potential 2011 xk jaguar owner
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The trans fluid should be changed around 60,000 miles, but yours probably hasn't been done yet. That job is about $200 from an Indie shop, including the pan (w/filter), fluid and labor IF you buy your own pan and fluid.
Brake fluid should be changed every 2-4 years regardless.
Power steering fluid every now-and-again, wouldn't hurt and not expensive at all.
Coolant Flush is also a good idea. Again, not expensive. Also the water pump as some have had problems with them.
Your bushings may be good/may be bad...... only an inspection would tell. A few hundred for all of them, plus whatever labor if you don't do it yourself.
You already plan to do the brakes, so that's good. Also NOT expensive.
Since you've eluded that the exterior hasn't been cared for all that well, a good Paint Resto may make it look a WHOLE lot better, and that COULD be a bit pricey depending on where you take it.
Some have problems with the thermostat/housing, can't remember if it is on the N/A or the R, but again not costly. Coolant hoses tend to get brittle, some could probably use a change.
A new battery would probably be a benefit also.
All this...... means still not a ton of bucks. Although this car is what some call "Near Exotic", the maintenance and upkeep is not much more than any Camry or Accord.
Short Answer- - - Other than the Trans Fluid, you're probably good-to-go mechanically, with that stuff above an Advisory.
As a total guess not seeing what it all looks like, a good price for a non-supercharged 2011 with the 86k is probably still around $30,000-plus. With the slight problems you state it would probably sell (albeit somewhat slowly, normal for these cars) would be.... maybe $20-25k???
Looks Like Moses beat me to some of it. I typed more though...
Brake fluid should be changed every 2-4 years regardless.
Power steering fluid every now-and-again, wouldn't hurt and not expensive at all.
Coolant Flush is also a good idea. Again, not expensive. Also the water pump as some have had problems with them.
Your bushings may be good/may be bad...... only an inspection would tell. A few hundred for all of them, plus whatever labor if you don't do it yourself.
You already plan to do the brakes, so that's good. Also NOT expensive.
Since you've eluded that the exterior hasn't been cared for all that well, a good Paint Resto may make it look a WHOLE lot better, and that COULD be a bit pricey depending on where you take it.
Some have problems with the thermostat/housing, can't remember if it is on the N/A or the R, but again not costly. Coolant hoses tend to get brittle, some could probably use a change.
A new battery would probably be a benefit also.
All this...... means still not a ton of bucks. Although this car is what some call "Near Exotic", the maintenance and upkeep is not much more than any Camry or Accord.
Short Answer- - - Other than the Trans Fluid, you're probably good-to-go mechanically, with that stuff above an Advisory.
As a total guess not seeing what it all looks like, a good price for a non-supercharged 2011 with the 86k is probably still around $30,000-plus. With the slight problems you state it would probably sell (albeit somewhat slowly, normal for these cars) would be.... maybe $20-25k???
Looks Like Moses beat me to some of it. I typed more though...
Last edited by Cee Jay; 08-29-2017 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Moses beat me to the Post.
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Tervuren (08-30-2017)
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86K is not a whole lot of miles as far as I am concerned. I bought mine with 90K and have no issues. These cars were made extremely well and will last for many miles. I have 110K on the clock now and it looks and drives like new. OP - if the price is right and the pre-purchase inspection is good...then go for it.
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mosesbotbol (08-30-2017)
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If it were me; I would have a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) done by a dealer and I would then have a Jaguar approved body shop check out the car. Total cost around $500. If you do decide to go this route have the Jaguar dealer to a CPO inspection and get their recommendations which you can then use as a bargaining chip with the seller.
#11
If it were me; I would have a PPI (pre-purchase inspection) done by a dealer and I would then have a Jaguar approved body shop check out the car. Total cost around $500. If you do decide to go this route have the Jaguar dealer to a CPO inspection and get their recommendations which you can then use as a bargaining chip with the seller.
#12
86K is not a whole lot of miles as far as I am concerned. I bought mine with 90K and have no issues. These cars were made extremely well and will last for many miles. I have 110K on the clock now and it looks and drives like new. OP - if the price is right and the pre-purchase inspection is good...then go for it.
#13
I agree 100% Don't even think about buying your high mileage Jaguar car without every possible inspection possible. High Mileage Jaguars are not on the top of the list to GO BUY!....Good luck my friend. Personally..... I'd look away and find something else... But that's just my opinion.
OP, don't listen to people who don't actually drive their XK, instead listen to somebody that has over 110, 000 miles on the clock. 86K is the sweet spot to get a great car with many years left in it, at a fabulous price. Go for it.
Last edited by michaelodonnell123; 08-29-2017 at 09:14 PM.
