Question for the group on a HUD experiment
Sorry everyone, I spent the last 2 weeks packing up & moving to a new place. I have the gauge hump & will get online today & get a HUD unit. I need to unpack all my tools & get a little organized. My goal is to start this project in the next 2-3 weeks. I'll post pics & updates as soon as i get going.
Note that HUDs connect in two manners: 1. To OBDII port or 2. to cigarette lighter port.
The cigarette lighter models can be hard wired, but it has to be to a separate female cigarette socket (available at Radio Shack) that itself is hard wired to 12 vt supply. You cannot just cut the wire from the HUD and splice to a 12Vt power source because the voltage in the HUD is not 12 VT. It is much less, like maybe 5 vt. the provided male socket reduces the voltage from 12 vt. Thus you must somehow retain the male socket.
I tried a couple of these. They had short lives, failing in weeks. Both were made by no-name mfgs in Taiwan and sold through Amazon. They are cheap, and not worth your money and time.
The cigarette lighter models can be hard wired, but it has to be to a separate female cigarette socket (available at Radio Shack) that itself is hard wired to 12 vt supply. You cannot just cut the wire from the HUD and splice to a 12Vt power source because the voltage in the HUD is not 12 VT. It is much less, like maybe 5 vt. the provided male socket reduces the voltage from 12 vt. Thus you must somehow retain the male socket.
I tried a couple of these. They had short lives, failing in weeks. Both were made by no-name mfgs in Taiwan and sold through Amazon. They are cheap, and not worth your money and time.
Note that HUDs connect in two manners: 1. To OBDII port or 2. to cigarette lighter port.
The cigarette lighter models can be hard wired, but it has to be to a separate female cigarette socket (available at Radio Shack) that itself is hard wired to 12 vt supply. You cannot just cut the wire from the HUD and splice to a 12Vt power source because the voltage in the HUD is not 12 VT. It is much less, like maybe 5 vt. the provided male socket reduces the voltage from 12 vt. Thus you must somehow retain the male socket.
I tried a couple of these. They had short lives, failing in weeks. Both were made by no-name mfgs in Taiwan and sold through Amazon. They are cheap, and not worth your money and time.
The cigarette lighter models can be hard wired, but it has to be to a separate female cigarette socket (available at Radio Shack) that itself is hard wired to 12 vt supply. You cannot just cut the wire from the HUD and splice to a 12Vt power source because the voltage in the HUD is not 12 VT. It is much less, like maybe 5 vt. the provided male socket reduces the voltage from 12 vt. Thus you must somehow retain the male socket.
I tried a couple of these. They had short lives, failing in weeks. Both were made by no-name mfgs in Taiwan and sold through Amazon. They are cheap, and not worth your money and time.
A couple of years ago I tried aftermarket HUDs as sold through Amazon. There appears to be two basic technologies used to read speed: 1. a wired connection through the OBDII port; and 2. a GPS speed reader.
I bought both examples. They were cheap. Some of these units are sold through apparent USA corporations. The units I bought were made in Taiwan, maybe by the same manufacturer.
Installation was comparatively easy, but I was not dazzled with the performance. Image faded in bright sun, even with the reflective patch on the windshield. I removed them after about three weeks.
I don't think really good HUDs are available cheaply. HUD is not a cheap oem option - like $900 extra on a Mercedes S Class. Tesla, perhaps a leader in information technology, does not offer HUD.
I bought both examples. They were cheap. Some of these units are sold through apparent USA corporations. The units I bought were made in Taiwan, maybe by the same manufacturer.
Installation was comparatively easy, but I was not dazzled with the performance. Image faded in bright sun, even with the reflective patch on the windshield. I removed them after about three weeks.
I don't think really good HUDs are available cheaply. HUD is not a cheap oem option - like $900 extra on a Mercedes S Class. Tesla, perhaps a leader in information technology, does not offer HUD.
I was the guy trying to fit one of those & the problem is the angle of the hump piece on our dash. The only way to make this look even close to a factory setup throws the projection way to high up on the windshield. It just winds up being distracting. The corvettes I had all projected down beneath your site line & that’s the ideal location. The only way I could see this project being successful is if someone custom molded a new hump piece & has it wrapped in leather & you try to keep somewhat of a stock look.






