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If you do nothing, the dashboard leather will slowly shrink over time and cause the glued edges to come undone. Since you already have the spray Lexol product, I would give it a try. Since it's a spray, it's probably a much thinner viscosity than their original product and won't just sit on top of the dashboard without being absorbed. Follow the directions on the label. Any thin-viscosity leather conditioner is better than no conditioner at all.
GhostRider9000,
I will repeat that I don't like the Lexol at all. And several months ago, when I went shopping for some conditioner, I used Armor All's Leather Restore Cream which I liked, but when I ran out and went to buy some more and the shop was out of it, I tried the Meguiars Leather Balm, and I've been hooked since.. It rubs on easily, doesn't leave streaking, has a great scent, and leaves the leather deep and rich colored without glossy shine. I like it.
Sigh....all the old untruths come out. Yes, modern automotive leathers are coated for durability but it is extremely important to keep the surface conditioned for softness and suppleness. Once the surface starts to crack it is too late to start using a conditioner. And contrary to common belief, even coated leathers do absorb non-silicone conditioners. Once you use any product with silicone (any Armor-all product, for example) you have effectively guaranteed that the surface is clogged and will not accept conditioning. The leather dash surface (and the seats, and the door panels) should be treated periodically often, where sun and heat are a factor. To neglect this is to invite shrinkage, cracking and a generally degraded appearance and feel.
Lexol is an excellent conditioner -which does indeed work well on modern Jaguar leathers - but there are also others that do not contain silicone and which are engineered for "micro-droplets" that can be absorbed. Properly treated, the leather interiors can remain as new for decades, not just years.
Sigh....all the old untruths come out. Yes, modern automotive leathers are coated for durability but it is extremely important to keep the surface conditioned for softness and suppleness. Once the surface starts to crack it is too late to start using a conditioner. And contrary to common belief, even coated leathers do absorb non-silicone conditioners. Once you use any product with silicone (any Armor-all product, for example) you have effectively guaranteed that the surface is clogged and will not accept conditioning. The leather dash surface (and the seats, and the door panels) should be treated periodically often, where sun and heat are a factor. To neglect this is to invite shrinkage, cracking and a generally degraded appearance and feel.
Lexol is an excellent conditioner -which does indeed work well on modern Jaguar leathers - but there are also others that do not contain silicone and which are engineered for "micro-droplets" that can be absorbed. Properly treated, the leather interiors can remain as new for decades, not just years.
Thick cream conditioners might make your leatherlook shiny and smell good, but they won't really condition the leather since they can't penetrate the PU coating as well as the thin viscosity conditioners.
This arguement is not valid since the leather is perforated though out the seating area and there is the stitching openings. All these are entry points on the hide that will allow Lexol to work its way into the intreated backside leather. Even my driverside seat bolster does not show the telltale side of entry and exit wear when treated with Lexol
Sigh....all the old untruths come out. Yes, modern automotive leathers are coated for durability but it is extremely important to keep the surface conditioned for softness and suppleness. Once the surface starts to crack it is too late to start using a conditioner. And contrary to common belief, even coated leathers do absorb non-silicone conditioners. Once you use any product with silicone (any Armor-all product, for example) you have effectively guaranteed that the surface is clogged and will not accept conditioning. The leather dash surface (and the seats, and the door panels) should be treated periodically often, where sun and heat are a factor. To neglect this is to invite shrinkage, cracking and a generally degraded appearance and feel.
Lexol is an excellent conditioner -which does indeed work well on modern Jaguar leathers - but there are also others that do not contain silicone and which are engineered for "micro-droplets" that can be absorbed. Properly treated, the leather interiors can remain as new for decades, not just years.
Do you have any data that backs up any of these statements? I've read them for years. I've never seen a shred of evidence that supports this. I've never seen a shred of evidence that supports the counter arguments either. Without documentation from auto makers, both perspectives are speculation.
Do you have any data that backs up any of these statements? I've read them for years. I've never seen a shred of evidence that supports this. I've never seen a shred of evidence that supports the counter arguments either. Without documentation from auto makers, both perspectives are speculation.
Sean,
I am not sure where in your Owners Manual, but in my 2010 Manual, Page 172-173 covers Leather Care pretty well. They tout using the "Jaguar Leather Cleaner" several times a year.
Now if we can just find out the ingredients we will have more answers, but according to what was said after Stuart posted it, seems to be a more modern product vs the older oil type products. I may have to go buy one to compare it to the Griots stuff I recently picked up.
Unfortunately, the link to the Australian article in my Post #5, above, no longer exists. That was an excellent explanation of the evolution of automotive leather.
Below is a link to a lengthy article that, although it is an advertisement for their detailing products, includes a thorough explanation of the various types of automotive leather and their recommended care. Here's an excerpt:
"I will forewarn you, the topic of leather care is very confusing and, as such, is one of the most hotly contested areas of automotive detailing – just go to any detailing forum and do a search on ‘leather’, then sit back and get confused."
