Hey everyone, I just purchased an 07 XK Coupe 52k miles that is salvage title. It has various little issues that I am working through currently but there is one problem that I haven't searched yet. I come from the XJ40 and X100 forums.

When turning my A/C on and turning the steering wheel the car makes noises! What do you guys think this can be? It only happens when the A/C is on. A/C functions perfectly, ice cold. and steering is nice and light. With the A/C off, steering will not make any noises.

That is the only "major" issue right now that is worrisome, everything else seems to be like an easy fix- thanks to the forums!

 

Congrats on your purchase....check:
Steering fluid level
Belt tension and condition and front engine fluid leaks that maybe getting on the belt(s)
pulley bearing wear and belt tracking for straightness

 

Thanks NightHawk! I keep buying Jaguars, I still need to put my Xj40 back together and hope it runs. I checked the Power Steering Reservoir it was full with an orange/brownish colored fluid. Looking under the car, I don't spot any leaks at all. I will try to check belt tension and the straightness of the belt tracking, Is the belt readily visible from the top of the bonnet? I didn't spot much visibility/room at first glance even looking under the car and pulling the undertrays everything was so crammed didn't see much.

 

Why was it salvage? Might that have something to do with any issues such as flood damage?

 

You can move the hood into service mode to get a better view of the belts.

Clean power steering fluid should be redish. If youre belts and pulleys are good you should consider a PS fluid flush.

 

Sir, Your very welcome, unfortunately I don't have all the answers but your "noises" are the same as any customers complaints.
be it a chevy or a lambo. The basics still apply. Don't know about the proper color of the fluid, and have little knowledge of the access to visual inspection,
with that said, I own a 2011 and it is very difficult to see anything in the engine bay without disassembly. Don't just look for spots in the driveway...sorry that was unfair..
A 2007 with 57K salvaged seems like a worth while challenge. I wish I had your sense of purpose. But be aware that you bought the risk with many unforeseen things to come. Best of luck (truly) and the forum will always be....some where to vent.

 

It was in a accident, here is a link to the damage https://autoauctions.io/app/17883920...10%40gmail.com
It now looks brand new! The body gaps and paint are very good.

This is the list of issues it has:

1. ABS/DSC fault, right front wheel speed sensor is the code that is showing - I tried cleaning the sensor but not luck, ordering a new wheel sensor hopefully that will fix it. Haven't seen any tutorials for the X150 XK though.
2. P0198 - Engine Oil Temperature Sensor high - I tried cleaning the sensor but the code is still showing, Ordering a new sensor.
3. RH side Bonnet doesn't latch 98% of the time, tried adjusting the latch but could not get it to latch like how the LH side does. The body and bonnet look straight, anyone have any ideas or advice on how to adjust the latching mechanism? I feel like the latch itself is the problem but I was able to get it to latch a couple times by closing really hard. Help! As this is very annoying to me!
4. LH Headlight is yellowing and bulb is out - Resurfaced it today and it looks brand new now, just need to spray it with clear coat and also I ordered some cheapo D1S bulbs to replace.
5. Bonnet struts failing - Replacements on order
6. Bonnet Open fault message, the switch on the LH side is working (tested by hand) but it looks like the way it connects to the latch is broken so it kind of flops in place might use some duck tape to hold it still. Any known DIY fixes for this?
7. Noise when I turn the steering wheel only when the A/C is on - will investigate this further once I fix the other "minor" issues.
8. No passenger air bag for sure, not sure if the driver side air bag was replaced? The passenger side air bag dash section isn't perfect but doesn't look to bad, I am actually surprised this car doesn't have the common leather lifting dash issue. Is replacing the airbags feasible? I found a good tutorial on dash removal on the forums.

Those are only issues that I have encountered so far, everything else seems to be in good working order. If someone can give me advice with issue 3 please! I was messing around with it for 2 hours now.

