The factory recommends changing the oil after 1 year or 10,000 and12,000 miles depending how hard you drive your car. I think that is a load of crap too. ............ I never had a car that I didnt change the first oil at 2000 miles.

Leaving the oil in for 12,ooo miles only allows for metallic particles from the manufacturer casting and forgings to float around in the engine...... My bf's cousin builds race engines, from bareblocks to blown engines. These are engines with aluminum blocks.

He and no one else I know reocomends leaving oil in that long. If you dont believe that it should be changed at 2000, try doing the following........ On the first oil change get an auto paint strainer from any automotive finishing hous and run the first oil change thru that strainer.

I included a pic of the strainer. the strainers are thro aways and u can get a pack of them for 10 dollars. The size I use is a C6 176. These are availabile in both the U.S. and the UK, Switz and Japan. I drain every oil change thru one of these, looking for particles, at 2000 miles.

I can see a metallic glimmer but I never have found large flakes or pieces.... If you dont cahnge your own oil you can ask whoever does to run the oil thru the strainer when he pulls the plug. If they wont do it then go somewhere else.

I sent a pic of my mileage and I am changing my oil now at 1850........... peace of mind from a Polish hooligan. .......... If anyone has a 5.0l s/c engine they want to sell I am more than happy to buy it. But no thrown rods through the block.

I want to build a 900 bhp engine and put it in my xkr after my 2013 warranty is up. Thanks

 

On my '12 XJL you get an oil change every 15,000 miles under the warranty. I went in after 3,000 and had to pay for it myself at a $275 dollar clip because of " a special tool or whatever to do it. I did it just for the the reason you cited.

 

Correction! '11 XJL

 

It is a buch of BS on the special oil change tool. Matco Tools sells the Jaguar/land Rover oil filter removal tool which is nothing special. There is also a wrench type filter remover for about $39.00.

This is just another ploy from the Jaguar dealers to rip people off due to the so-called exclusitivity of Jaguar brand.

Buy one of these and keep it in your garage or Jaguar tool box.

JAGUAR/LAND ROVER OIL FILTER WRENCH JA19015 | Matco Tools

Weź porady od SoCalBabe i rozważyć zmianę samodzielnie. Zawsze dobrze jest, aby zrozumieć, jak to wszystko działa na własnym Jaguar samochodu. Jest to łatwe zadanie. Oszczędź sobie jakieś duże pieniądze.

And yes, I am Polish also.

 

I'll have to assess and get the oil tested when I get a car. Based on the results I'll see what my next step is. I have evolved from my youth when I did an oil change every 3000 miles. I now do all of my vehicles at 5000 whether it is dino or syn oil. When I bought my last Lexus I had the free 1st service done at 3000 miles and have changed it every 5000 miles. With 25,000 miles on the car now the oil is clean and has checked out OK from the analysis. It's a wait and see for me.

 

Yeah, it might not be necessary to do a change after the running-in period - but it doesn't cost much to change the oil & filter, and you might just save a whole lot of trouble further down the line. Even if you don't have the time, skills or facilities and have to pay someone to do it, why not spend the bucks to protect an investment that is several orders of magnitude greater?

 

I'm no expert on this but have been doing some long term testing. I have a 1984 Mustang with 33,000 miles or so that is now driving about 400 miles a year and have not changed the oil for 7 or 8 years and all seams well. I also have a 2000 Lincoln LS with 188000 that I change about every 4000 or so with normal oil with no oil consumption or leaks and it just keeps on going. Sort of wish it would die but no luck so far...

 

And you dont have any concerns about moisture in the engine from leaving the oil in so long??

 

Water only accumulates if the car is driven for short trips without fully warming up the engine to temp. This is why owners are discouraged from running engines during storage 'just for fun'.

The main enemy over time is the accumulation of acids which, in theory, could damage some surfaces. Never actually seen it happen in over 40 years of playing with these things.

There's also little/no evidence to suggest that changing the oil any sooner than the OEM's recommendations has any benefit. Do it only if it helps you sleep better. The cars couldn't care less.

 

Each to their own on this and a few other subjects as stated many times here.....

Personally I think its overkill, but cheap maintenance I suppose.

My Audi A6 from new was initially on Longlife servicing, oil changes at around 18,000 miles as I was doing mostly motorway miles every day.

Once I got to around 60k miles my habits changed and became mostly stop / start and around town miles, so I changed to fixed servcing every year or around 10k miles and have done so for the last 4 or 5 years.

I'm now at around 112k miles and she runs like a champ with no issues

 

Does Jaguar use fully Synthetic when changing oil? (Castrol 5W/20)

 

Depends on whether the car requires synthetic or not. Most don't. The owner's manual will specify.

 

When is the last time you heard about motor oil turning to sludge? Motor oils today and their addatives are far superior than decades ago. Actually more harm and wear is caused when starting after long lay ups. Jaguar is the only car I know which recommends a particular brand of oil and that be Castrol oil, I myself use Mobil1 but the filter is just as important.

Changing oil at 2K miles is a waste, you worried about particles floating around then change your filter top off the oil and carry on. What's important is the breakdown of the additives and if your really concern then send a sample from the next oil change and send it to Blackrock Labs for analysis.

