That's correct, removing the connection to one shock, will cause a fault, that will put all shocks on the stiffest setting. Ediff does not fault in this case. This fault needs power cycle in order to reset though, so if you were hypothetically able to disable one shock on a switch, flipping the switch back would not reset dynamic mode.

 

Thanks for the confirmation/ info, I'd be ok with the power Cycle. Personally its really just to enable stiffest setting for track type use where the road surface is a controlled environment. I have no problems re-enabling it with a restart before the drive home as I'd always be letting it cool down before shutting off after coming off the track. I'm headed out to the Nurburgring in a couple of weeks so might give this a test somewhere local before... (a road trip through england, france, belgium, germany etc never seems like a smart idea to try something new!)

 

I'm jealous! I'm headed to "Tail of the Dragon" in a few weeks and will be implementing a "track mode" setting through cats disable myself. I'm also going to start thinking about a way to alter setting without dynamic disable.

 

Good luck Andre, every time I've been to the dragon, the traffic was so thick I had a hard time even getting to the posted 30.

 

are there any other negatives when in dynamic disable?

 

I can't seem to find an exact comparison between sport and dynamic mode. Also, to say something is adjusted for Dynamic and also Sport, does not mean they are adjusted the same way.

But dynamic mode is supposed to change:
Steering response,
Shift points,
suspension stiffness
exhaust note,
throttle by wire settings,
and e-diff slip settings***.

I believe sport mode changes:
shift points,
throttle by wire settings,
and e-dff slip settings***

SO hypothetically, if you were to lose dynamic mode through fault,
BUT you put in sport mode,
You'd have stiffest setting,
Shift point parity,

BUT lose some steering effect, and exhaust note changes, and potentially an adjustment to e-diff ***IF there is a difference in e-diff between sport and dynamic mode

For me, i have an aftermarket exhaust, so I would hypothetically only lose steering ratio improvements, and ***MAYBE*** SOME type of slip setting.

This is all based on theory.

Also, I've never noticed a change in steering ratio, but I would love to know.

*** NOT sure about e-diff settings

 

Interesting, I always have dynamic on when I'm in sports or I just have dynamic on, I never really have sports on with dynamic off as I find it wallows about too much and I prefer the planted feel. I'll do some testing tomorrow if this weather holds out and see if I can feel a difference in steering. I'm not a big worrier on the exhaust as dont have fuse 17 (I think) in the box anway so its always wide open on the actuators until I get round to getting my Elite RR system. Steering would be my main focus I think. If I dont run sports mode and just have dynamic on the car holds much less revs and changes gear much sooner so I'd assume that sports adds its profile over the top of dynamic...

even with fuse 17 unplugged and the car stationary and in neutral and a blip of the throttle seems to sound more aggressive and rev faster... again I'll test more tomorrow for the differences...

 

Is it just me, or is this trick only necessary on 4.2L XKRs that do not have a dynamic mode button?

 

Pretty much yeah the 4.3's benefit but when in Dynamic fault mode the 5.0's fix the suspension to its firmest setting as pointed out by andrezbim in this thread. Dynamic mode is great when on the road and the conditions change but its not an instant effect and its constantly changing... when on the track I'd prefer a fixed firm suspension rate (rather than the variable suspension rate that dynamic creates). I triggered the fault mode by accident once from standing water and I really liked it. the reason were still discussing it is that were trying to find out if there is a way to achieve it without loosing the other benefits from dynamic mode and if they are still present if in sports mode...

 

Erm... the e-diff is on fuse 28 in the rear seat fuse compartment. F14 just handles the damping control module, the accelerometers & ride-hight sensors.

 

In spite of the different fuse and circuit, removing F14 causes on E-diff fault... I've tried this multiple times.