So I just noticed my buddy's XKR doesn't have the little mud flaps on it. I have actually never seen an XKR without the mud flaps. I thought they all came with them - both cars are 11's.

Do you guys all have the flaps too? Anyone consider removing or do you think it looks better with?

 

From what I can tell, it's included if the car came with 20" wheels. It's not included if the car came with 19" wheels.

 

Do any of the 2010 or later XK's have mud flaps on the front wheel wells? I have a lot of road rash along the side of mine that I am repairing but would like to limit future damage by looking at flaps for the front.

 

Yes, I have the flaps...2009 XKR convertible Portfolio Edition...20" wheels...plan to keep them on as is from the factory.

 

I bought them for my '07 (19" wheels) for about $25 each but haven't put them on yet due to a slight misalignment of panels on the passenger side. Wasn't noticeable till the moldings made the gap obvious...grrrr. Also requires drilling and riveting to install.
I plan on playing with the new 3M Paint Defender just aft of the front wheel wells to help avoid chipping... Just haven't done so yet.

 

Picture of road rash on my sold 2011 XKR 175 with only 4,000 miles. It looked like someone sand blasted the side of my car. You can see the pepper sprayed look 12" up down the side, especially noticeable behind the front vent. It also felt very rough. What a shame. My new XKR has been clear covered 18" on sides wheel to wheel to avoid the same problem. Has anyone installed custom fitted mud flaps? I would install them in a heart beat!!!

 

Do you have some pictures of the mud flaps you were going to install? I'd like to get a set of the best fitting ones available that will look like part of a body kit. With the current XKR body style being out for a while one would think an after market mod would be available.

 

You have front mud flaps on from factory???????????????

 

I 'll get some for you, but I'm talking about the factory rear "lips" that come with the car when fitted with 20" tires.
I also had the rocker panels covered in clear-bra after similar rock damage, but noticed chipping just aft of the wheel wells that I hope the spray protectant will help minimize.

V

 

The "mudflaps" were not related to wheel size - they were a factory option with any wheel size.

 

Here, and you can see the panel gap I need to fix.. (Probably loosen the bumper and push it more to the drivers side, grrr)

Vince

 

Those are the standard back mud flaps on the XKR. I looked at my car last night thinking of doing a similar install on the front. The protection is only required from about 12" down where all the damage occurs. If installed from about 12" down they will fit better, look better and offer the best protection with the widest end (cut end) at the bottom. The cut end could be rounded off around the end to look better and would be on the very bottom out of sight.

The front fenders have a very narrow return unlike the back quarter panels. Will the clips hold the pieces securely in place on the front fenders? I never noticed any screws holding them on to the back quarter panels on my 2013. They seem to be held in place with clips.

I want to avoid road rash damage as evident on my last 2011 XKR 175 with only 4,000 miles. Picture below. I have the mouldings on my new 2013 XKR and sold 2011 XKR 175 rear quarter panels. It's the front that mostly needs the protection.

The moulding are very pliable and should fit on without any need to adjust your rear bumper.

 

DGL - thanks for the photos. This is exactly the problem I have on my 2010 XKR. I am talking to a paint shop now about repairing it and covering it with clear bra. We've also decided to order a pair of the rear mud flaps and adapt them onto the front wheel wells as you described.

Please let me know if you beat me to it with any tips. Thanks again.

 

Hey UsmaXKR2010- I'm not sure if the mouldings are symmetrical or not. If they are symmetrical maybe only 1 moulding will do both front fenders if you cut the one in half. We need the most protection at the botton going up maybe 10 inches. I think the tapered moulding will look factory if installed in this fashion and will match in with the rear. I'd like for them to extend out a little more at the bottom but the inch of protection gained with the mouldings and a clear paint protection cover 12" up from wheel to wheel should help a lot.

I had my new XKR sides covered with clear paint protection about 14" up from the bottom--should help a lot.

Let us know how things go. I think I'll go to the dealer soon and order a set or 1. The return lip on the front fenders is very narrow compared to the rear. I'm a little concerned if the clips will suffice in securing the mouldings to the fenders.

 

I only have the small mud, dirt, sand guard that is factory installed on the car. The guards protrude only about 1" or less on the back wheel wells only. The front has no flaps or guards of any kind.

The rear flaps are hardly visiable from the rear flare out of the body panel.

I can't really envision having any other type of mud, dirt, sand guard other than what Jaguar offfers.

I do like the idea of the clear coat on the sides like you have mentioned in your post on your car.

 

I found only one image of a Jaguar 2012 XJ with front and rear mud, dirt, sand flaps.

I am not sure how these would look on an XK or XKR.

What do you think?

 

Not a fan of the look. I'll accept a few dings to have my car look the way Ian designed it.

Watched a Maserati owner look at my parked car today. Probably my imagination but I do believe I saw an envy twinkle in his eye...

Best regards,

 

Does anyone have the factory part number for the front/rear splashguards? The part number is usually embossed on the reverse side. Thanks.

 

He was probably kissing his money good-by. The XK is sweeter looking, more reliable, more powerful and has lower maintenance cost.

I looked at an MC before my current ride. My decision was easy.

 

The part numbers for the factory mudflaps (really just narrow guard strips) are C2P5094 and 5095 (right and left). Approximate cost: $35 each.