
From: SoCal
A few notes about working on brakes.
There is no reason to mess with the parking brake setup at all when doing a rear pad change on this vehicle. It could cause issues with the function and calibration of the assembly.
Never ever take a grinder to any part of your rotors unless you are bored and intend to immediately toss them in a trash can, I seriously can't stress this issue enough.
The two pink looking bolts do not need to removed unless you are changing out the rotors. Rotor removal is not needed for a pad swap. If rotors are being removed the caliper will already be removed from the caliper bracket making getting to those pink bolts much easier.
The spring clip on the pictures on the front of the caliper needs to be removed. Removal allows the caliper to slip away from the caliper bracket and makes it much easier to attach the special compression tool.
To remove the caliper from its caliper bracket there are two plastic caps on the back of the caliper. They are very easy to remove. Under the caps will be a 7mm allen bolt. Remove both these bolts. The caliper will be snug but can be slid from the caliper bracket leaving the pads in their correct place resting on the rotor. The caliper bracket actually holds the pads in notches.
Once you have seated the the special compression tool into the two notches and tightened the adjustment tube, do not futher tighten this while spinning the compression tool. The whole purpose of that tool is that it turns the piston at a constant rate while compressing the piston at the same time. It is very easy to hold the caliper in one hand while turning the compression tool with the other, no need for anything else.
There is no reason to mess with the parking brake setup at all when doing a rear pad change on this vehicle. It could cause issues with the function and calibration of the assembly.
Never ever take a grinder to any part of your rotors unless you are bored and intend to immediately toss them in a trash can, I seriously can't stress this issue enough.
The two pink looking bolts do not need to removed unless you are changing out the rotors. Rotor removal is not needed for a pad swap. If rotors are being removed the caliper will already be removed from the caliper bracket making getting to those pink bolts much easier.
The spring clip on the pictures on the front of the caliper needs to be removed. Removal allows the caliper to slip away from the caliper bracket and makes it much easier to attach the special compression tool.
To remove the caliper from its caliper bracket there are two plastic caps on the back of the caliper. They are very easy to remove. Under the caps will be a 7mm allen bolt. Remove both these bolts. The caliper will be snug but can be slid from the caliper bracket leaving the pads in their correct place resting on the rotor. The caliper bracket actually holds the pads in notches.
Once you have seated the the special compression tool into the two notches and tightened the adjustment tube, do not futher tighten this while spinning the compression tool. The whole purpose of that tool is that it turns the piston at a constant rate while compressing the piston at the same time. It is very easy to hold the caliper in one hand while turning the compression tool with the other, no need for anything else.
I will add to the above thread the following:
1. Disconnect the car battery for the auto reset function of the electronic parking brake to reset the EPB if changing the rotors and roll down driver's window.
2. Purchase & install the brake kit consisting of the spring retaining clip, caliper guide bolts with rubber boots.
3. Apply lock tight on the Caliper bolts.
4. Appy brake grease on the tabs of the pads in contact with the bracket
5. Apply grease on the caliber guide bolts so as they move freely inside the rubber boot.
5. Torque all bolts per specs.
6. Make sure to keep clean suface contact with pads and rotors.
7. Check for excess rotor run out in excess of .003 in. If excess try repositionong rotor on hubs. If not working, may have rust on hub in contact with rotor. Try metal brushing rust off. If not, might have warp rotors.
Labor is your time & money. I change rotors with new pad replacement as well as complete brake fluid flush. Its adds to ones driving pleasure and added pedal height. Remember, these are luxury cars and require lots of expensive maintenance.
Last edited by mberman; Jul 5, 2016 at 07:31 PM.
Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 91
Likes: 19
From: Milwaukee
OMG.... I didn't think you were reusing the rotor after grinding on it. So, this is just basically a "pad slap". In school they always tell you to replace the rotors and pads together. I suppose it's less important in the rears.
I'm about to do my rear pads and rotors as I still have OE pads in the rear, which are softer than my front pads, and make my rear wheels get twice as dirty as the fronts. So I'm replacing rear pads just for aesthetics, as weird as that sounds.
I'm about to do my rear pads and rotors as I still have OE pads in the rear, which are softer than my front pads, and make my rear wheels get twice as dirty as the fronts. So I'm replacing rear pads just for aesthetics, as weird as that sounds.
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