This arguement is not valid since the leather is perforated though out the seating area and there is the stitching openings. All these are entry points on the hide that will allow Lexol to work its way into the intreated backside leather. Even my driverside seat bolster does not show the telltale side of entry and exit wear when treated with Lexol
In addition, LEXOL is NOT a thick cream- it is quite thin, in fact and is formulated as "micro-droplets", easily absorbed.
Unfortunately, the link to the Australian article in my Post #5, above, no longer exists. That was an excellent explanation of the evolution of automotive leather.
Hi Stuart,
Yes that was the best explanation I have seen, and completely changed my path, a definite eye-opener, thanks for that.
But, it is still there, just moved to a different link.
It is HIGHLY recommended to at least read it and keep an open mind. Oh, forget buying their stuff unless you are "local", but there are similar products that are more easily available here in the US.
Do you have any data that backs up any of these statements? I've read them for years. I've never seen a shred of evidence that supports this. I've never seen a shred of evidence that supports the counter arguments either. Without documentation from auto makers, both perspectives are speculation.
Documentation? Auto makers, including Jaguar, prefer to let the client think that leather mainentance is just a matter of an occasional wipe with a damp cloth. That will work for the first 5 years or so.
Data? I have better than that: I have had over 20 years experience restoring and maintaining more than 25 Jaguars (I think the count is 32), using everything from Hide Food (next to useless) to Leatherique (excellent on the leathers of the 70's and 80's) to Autoglym Leather Balm (excellent on all) to Lexol (also excellent on all) as well as a variety of the formulations (mostly containing silicones), to the products of the car wax companies (Meguiars, Eagle1, etc...) and also formulations made for "professional" shops.The interior restorations involved repair, preparatory conditioning and recolouring of the leather as well as the regular maintenance conditioning. I have nearly full bottles of "conditioners" that are NOT absorbed, that give an artificially shiny surface because of the waxes and silicones they contain...but I go through a significant quantity of Lexol- because it has none of the negatives mentioned, and I use and have used the Lexol as my go-to conditioner for the leather on my 1966 Mk 2, many 80's era Series III XJ cars, other Jags incluidng an XJ40, X300, X350, my 2007 XK,, three different X-Types, and my F-Type. Therefore I can say with certainty that the Lexol is absorbed by the leather and that it softens dried leather and maintains an as-new finish to modern leather used in Jaguars. I also like the AutoGlym Leather Balm very much but it is somewhat thicker than the Lexol and not quite as easily absorbed - but still excellent.
And yes, the conflicting material regarding leather maintenance is very confusing! But experience tells the tale, doesn't it?
If coated leather had the ability to absorb any oil, you would not believe what a mess it would make.
Because our body oozes copious amounts of oil. The armrests where there is no underwear to catch the oil, suffers the most.
I have had 2 cars with uncoated leather- a Maserati and a Rover Sterling.
These pics are of a Ford Truck with king ranch seats. Note the the darkest areas represent contact with bare skin secretions. You can almost tell what kind of clothes the driver wore.
If coated leather had the ability to absorb any oil, you would not believe what a mess it would make.
Because our body oozes copious amounts of oil. The armrests where there is no underwear to catch the oil, suffers the most.
I have had 2 cars with uncoated leather- a Maserati and a Rover Sterling.
These pics are of a Ford Truck with king ranch seats. Note the the darkest areas represent contact with bare skin secretions. You can almost tell what kind of clothes the driver wore.
IIRC King Ranch leather is the example most used when talking about Not being P coated like other leathers, they are considered a semi-aniline. They have a thin water repellent coating, but that's about it. That is why it looks closest to saddle leather, what Ranchers prefer. Care is similar.
And yes, the conflicting material regarding leather maintenance is very confusing!
Only because the public would rather listen to marketeers.
You seem to be a true aficionado.
Dont use Lexol mate! its garbage from the folks who make Energizer Batteries- no joke.
Use these guys as a Jaguar lover. They are the last remaining source of any information on Connolly and truly understand our leathers and needs.
Moreover the products they supply for new leather is made for them by the very folks who made the coating on your leather and have the only proper leather research facility in existence- as shocking as that might be. Leathercare Renovations
I am not sure where in your Owners Manual, but in my 2010 Manual, Page 172-173 covers Leather Care pretty well. They tout using the "Jaguar Leather Cleaner" several times a year.
Now if we can just find out the ingredients we will have more answers, but according to what was said after Stuart posted it, seems to be a more modern product vs the older oil type products. I may have to go buy one to compare it to the Griots stuff I recently picked up.
Cheers,
Dave
Hi Dave. Yes, the manual indicates using the cleaner nourishes and moisturizes, its not calling itself a conditioner. For that we're relegated to the aftermarket and there are as many snake oil salesman in that business as there are in the car wax business. My car is 11 years old and the leather is just fine. I can't speak for the previous owner of my car, but I wipe it down with leather cleaner in the spring and again in the fall. Once per year I use Lexol conditioner. It works for me. Car's interior looks new twice per year:-) I'm sure many other product work fine too. Claims about products effects on leather are almost silly to me. The link you sent says it all.
