I'm in the middle of replacing my water pump after a catastrophic failure, it dumped all the coolant on one huge rush, it was pouring out of the pump like a water fall. Luckily I'd just pulled up at my pals house, so no chance of overheating it.

Got a new pump, but the parts guy at the Jag dealership told me I'd only need one new seal for the plastic pipe behind the pump. Well I've had it on and off at least six times over the last couple of days and each time it leaks, the coolant runs out from behind the pump every time I fill it. I've tried everything I can think of including silicone lube, and the last time in desperation l used silicone sealer on the seals but even that didn't help. It's like the seals aren't there at all.

This is very frustrating. Before I make another 400 miles round trip drive to the Jag dealer to get two more seals, I thought I'd ask if anyone else has done this job and might have some advice. This thing is really kicking my @ss.
Regards,

 

I can't help you with your WP problem but this might spare you some drive time. I've heard good things about these guys (good quality, good service) and they're closer to you.

Metric Auto Parts - Home

No affiliation

 

Don't touch the car yourself. This leak could be catastrophic if not repaired correctly. Let the dealership handle it. It's a common issue and the weakest link to ownership of our cars......water pump, coolant leaks.

 

Could be the crossover pipe if it is a non-supercharged engine. They break often. $100.00 part. Search the XF forum for more info. You will need to take off the intake manifold to replace it. The other place would be the tube that connects behind the water pump. About a $15.00 part and comes with new ribbed o-rings. Just buy the tube (not just the o-rings), they come with the ribbed o-rings. the plastic tube gets brittle with age.

 

Here is the XF link

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ngines-143771/

 

It took me multiple attempts to get the plastic pipe behind the water pump in properly. There is nothing wrong with you seals.

The pipe is smaller than the gap between the water pump and the metal pipe in between the block.

I found that pushing it into the water pump first , bolt the pump up then push the pipe onto the metal pipe with a long screwdriver.

Check if it's seated properly by blowing into the radiator resivour.

If you can't blow, the pipe is on properly

I would love to know how they do this in the dealers as the workshop manual just says refit is the reversal of taking it off.

 

Polyesterpig,
Many, many thanks, it was the crossover pipe. I was beginning to suspect something like that, as I could see the bottom of the crossover pipe when the water pump had been removed, but not see where it was leaking. The leak was always so large, that I couldn't believe that much coolant could pass the seals in the short oil cooler extension pipe behind the water pump.

Although the water pump had some bearing plaything made one think it was the culprit, in fact the pump had not failed, it was crossover pipe. It's all in pieces now awaiting parts. I'll reassemble next weekend, then hopefully all will be well.

What a great forum, without the postings of all those who took the time to describe the crossover pipe failure it would have been so much harder.
Regards,

 

M20nuts,
Yes I agree that short extension pipe for the oil cooler is a PIA. I've done it so many times I almost feel I could do it in my sleep, I did it both ways, extension on the pump, and on the metal oil cooler pipe, I even tried to use 2 seals over the metal oil cooler pipe, but there was not enough room for that. Good idea to blow into the reservoir to see if you get pressure.
Regards,

 

Very interesting read from that thread, thanks for sharing. One of the biggest gripes on my previous BMW 650 was that there were so many early failures in seals and plastic parts, specifically plastic used in the coolant system. Looks like Jaguar has implemented the same manufacturing costs savings at the expense of the future owners.

Congrats for sticking with this and getting to the root cause. Folks like you and the guys on that XF thread blaze a trail for future DIY'ers.

Perhaps you could post a XK specific step by step guide for this fix?

 

Earlier this year the dealer fixed the one on my 2010 more or less for the cost of the water pump. They should do the same on your 2011.

 

The supercharged engines don't have the crossover tube issue. Theirs is made from aluminum and plastic sections. Ours is a one piece part that is plastic welded together. The welded seam is where they always split. When I get time, I'm going to see if the supercharged crossover tube can be made to fit the non-supercharged engine. In the link below, you can see they are shaped differently, but since it is in sections with clamps, I might be able to rotate the shape of the supercharged tube. As you can see, there is no welded seam on the supercharged tube.

See message# 11 in the link

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-seal-161757/

 

First picture shows the crossover pipe, the left side is cracked along the join of the two halves.

This is were the crossover pipe lives, under the intake manifold. Please forgive the condition, it's not cleaned up having just been taken apart. The oil cooler and its metal inlet tube is clearly visible, as are the two large coolant filled holes into which the crossover pipe fits.
If your coolant is leaking from behind your water pump, then it's than likely your crossover pipe is the cause.

Replacing it is not that difficult, but perhaps not for the faint hearted as the intake manifold must at least be lifted. Take your time, needless to say do not force the plastic parts, be careful bending them, do not force the connections, they WILL break.

I have not reassembled it yet, but it looks like you can install the water pump, with its short plastic oil cooler connection and new O rings, before mounting the intake manifold. That would give you an excellent view ensuring you have both ends securely in place, which would not possible otherwise.
Regards

 

Do you suggest changing the oil after the car overheated? (If it overheated).

 

Polyesterpig,
It didn't overheat, the pipe split as we pulled into his driveway. If it had overheated no doubt it would be a good idea to change the oil, even as in my case, the oil was synthetic.
Regards,

 

White Bear,
Make sure you bleed that system carefully and fully. Many overheat issues have raised their head even after replacement parts were installed due to improper bleeding due to the fact that the 5.0 engine is tricky to bleed. I suggest vacuum bleeding. We, at the dealer, do only that.

Cheers,
Chris

 

Cdubu
Chris, thanks for the warning.
In the absence of a vacuum bleeder, can you offer any advice on how to fully bleed the cooling system?
Regards,

 

White Bear,
I'm sorry for the late reply. There should be a coolant pipe on the a bank side of the engine (passanger) with a plastic plug in it. That would be the bleed plug. With the engine off your should be able to put coolant in the engine and have it burp out there. With the engine running I would do the normal: run the heater, etc.
But, I would let it sit and burp it again from that hose. Not to be redundant but I have seen these engines trap air in a sneaky way and overheat rapidly as a result.
Hope that helps. And, again, my apologies for the late reply.

Cheers

 

So after reading this thread.......is the culprit for all the many many waterpump replacements and overheating actually the fault of the crossover pipe or a combination of both the crossover pipe and the waterpump?

 

Bocatrip,
All I can say is if your crossover pipe is leaking, replacing your water pump will not solve your problem, the reverse is also true. There is a good argument to be made that if you must replace one, then replace both, but there's a quandary. You might be replacing a known good crossover pipe, with a new one that might leak. Personally I see that as a pessimistlcly flawed argument, but I do admit infant part mortality is a reality.

My visit to my local Jaguar dealer for replacement parts today did not go well. Many parts have been updated and replaced. Confusion reigned supreme after two hours of my explaining and pointing out to the parts man the parts book is apparently incomplete, as it clearly did not reflect the car I own and personally disassembled, and he retired in frustration. He insisted, before leaving that I will have to physically produce all the failed parts before he will sell me any parts at all!
The fact they are in northern Minnesota 200 miles away did not concern him at all...
Good Grief and Buggar!
"Oh Lord defend those of us you've blessed with mechanical skills from the vagrancies of ignorant and heartless parts men who will not see!"
Time to put the Cardinal to work, the fuel costs alone are going to double cost of this repair...
Regards,