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#14
Ditto, mine is up over 126k or so miles and I bought it with 124k. Yeah, I've been spending a ton of time getting the car sorted out but I also expect it'll be good for another 100k. Other than the crappy paint on the steel sub structures rusting the body is tight and makes no odd noises. If anything unless you want to be a curator of a museum be wary of the ones that are put in a coma between drives. Those cars suffer more than a daily driver. I have a preacher owned '68 Fairlane with 38k miles that's been in my museum (shed) since 1991. Should have sold it decades ago but I love looking at it too much.
#15
It's interesting, reading these comments... I've always been a member of the "cars are made to be driven" camp, and I continue to be so to this day.
But I'd never applied the thinking to my own car (we all ignore red flags when we're smitten...).
My 2010's in-service date was September 2009. One owner. I bought it almost exactly 6 years later, with about 7500 miles on it. (I also ignored the mini-flags that the owner was not, let's say, a loving Jag owner.) So, super low miles. A winner, right?
Since then, as some of you know, I've had a steady stream of issues. The last two major ones: the supercharger rebuild, just before my big cross-country drive east; the e-differential replacement at Jag of Great Neck while in NY. On the return trip to LA? Flawless.
My point? I bought my last car with 62,000 miles on it and I drove about another 50K before anything significant needed work. With this car, it feels as if it took my putting some serious miles on the car (it's got 41,000 miles now) to really work through things.
Miles are the enemy of the driver's seat, for sure. Everything else on the car, not as much.
But I'd never applied the thinking to my own car (we all ignore red flags when we're smitten...).
My 2010's in-service date was September 2009. One owner. I bought it almost exactly 6 years later, with about 7500 miles on it. (I also ignored the mini-flags that the owner was not, let's say, a loving Jag owner.) So, super low miles. A winner, right?
Since then, as some of you know, I've had a steady stream of issues. The last two major ones: the supercharger rebuild, just before my big cross-country drive east; the e-differential replacement at Jag of Great Neck while in NY. On the return trip to LA? Flawless.
My point? I bought my last car with 62,000 miles on it and I drove about another 50K before anything significant needed work. With this car, it feels as if it took my putting some serious miles on the car (it's got 41,000 miles now) to really work through things.
Miles are the enemy of the driver's seat, for sure. Everything else on the car, not as much.
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Tervuren (08-30-2017)
#16
You have only one question on your mind: will you do better buying a car with half the miles- absolutely not- just the opposite.
Mileage itself does not increase any risk between 45k and 85k.
However the 85k car has been discounted and all risk factored.
The 45k car has the same risk but has not been discounted.
Mileage itself does not increase any risk between 45k and 85k.
However the 85k car has been discounted and all risk factored.
The 45k car has the same risk but has not been discounted.
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Tervuren (08-30-2017)
#17
I agree 100% Don't even think about buying your high mileage Jaguar car without every possible inspection possible. High Mileage Jaguars are not on the top of the list to GO BUY!....Good luck my friend. Personally..... I'd look away and find something else... But that's just my opinion.
At the same time, every car will require proper servicing, and every car will need replacement of certain items (suspension bits, water pump, hoses, etc) after high mileages. This is to be considered normal and not a sign of poor engineering.
As a reality check, consider the maintenance cost of a low-mileage Ferrari. Terrifying.
Last edited by sov211; 08-30-2017 at 03:33 PM.
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ralphwg (08-30-2017)
#19
How a car has been cared for is far more important than the miles it has on the odometer.
I am looking to add an XKR. My top two choices of what is on the market sit at different extremes, one approaching 100K miles, and the other still in the teens.
For the difference in asking price between the two cars, I could rebuild the suspension, re cover the interior seats and steering wheel, and have the car repainted for less than the lower mileage car.
If you are mechanically inclined, I'd favor the higher mileage car.
On the bad end of the spectrum, are owners who use their car to drive to their mailbox and back. Low miles, but cold started every day, and driven less than a couple hundred feet.
I would favor either a low mileage, or well driven example. I feel that "mid mileage" is the worst deal of the three.
I am looking to add an XKR. My top two choices of what is on the market sit at different extremes, one approaching 100K miles, and the other still in the teens.
For the difference in asking price between the two cars, I could rebuild the suspension, re cover the interior seats and steering wheel, and have the car repainted for less than the lower mileage car.
If you are mechanically inclined, I'd favor the higher mileage car.
On the bad end of the spectrum, are owners who use their car to drive to their mailbox and back. Low miles, but cold started every day, and driven less than a couple hundred feet.
I would favor either a low mileage, or well driven example. I feel that "mid mileage" is the worst deal of the three.