Lets face it car motors do not work very hard and with improved oil and motor assemble/tolorances most modern oil can last 10K miles easy. I would put fresh oil in if I was laying the car up for months.

 

I agree and Audi/VW also state a recommended oil that meets their 501 , etc specification for their 2.0L turbo. It must be because this engine likes to burn it. Seems to be a typical problem. The mfg. that meets this need is Castrol Syntech. That was a 5W-40 weight. Anyway as I mentioned I change oil every 5000 miles or once a year whichever comes 1st. I think unless I see different I will do the same with the Jag.

 

Porsche also recommends just Mobil 1. Lets face it, especially in the US THERE IS NO HARD DRIVING. Majority of your miles are driven at a very low crusing speed and almost consistent low RPM. German cars have higher oil change intervals in Germany as they do here in the US. I believe this still has to do with the 3,000 Jiffy lube crappola and they feel that a higher oil change intervall would be bad to market here.
In Germany small 4 banger engines go red line to red line all day. Every GTI is driven at max RPM for hours on the German Autobahn with constant shifting up and down, hard breaking and then coming to a stop in a traffic jam, cooking the oil, only to floor it and go red line to redline through the gears to drag limited top speed aftewr traffic clears. They do this for 100s K miles with just the regular oil change intervals (some of them at every 30,000km). I have gone through several 4 bangers in Germany from VW and Audi, all driven hard and never had any issue.
Here you cruise at 75MPH and some 2,000RPM, there is NO wear on these engines whatsoever. The once a weekend track day or spirited drive is putting nothing on these engines. Who here drives regularly more than 30K a year with their Jag?
Porsche stipulates an annual oil change independent of mileage driven which I can agree with if the car is not driven much and the oil just sits in the bottom of the pan. I had a magnetic oil plug in my P cars and you can see oil change after oil change that there was almost nothing in there. Those are much smaller engines which are driven much closer to the redline because of very little torque and not much happening below 4,500rpm.

If it gives you a sense of security an oil change is cheap enough but there is nothing to support a claim that mordern oils and more importantly modern machining would required anything less than 10K miles oil change.
Back when tooling and manufacturing was not on a CNC level the initial oil change was needed because simply there was more machining debris, shavings, dust left in the engines after assembly and the initial oil change would allow you to flush these out.

 

Funny my kid is on her 2nd Audi A4 and I just can't imagine the oil consumption (1st was 1800 miles/qt and 2nd is 2600 miles/qt) for one in Germany . Audi says 1200 miles a quart is acceptable and most A4's run about 3000 miles a quart. Recommended oil change is 10,000 miles. I have this running argument on the Audi form about how poorly the Audi 2.0T motor design is . Sorry for off topic , I'll move on now.

 

Sure, there will always be issues with smaller engines running at high revs/high temps and burning oil. You should check your oil level regularly on those engines and fill up what is needed.
You go on a road trip with Porsche owners and every single one will have a quart of oil on them. Topping off oil has nothing to do with the frequency of changing oil. What you have listed above I find excessive personally. Manufacturers say that that is an acceptable level in regards to not causing damage to the engine. I rarely added oil to any of my engines but I have done it especially on the Porsches.
I owned a 2.0T A5 here and sold it at about 60,000 miles and never had to add a drop of oil. I also owned VW Beetle turbo S and a Jetta TDI both sold at about 90,000 miles, I never had to add oil to any off them. These were however my commuter cars and are driven every day for about 100 miles.

the Audi A5 quattro with 2.0T averaged 32MPG over its lifetime which I find very acceptable for a heavy, all wheel drive car and shows how smooth that engine ran. Half of my commute in that car was stop and go traffic in DC with the engine idling for at least 20-30 minutes stopped at red lights.

 

My feelings exactly! I love my cars, but with full synthetics and the modern engines there is absolutely no reason to change oil at these low intervals unless it makes you feel better. I'm the guy who back in the early 80s had to drive 50 miles to find Mobil 1 and buy it by the case because I got tired of changing conventional oil at the 3000 mile mark and felt I could easily go 5000 with Mobil 1. It was about the only synthetic at that time. Now I'm really comfortable with the Mfg. recommendations, and I haven't heard about any engine problems because of these extended intervals. I will say that I don't do really short trips or let the engine warm-up in the drive way for an extended period. I also don't "get on it" until it is up to normal operating temperature (hard to tell with no temp gauge).The car is also garaged.

 

I changed mine at 3k for the first time as new engines will always vacate some metal from the machining, break in period. Yes the filter catches it but I don't want a filter full of microscopic shards of metal. Although tolerances and assembly processes have gotten much better over the last 20 years, you still have a hundreds of metal pieces rubbing together for the first time and there will be loose pieces.. I'd much rather those loose pieces be in a in a filter that in a garbage can then on my car.

 

I follow the suggested interval and take a sample for analysis at each change. For under $30, a lab can tell you how much life was left in the oil, what metals were present, how much water was in it, etc. I use blackstone labs, but I'm sure there are other companies out there also.