My '11 XKR Convertible bit the dust. It appears to be another case of mysterious oil starvation, and the best guess is a spun con-rod bearing (it sounds very, very bad when started, and there are metal shavings in the oil filter).

With that in mind, I'm trying to decide if I want to rebuild, or just sell it as is. I've gotten one local quote ($18k and likely to climb up as the rebuild goes on) , but would like to get more from reliable engine rebuilders. Does anyone have any recommendations? I'm in SoCal, but depending on the price of the rebuild, I may be up for shipping the car out of state.

Please forward recommendations - either here on in PM.

Thanks,

\ Henrik

 

Used motors for $10k on eBay, check for Range Rover ones too.

F-Type, XFR, XKR, XJ Supersport, Range Rover Sport, Range Rover Vogue, can all be used with swapping over ancilliaries.

 

I'd go with the used engine like Cambo suggests.

 

+1

As someone with a record as a serial destroyer of Jaguar engines in my youth, a used one is the cost effective option. Parts alone on a full rebuild soon becomes frightening and usually rises from initial estimates as there's no point in compromising in anything "borderline".

Graham

 

Just need to clarify my previous statement.

If you take a Range Rover donor you will need to swap the sump, oil pickup, starter, lots of bolt-on stuff.

If you take a donor engine from a car with Bosch engine management to fit in a Denso car, you will need to swap over the VVT units, timing chains, fuel rails, some sensors, they are not the same between Denso and Bosch.

But it's easy enough to do while you have an engine on a stand.

Denso cars are all XKR, XF until 2012, XJ until 2012, Range Rover Sport L320 till 2013, Range Rover Vogue L322 to 2012.

 

Man, some scarry **** but it sounds like a no brainer to me....donor over rebuild would be my vote. Make sure there is solid back ground info on the donor's history though as well as ensuring the competence of the shop doing the work. There was a thread a while back discussing a situation much like yours so it might be worth doing some reading here on the pitfalls.

 

Ditto. Also note that while you have it out, drill and tap the oil pan for a friggin real dipstick.

 

Haven't heard about this problem ( I think...). What is the cause of this?

 

Yep interesting. Was this car tracked or just a street driver.

 

I've been on the forum since March of last year and know of at least three oil starved 5.0's that lunched the bottom end. Most were F types if memory serves. Only warning was rods knocking.

I still can't believe Jaguar didn't program the ECU to look at oil level and time since last startup so it calculates the acceptable level correctly. Really poor design.

 

Meaning this is a startup issue after sitting long periods where all of the oil has drained into the sump?

Just looking on how to avoid this (if we can).

 

Since I was a kid, I've always started a car and let it idle until the 'choke' was off, then I'd drive away. Nowadays it's Open Loop to Closed Loop stuff, but I still wait until the idle dies down before driving. I also don't Romp On It until the coolant is at temperature.

 

 

No, the 5.0 uses the wonky electronic dipstick. How often does the average driver check their oil, especially when the dipstick is missing? Does the display pop up saying low oil warning ever?

 

Hmm, hopefully the OP will chime back in and mention the cause.

 

gr8dane,
When I bought my 2010 XKR about 5 years ago, when the previous owner brought the car to my mechanic, within 30 seconds, my mechanic said the car needed a new engine. (Oil starvation as in no oil in the car). The p.o. had an aftermarket insurance policy that paid my mechanic to source and install a new engine. We found one with about 5000 miles on it for about $6000.00 if I remember correctly. My mechanic has just finished a rebuild of my 175000 mile 4.0L X100 XKR, and by the way we still have my 5.0L engine on a stand at his shop incase we ever need parts. I have another mechanic who has just finished restoring my 1972 De Tomaso Pantera that included a new engine, and I'm sure he's capable of doing it as well. He works on a lot of exotics like Ferraris, Audi R-8s, Nissan GTRs etc. They are both in the San Fernando Valley part of Los Angeles. If you're interested in contact information, p.m. me and I'll get in touch.
Thanks,
Ted

 

I think it's strange so many engines break because of oil starvation!? Do 5.0 use 2-3 liters of oil between oil changes because less then that I find it hard to believe that it is the reason why they break? There must come on an low oil warning light, every car has a warning light for it?

 

Peter don't get caught in the trap that there are MANY engines with oil starvation. Other then 2 or maybe 3 listed here there is insufficient data to support this as a major problem. Also the cause has not been established in this incident as to whether it's cause was buy not maintaining correct oil level or by improper oil or by a failure in the lubrication system. It would be good to hear if anyone with this issue found the reason.

 

One issue facing anyone with a failed 5.0 litre engine is the lack of internal parts available from JLR such as connecting rods and bearing shells. There are several threads on this forum of engines being successfully 'rebuilt' following an overheating situation because there was no damage to the lower end assemblies.

Best choice is sourcing a used engine.

 

Jagtoes and peterv8,
In my case, when the engine was checked there was simply virtually no oil in it (before I bought it), LACK OF MAINTENANCE! by the previous owner I would suspect. However, I drove the car prior to it coming to my mechanic, and there were no warning lights on the dash, so you can't rely on them as accurate predictors of what's actually going on. I check my oil every few days as well as coolant level before I start the car in the morning just so that I want be caught "flat footed" in the future and have no one to blame but myself.