For others, from the manual:
Leather
Leather is easy to maintain, however, dust and substances can penetrate the pores and crease the leather, causing surface wear and brittleness.
To prevent ingrained dirt and staining, inspect the seat upholstery regularly and clean every one to two months as follows:
Wipe off fine dust from the seat surfaces using a clean, damp, non-coloured cloth. Change frequently to a clean area of cloth to avoid abrasive action on the leather surface. Avoid over-wetting.
If this is not sufficient, use a cloth which has been dampened with warm soapy water and then wrung out. Use only mild non-caustic soap.
Use Jaguar Leather Cleaner for heavily soiled areas. Dry off and rub with a clean soft cloth, changing surfaces regularly.
When staining (e.g. from clothing) or spillage occurs, clean the affected area immediately as described above.
Use Jaguar Leather Cleaner several times a year to maintain its appearance and suppleness. The cleaner will nourish and moisturise and help to improve the surface protective film against dust and substances.
Do not use solvents. Do not use detergents, furniture polish or household cleaners. While these products may initially give impressive results, their use will lead to rapid deterioration of the leather and will invalidate the warranty. Jaguar recommend a basic set of products that have been specially selected for the type of leather in your vehicle.
Dark clothing may stain leather seats just like other upholstery products.
Sharp objects such as belts, zip fasteners, rivets, etc. can leave permanent scratches and scratch marks on the leather surface.
Hi Dave. Yes, the manual indicates using the cleaner nourishes and moisturizes, its not calling itself a conditioner. For that we're relegated to the aftermarket and there are as many snake oil salesman in that business as there are in the car wax business. My car is 11 years old and the leather is just fine. I can't speak for the previous owner of my car, but I wipe it down with leather cleaner in the spring and again in the fall. Once per year I use Lexol conditioner. It works for me. Car's interior looks new twice per year:-) I'm sure many other product work fine too. Claims about products effects on leather are almost silly to me. The link you sent says it all.
Use Jaguar Leather Cleaner several times a year to maintain its appearance and suppleness. The cleaner will nourish and moisturise and help to improve the surface protective film against dust and substances.
Hi Sean,
Thanks for that, and I agree with your wise words above.. but at least Jag mentioned the part in bold above, I guess that's their way of covering Leather Conditioning. More than I have seen in other brand's manuals. It seems their Leather Cleaner is more of a Cleaner/Conditioner.
I too have used Lexol for decades before switching to Leatherique products and now I am searching for a new "standard". No diss on Lexol, I have no issue with it either way, just had better results in restoring Leather in some of the older 928s I restored with Leatherique and started using it all the time since then. I do get a lot of that stuff in the Blog Stuart posted which is causing me to keep an open mind on some of the newer technology out there. But, yeah it is like wading thru all the snakes in that scene in Raiders of the Lost Ark to find the right treasure.
Note I kept out of the debate.
If one is actually looking for something....
Here is the most important evidence- look at any XK 4 years old and up, you will find deterioration of the leather! but where? is the clue.
On the bolsters, but not just any bolster, on the entry to the driver side.
What that shows us is that the only degradation we need to be concerned about is abrasion.
Do you have any data that backs up any of these statements? I've read them for years. I've never seen a shred of evidence that supports this. I've never seen a shred of evidence that supports the counter arguments either. Without documentation from auto makers, both perspectives are speculation.
I can appreciate your concerns though the "proof" has to be what it does for your car interior. Many many years usage of the Lexol products on over 50 cars is the best testimonial I can offer about how it works. I'm sure there are other great products as discussed in earlier posts. I just don't see a need to look further.
.... Here is the most important evidence- look at any XK 4 years old and up, you will find deterioration of the leather! but where? is the clue.
On the bolsters, but not just any bolster, on the entry to the driver side.
What that shows us is that the only degradation we need to be concerned about is abrasion. ...
See my Post #12 in this 2016 thread for details of how I used Dynamix Ivory color leather dye to refinish my chafed driver's side bolster to look like new. Easy DIY fix.
Um, so yeah, back to my question about using Lexol on the dashboard, too. I guess I have read it's fine. I'll report back in 10 years to let you know how it worked out for me. I appreciate all opinions. Just can't keep buying the next best thing all the time and leaving full bottles around the house. I probably wouldn't have bought Lexol without reading a lot about it first. It's just been a while.
Sov211/Gregory, experience does matter most to me.
07-22-2018, 09:26 AM
I guess I have read it's fine. I'll report back in 10 years to let you know how it worked out for me. 
I appreciate all opinions. Just can't keep buying the next best thing all the time and leaving full bottles around the house. I probably wouldn't have bought Lexol without reading a lot about it first. It's just been a while.