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Sean, thank you 🙏 as you're always very helpful along with Richard as well. After the flush I'm just going with this 2 liters concentrate after mixing with Distilled I will have 4 liters. Which will be plenty.. for future top offs.. I can always order on Amazon as Advsnce Closed in my area and was going to O'Riley's but now ive decided to just stick to one source.
This is for your vehicle. Yes a 50/50 mix with distilled water is perfect (You're in Wisconsin IIRC). Don't think twice about it. You're good to go with this choice.
This is for your vehicle. Yes a 50/50 mix with distilled water is perfect (You're in Wisconsin IIRC). Don't think twice about it. You're good to go with this choice.
The spec in the 4.2 and 5.0 service manuals is Wss-m97b44-d, which was a Ford spec at the time. If anyone has an update from Jag with a newer spec, please advise.
Below are some examples that say they meet this spec, from a Google search of the above number. If you want to use another, check the label, and if no spec there check the online manufacturers spec sheet. Color is sometimes a guide, but is not to be trusted in a coolant you haven't confirmed as the above spec in documentation. Also, the Ford spec is independent of "American" or "Euro" designations. Motorcraft is hard to find, Peak is getting iffy, but Zerex is pretty much available.
I won't use "universal", but that's my choice. I've used Peak as noted below, and am going to Zerex next time I change.
One more point: The old manufacturer spec numbers are being supplanted by ASTM and SAE ones. The image of the Zerex bottle cross references the Ford/Jag spec to the ASTM and SAE ones. I think (?) that means the Ford spec cross references to the ASTM D3306. FYI.
Last edited by panthera999; Feb 28, 2025 at 08:41 AM.
I don't use either OAT nor HOAT. It's easier that way.
I just watched the Project Farm test of Evans vs Conventional antifreeze. I didn't expect the waterless to have the worst heat exchange performance and worst friction performance. Its boiling and freezing points are in a different league which I would have expected, although neither of those is particularly important for automobiles operating in normal climatic conditions.
For my wallets sake, I think I'll stick with the OAT.
I just watched the Project Farm test of Evans vs Conventional antifreeze. I didn't expect the waterless to have the worst heat exchange performance and worst friction performance. Its boiling and freezing points are in a different league which I would have expected, although neither of those is particularly important for automobiles operating in normal climatic conditions.
For my wallets sake, I think I'll stick with the OAT.
Richard
I did it specifically for the near-zero operating pressure. I will never blow a hose or plastic fitting in a hundred years. My normal temps went up about 4-5°f. Negligible for the peace of mind I get.
I did it specifically for the near-zero operating pressure. I will never blow a hose or plastic fitting in a hundred years. My normal temps went up about 4-5°f. Negligible for the peace of mind I get.
The amount of times I've replaced hoses, radiators, expansion tanks, etc as well as pressure issues, I've been tempted to do this with the Disco 4, but.... Evan's does nothing for plastic/rubber/gasket wear due to heat & age so really circuit parts will still fail and overheating's still a risk...
The amount of times I've replaced hoses, radiators, expansion tanks, etc as well as pressure issues, I've been tempted to do this with the Disco 4, but.... Evan's does nothing for plastic/rubber/gasket wear due to heat & age so really circuit parts will still fail and overheating's still a risk...
No, it's really not. Plastic/rubber/gaskets can wear down to a frail coating of dust and since No Pressure, they will still hold fine.
