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The first time I ever let the vert sit out overnight, we had a rain deluge... almost 2.5" in about an hour.
Had some water seepage at the base of the roof, and it ended up shrinking the leather panel.
Would it be stupid to soak the panel and try to stretch the leather back out?
Last edited by GGG; Jul 4, 2022 at 03:23 AM.
Reason: Edit typo in thread title
The first thing to do is to liberally apply a GOOD non-silicone leather conditioner, and to do so liberally and repeatedly to soften the leather before any attempt is made to stretch it.
The first thing to do is to liberally apply a GOOD non-silicone leather conditioner, and to do so liberally and repeatedly to soften the leather before any attempt is made to stretch it.
With regard to conditioners, the main thing is to NOT use anything with silicone in it. There are many good conditioners: Lexol, AutoGlym Leather Balm, and Leatherique as well as many others. Those are just a few that I have used with success.
As a follow-up to the leather treatment issue, for years I have used Connolly Hide Food exclusively. I will clean the leather first using a good quality saddle soap and then work the Connolly in using my fingers. The difference is amazing. Use care around perforated surfaces unless you have the time to warm the area using a hair dryer on low and a clean terry cloth towel to remove the stuff from the tiny holes. Forty years ago I watched an elderly detailer at a Rolls Royce dealer working on an old classic Rolls front seats. I stood there quietly admiring his work when he looked up and said, "Watch how you have to do this." He would scoop out a good quantity of Connolys into his bare hands, wash them together coating his entire hands and thoroughly massage it into the seats until it almost disappeared. Then followed the removal/buffing process using a series of clean towels. When he had finished one seat he told me to feel the unfinished seat and then the one he had just done. The undone felt dry, brittle and rough to the touch. The finished felt supple, smooth and kinda like a freshly neatsfoot oiled baseball glove. Then he grinned and told me to feel his hands and it was like shaking hands with a baby! Sorry for the lengthy addition, but your conversation flushed up an old memory.
And of course, Connoly will work quite well softening the leather prior to any attempt at restretching.
Unfortunately modern leather is nothing like vintage classic car hides. For quite some time now automotive leathers are urethane coated for durability and visual consistency and as such actually require little care other than cleaning with mild cleansers.
Unfortunately modern leather is nothing like vintage classic car hides. For quite some time now automotive leathers are urethane coated for durability and visual consistency and as such actually require little care other than cleaning with mild cleansers.
jahummer is right. Since the 1980's, virtually all automotive leather (except a few boutique car brands) has been coated with water-based polyurethane. Even if leather seats are cleaned regularly, that coating is vulnerable to abrasion, particularly from denim and corduroy pants. That can result in cracks appearing the seat bolsters and bottoms.
For a detailed discussion of how to care for your Jaguar's interior, see this thread from 2019: How To Maintain Leather Seats
This is what came from the Jaguar factory, strapped to the left side of the trunk of my 2009 XKR Portfolio. It is a very thin liquid, with a viscosity like water.
My leather interior, including my dashboard, are still in excellent condition. What leather care product have I been using for years? Read that 2019 thread I linked above.
I have a lot of leather restoring and care experience… from antique cars to army boots to…
That job is beyond the simple “clean and restore” approach.
It will need to be heavily conditioned, stretched, while warmed… not hot! secured, dried, conditioned again, then polished.
take a look at product to get you started: Lexol Conditioner.
I don’t think you’ll need to use Melatonin leather stretch… I’d try with the conditioner first.
Then I use wood working clamps to hold in place once stretched.
Allow to dry, secure with leather glue. I got mine from a saddle shop. Clamp again until dry.
Then final conditioner coat.
Good luck.
Me, I'd probably get an upholsterer to cut off and add just the top flat part, have a seam where the corners are. If it's too obvious, do the other side to match. 99.9% of anyone would never notice.
LOL, You can never have too many clamps.
Some of my C’s, bar and hand screws go back 2 generations. And they wont fall apart like that “made in c…” crap.
Use Mom’s adage, ‘patience’. A successful restore gives me a sense of accomplishment.
Standing by to see the result…