Hi - I have a 2007 XKR. Battery is completely dead and I cannot provide it voltage on either underside or through backseat. The key fob behind the number plate is also not operational. I have drilled hole behind number plate as per suggestions online for when keys locked in boot but no luck (is this method only an option for older XK's?) I cannot seem to find the latch when I insert my screwdriver into the hole.

Any help would be most welcome!

 

If you have access through the back seat (which it sounds like you do), reach in and hook the emergency trunk release that should be there. It will be a larger yellow handle.

 

Welcome to the forums extremejag.

PUT THE DRILL AWAY and buy some Locksmiths Graphite. Blow it into the keyhole in the bootlid and gradually insert/twist/remove the emergency key blade in the lock several times until it releases.

Graham

 

Just a question here...... WHY can't you apply voltage from underneath??? That IS the way to do it.

 

Cee Jay is right.

Read this old thread from 2012. Note: disregard the replies from owners of earlier X100 models.

Use the remote battery terminals under the left rear fender to get enough juice to use the unlock button on the dash to open the trunk. Then hook up at least a 10 amp battery charger directly to the battery. Note that 5.0L models should attach the negative charger pigtail to a chassis ground and not the negative battery terminal.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...n-trunk-87388/

Good luck!

 

The AA tried when I had a battery issue before and it was not taking a charge underneath... it was them that showed me the trick from behind the seat...

 

Is this only on a convertible?

 

I think this is what I was doing thru the back seat. The issue is that the battery is completely dead (I think it may have died and gone to heaven) and wont take any charge from another battery

 

Hi Graham

It is not that the lock is stuck... its that the whole mechanism is just turning around feely when I put the key in the lock.

 

in order to unlock the car using a fob, and not the key, there just needs to be just 10 v available to the system. Even if the battery is completely gone, attaching a proper charger, (and not a trickle charger )and leaving it attached during the process should do the trick.
The charger becomes the electrical source to the car in lieu of the battery. The only interference I see would be the main fuse.

As Cee Jay states, have a look under the LH fender and you will see a rubber boot. That is the positive terminal under there.
As for the lock barrel on the boot not operational…. that’s the first I’ve ever heard of that. Perhaps a locksmith??

I suppose you could go through the parcel shelf, and sort a clever and pretty way of covering the hole… before cutting.
And do note, I don’t eff around. I use the proper spec’d battery and replace it at the first signs of diminishing value.

 

Would not attaching a 12V battery not do the same thing?

 

is there an emergency release from the inside of the boot. I am wondering if I can go into the parcel shelf and release from there... there is a small gap I can create between the seats and the parcel shelf...

 

Only if you can guarantee the battery is suitably charged.
Yes, there is a release…

 

As guy just posted the picture of, that's the release I was speaking of. But it is on a convertible. I would think the coupe has it as well, but the way you responded makes me think it does not.

As far as connecting a battery to someplace outside the cabin, it can work IF the vehicle battery isn't truly shorted. If it is, (I've had one like this over the years) you will need a massive charger to overcome the dead short and get voltage to the car. A normal charger or jumper box will not do it.

Is it possible to pull the trim around the rear window down, remove it/crawl over the top of it to then pop open the hatch latch?

Let's clarify- extremejag- do you have a coupe or a convertible?

 

A fundamental question.

Nevertheless, the latch assembly and operating method is the same. It may help to see what you are fighting:





Unlike earlier models, there's no operating rods to backup the electric latch release. The emergency key rotates the arm on the rear of the lock (item 9) which pulls the bowden cable to release the latch (item 2). If the lock is just rotating, you do have a problem.

I don't think UK (European specification) models have the interior pull handle. It's been a while, but when I put someone in the boot, I expect them to stay there.

Graham

 

Hi - its a coupe...

I just bought a Noco Boost HD Jump Starter, 2000 Amps to see if that makes a difference. But I think it is shorted.

Fast running out of options though...

 

Thanks for the info... I wonder if I was able to take the key lock out whether I can manually pull the cable... Will try the booster power pack when that arrives... if it doesn't work at least I will have a very expensive USB charger.

 

That will supply 200 amps for about two seconds and be totally dead.
As stated above, get an actual CHARGER, the bigger the better.
Trickle, maintain, boost, jump...... those are terms that you do NOT want to go with.
Quit screwing around trying to get something to MAYBE work for cheap. You paid a whole lot for your car so you can pay a whole "lot" for a charger. Do what I did, and I'm sure a lot of other members have done.... you'll need one of these anyway if you get into SDD diagnostics stuff...

This is an actual Battery CHARGER, at Amazon

 

This is around the same price as the one I got...

 

and the same amps... so not sure if any better in reality but I may be completely wrong. I saw on a US video someone using the model I bought to start a XKR from a dead battery.