Anyone recommend these for their XKs? Any noticeable improvement over stock?!? Where is the cartridge for the air filter located anyway??? Can someone put a pic of with an arrow pointed to it?

Thanks!

Loth

PS- wont be bother with this until its fixed regarding my 2 most recent threads.

 

I put a K&N filter on a previous NA vehicle and the only difference I noticed was a sucking sound from the engine bay.

 

Here's another reason to remove the splash shields - the filter units are just in front of them:



Undo the two bolts, pull the case out, and the filter element is sitting inside it.

 

This is a "third rail" subject much like which oil, how often should I change it, and which radar detector is best questions.

K&N has always made exaggerated claims as do those who buy their products as to how much performance you WILL gain. It seems the vast majority of that gain is by virtue of the wallet lightening up thus reducing weight. On the Porsche forums many have found that the oil needed to spray on the filter may well cause failures in their MAF sensors. Most people found, like the poster above, that the only effect is a different sound.

In reality if you're going to improve the airflow by means of simply changing the filter it has to come at the cost of allowing more particles to pass through their filter, and I prefer not to have more contaminents enter my engine. OEM filters are cheap and easy to replace.

Good luck

 

Although I have not installed K&N in the jag and will most likely not for aa while I have had them in my previous cars. It was not for any power claim but only for longevity. My wife's volvo with 345K mile had the filter installed at 100K miles . My GMC truck has had one for 20K miles and my Ferrari has had one for 30K miles. The Lexus has only had on for 10K miles. I have had no issues with them whether it be a carb engine or a late model FI engine. They get re-oiled every 15K miles.

 

I've had them on all my cars. There is very little extra intake noise and maybe a gain of 1hp to be had. I do them for convenience in the sense that they need to be changed less often.

 

service per mileage should be about the same, purchase price is roughly 4x that for the K&N... at that difference it would take anywhere from 60-100K miles to make up the price

Tried them on my bikes but quickly got rid of them as like most I found zero performance difference, contrary to their claims, and I didn't like the idea of more contaminants passing through.

 

Ryan:

I bought the K&N Air Filters for my 2009 XKR Portfolio. They are sold in matched pairs for the Jaguar XKR. You need to make sure that you get the "matched pairs". They are sold as one unit in one order.

I did not buy them for any increase in potential HP or performance. I bought them for the quality of the brand.

You have to remove the wheel well inserts on the front side. Bset to remove the tire and wheel. Then you will be able to locate the filter case and they pull out. They are not accessable from under the hood/bonnet, at least NOT on my 2009. I am not sure about later years like 2012-2013. I am sure that member "Nagara" may have that information for you.

See the following link for your exact model and year.

http://www.knfilters.com/search/apps...KR&engine=5.0L

Hope this helps. I think many may not realize that you must get a matched pair otherwise you may end up getting another warning light on your dash. Right now that is the furtherest thing that you need or want.

 

Waste of money in IMO. Stock ones work just fine, no MAP errors... Air filters need to be changed so little, I don't see any advantage.

My Jag mechanic is a big proponent of staying with OEM on everything. He feels that it is one brand where after market seldom works as well in the end....

 

I fitted a oiled filter to my TT many years ago and made a point of checking the MAF signal over the following couple of months, it degraded by 10% during this time and had a coating of oil.


Now that is not direct evidence that a oiled filter will impact your MAF reading, but it was good enough for me, I ditched the filter and went back to paper and have stuck with them ever since.

 

Its understandable that you would want to give your baby the best that you can- and spending more than the maker did might give the impression that you are. However, you must give some benefit of doubt to brilliant British engineering, look no further than the fact that they have used 2 filters, and placed the intakes on the lowest possible point. That's twice the airflow AND twice the filtration, and rammed cold air. Do you know of a K&N product that does all 3. They dont have a clue.

 

The OEM engine air filter on my 1960 Corvette was foam bathed lightly in oil, similar to today's K&N filter. When I swapped out the original 283/230HP engine in 1965 for a 1965 327/365HP crate engine (WOOHOO!!!) the OEM filter was a paper element. Oiled foam is ancient technology. I learned my lesson after falling for K&N's marketing hype and buying 2 for my 1993 600SL. A waste of money IMHO. A high quality paper filter works better and costs less. If the K&N oiled foam method was better, manufacturers would have continued to use it after the '60s.

Just my

Stuart

 

The point has been made clearly, and it is a good point. If the K&N type of filter were superior in terms of filtration and air flow, Jaguar and other manufacturers would use it.
For those who are concerned about the cost of the efficient OEM filters, these CAN be cleaned periodically - it is simply amazing how much dirt can be tapped and shaken from the paper element. Doing so on a periodic basis extends the life of the paper filters significantly. How can you tell if the filter should be replaced? well, the colour of the paper element (which is a light amber colour) is a clue - it should not be dark; if it is, that is the result of micro-particles clogging the paper - time to replace. If the paper remains amber, it is working well: proof? use a vacuum cleaner nozzle (after cleaning the element) - the air should pass through the filter element quite forcefully. I just did this process yesterday on my X-Type Sportwagon - a fair amount of dirt came out with (hard) tapping but the element, after 13,000 kms of use was still evenly amber and clean, and the air flow was strong. Good for another couple of years....

 

K&N have a product based on obsolete technology that enjoys state-or-the-art marketing.

 

They took a page out the marketing book used by Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil.

 

I'm not sure I can agree with you here...

The only clear point I see is "Profits and marketing".
Why would a manufacturer provide you a product that would cost them significantly more over a cheap re-labeled $5 Taiwan filter with a 400% markup? The gains debate of K&N vs paper set aside, a K&N would cost them 5 time that of a paper element, and yet could only provide 25% - 50% markup at best. Even worse, a re-useable filter could hint that its service is something you or an indy shop can do with without returning to the dealership.

Parts and service has always been the bread and butter of any car manufacturer, not the car sale itself... In the end the object is to get you (almost to the point of demanding) to return to them for <insert car brand here> authorized parts, not because they feel it is the best out there, but to ensure company profits remain high via parts sale through out the life of the car.

My take anyhow...

 

I do not understand why a manufacturer would risk having a vehicle display DTCs due to oil fouling of the MAF given the strict emissions testing established in many jurisdictions. If having vehicle owners return to the agency for service is a motivation, this would surely be a good reason to install an air cleaner of such design.

 

K&N has challenged this myth for some time.....
K&N Response to Mass Air Flow Sensor Concerns
K&N Reveals Mass Air Flow Sensor Urban Myths

 

Ummm, no.

An OEM pays pennies for bulk purchased items like spark plugs, oil filters, etc etc.

The difference in cost at the OEM level between a regular paper filter and and an K&N type element is negligible. The total profit derived at the dealership would not change as they would sell fewer filters but would charge labour for cleaning and re-oiling.

Just for reference, the fancy-schmancy plugs we buy at retail for around $10-12 are sold to OEMs at $0.83 per unit, 2014 US dollars.

 

CleverName, that is very amazing that 107 sensors were tested and not one had oil fouling. I hope you have similar results with your vehicles, but I know I am not about to use a product based on oil-trapping technology on any of my vehicles, nor those of my customers and friends.