 

On #3 - measure and measure again. Compare left to right side, not that they didn't mess with the left side fender but unlikely. Rest the hood on top of the latches and measure height. Then on the Bonnet, the U shaped brackets should measure the same length. I think they are adjustable as there's a nut on one side. Confirm the latch itself is functioning correctly and at the same depth from the top of the body as the left side.
I would also use measurements on the left and compare to the right, including the hemlock (rivets) placements on the side panel (my focus here would be on alignment and clearance of the bonnet side to side). Even though the spec should be the same, and the quarter panel shouldn't be part of the equation, I'd be looking for a difference in what's underneath.

And here's a weird one ad less likely, make sure the wiper blades are correctly fitted. Incorrect fitting can damage the bonnet so make sure there's no contact there. That's all I've got - other than have a body shop give it a look-see.

 

have had the same latch problem, all i did was dial the nut 1.5 to 2 turns, close the hood the normal way, see if it stuck that time. repeat until it works. unless you've dialed it too far out already, which i doubt, you want to extend the length of the U-bracket so it can shove the locking mechanism far enough down to engage. try pushing a bit on the latch with a wooden dowel or a large punch to see how it works. over time/use it may work the nut back on the threads, stop engaging correctly, and you'll have to turn it some more. when i slam the hood shut i also reach over to the very middle and risk catching the point in my shoulder blade, just so both sides come down evenly. lean carefully into the glass!

 

Changed out the sensor today, part # LRA1600AA, doesn't fix the issue. I investigate further visually and wiring is broken.

 

Maybe your oil temperature is high? You never stated if the warning/code is dependent on engine temperature or it's a persistent state.
Have you tried a battery Hard Reset yet?

 

That's what I thought at first but from my research P0198 = "Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High" which translates to the temperature of the oil being low. I did try a battery Hard Reset but didn't bother testing the results/starting the car after, because I was able to see the wires cut that connect to the Oil Pressure Sensor and the Engine Oil Temperature Sensor.

I currently only have a cheapo OBDII reader, which brings me to another question when using the OBDII reader to clear the codes the engine surges to about 1,200 RPM and then goes back to normal at 7-800 RPM, is this normal behavior?

On a positive note I just finished resurfacing the LH side headlight and sprayed it with 2K SprayMax clear coat. It was my first time attempting this and I would say my results are about 90% of what a professional would probably do. It has some water spots under the clear.

XJ40 is currently taking up the whole garage

Headlights after sanding and spraying with 2k Clear coat.

The day that I picked up the XK

 

Replaced the the D1S bulb on the LH side, light is still out. do I have to replace the ballast?

 

You can try swapping the headlights and see if the problem follows the headlights or the car. Next would be harnesses, fuses, etc. could be wiring internally in the assembly as well.

EDIT: if it wasn’t clear, I meant moving the complete assemblies from one side to the other and plugging in the harness, obviously the housings won’t fit but the connectors should temporarily, other wise you may swap the ballasts

 

Does anyone know how I can figure out which wire goes where? It looks like the Engine Oil Sensor has a yellow wire and a black with green stripe wire. The Oil Pressure sensor has a black with green stripe wire. Where/how can I verify I am splicing the wires correctly. Yellow goes to yellow but how can I figure out which black/green goes to which black/green?


Wonder how this broke? How will I figure out which black/green wire goes where?

Engine Oil Temp Sensor is the one with the yellow wire. Oil pressure sensor is the one with a single black/green wire.

 

The Workshop and Electrical Manuals are in the Stickies at the top of this Forum. They should help you to figure it out.

 

One of the black/green tracers should have a wider tracer than the other wire. SHOULD.

 

is that ‘broke’ or cut.

 

When I found a mint low mileage dash for sale, I bought it. Then I pulled my existing and had to move the airbag to the new one. It's absolutely feasible. HOWEVER, I did this with the dash out of the car but you can pull the glovebox and should be able to take a look at access to the airbag fasteners. Good luck with the new car!

 

check the electrical guide. If they both go directly to ground then it doesn't matter. It one of them goes to ECM or something then you'll need to figure out which one is which for sure.