Oh yeah... I was able to lift it off myself once I broke it free. Those two little studs were what was holding it, just like Addicted2boost suggested. It was heavy and awkward, but it wasn't too difficult for an old fart. A second person would have been no help unless the hood was removed, and I'm trying to avoid that.

 

Underneath this foam insulation are 2 breathers that are for the PCV system. They are a rubber diaphragm and do go bad. When they go bad it’s an unmetered air leak that makes the engine run poorly. I’ve replaced several of them. I know this is insignificant until you get to reassembly but I forget a lot and wanted to tell you now rather than never.

I know you have a long process ahead of you and I give you maximum props for tackling this job. I hate to say it but you’ll want to take the hood off now as you’ll need to get to the front of the engine without anything in the way.

 

I sprayed the CRC into a different place, the brake booster vacuum line connection on the RHS of the engine (looking from the driver's seat) see here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...2/#post2182115
This was on my V6 F-Type and I can't remember if the earlier V8 SC has the same line and connector or not, but if it does then the same method I used will work.

 

Here's part two! Thanks everyone for your help! I honestly don't think I could do this with the insight of the members on this forum. When I run into trouble you guys bail me out. Lifting the supercharger off was much more difficult than I expected. It's not that heavy, but I couldn't figure out why is seemed to be stuck. I tried off and on for three or four days before I finally figured it out.

 

+1 on the breathers, inexpensive and easy to replace, now. Also take this opportunity to replace every coolant pipe and hose, such as the rear crossover and the front crossover, etc. Parts are cheap and labor even cheaper, now. Also might consider having at go and cleaning the carbon buildup. Make sure you pug up the holes on the manifolds.

 

That was tough and the rear connector position just ridiculous. Engine and transmission goes in as a single assembly on the production line and clearly zero thought was given to subsequent dismantling.

I've often struggled with engines by myself and have found triangular wooden wedges to be a great help. Where you had to fight with the SC and then put it back down again several times, wedging could have maintained the lift position advantage gained.

Graham

 

Any tips on removing the fuel rail? I've got the bolts out, and I can wiggle it, but it really doesn't want to come off. The only thing holding it at this point is the O-rings on the fuel injectors.

 

Never mind. I got it off. Finally. It was a PITA.

 

I use an angled prybar like the one pictured in my above photos but not a 3 footer. I would use about a 1.5-2 footer and sometimes a small wooden wedge as potentially more leverage depending on what you have. After you get the fuel rail off, this is where you need more specialty tools. You absolutely must remove the fuel injectors that are pressed into the head prior to removing the valve (or cam) cover. It takes a small slide hammer and an adapter to yank those injectors out without destroying them. In the past, I have removed bad injector(s) with large vice grips and some other methods that I can’t remember to take them out. If you don’t have a prybar, maybe (??) you can use your tire iron as a possibility to remove the fuel rail? 🤷🤷 Just be careful because the valve cover is plastic and it can only take so much pressure.

 

I already got the first injector out, but I bent it in the process. The injector removal tool I bought came from Amazon, and as I was trying to use it something didn't seem right. It had to be rotated 90 degrees in order to make the clamp grab onto the injector.

After I got the first injector out I brought the tool into the house to compare it to the tool shown on Alldata. Sure enough, the maker of my tool bent the handle 90 degrees off. The slots on the clamp I receives are on the left and right, but the should be on the top and bottom. I already ordered a replacement, but it won't be here until Wednesday.

 

I've been reading ahead in the disassembly process and just realized I might need to lift the car to remove the exhaust manifold. Does anyone know if it can be removed from the top side? I'm terrified of getting under the car these days. Well, not literally terrified, but the thought of it doesn't appeal to me. I used to use Harbor Freight jack stands. I'm lucky I survived.

If I need to get under the car to unbolt the exhaust manifold, I'm going to splurge on one of those $1500 Quickjacks.

 

See post 20 in SBS’ repair which is similar to your nightmare.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post2289302

 

@Reverend Sam , I’m enjoying this thread. And your labour.
I am still in disbelief that the dealer turned you away…. clearly you’re better off without them. Perhaps you should sell spectator tickets to their mechanics and service writers to witness how the job can be done. Perhaps a group pricing of USD14,000.

 

And if you’re disconnecting the exhaust manifolds… are you going to polish them? remove the castings marks on the inside??
(now I’m just being a troublemaker, sorry. ;-)

 

Would people buy tickets to see me standing around trying to figure out how to remove a bolt, and then trying five different wrenches, and then cussing a lot, and then trying the same five wrenches all over again while cussing a lot, and then getting my hand stuck in the car and cussing some more?

And then standing around trying to figure out how to remove the same bolt?

 

On my 19th birthday I was working under my Mercury which was on a ramp. Well, the ramp support on one side failed and I got pinned longitudinally underneath the 20-foot 4X12, with my car still on it. I was in the hospital for a couple days for only a broken arm, but the docs thought I'd smashed both hips. Good thing I didn't, cuz the ramp fell onto my Craftsman tool kit, which I had placed under the ramp by my head. If I'd not done that, I'd a been deader than ****.

 

You're my hero!!!

 

My dad taught me to always put the wheel under the car when it's up on a jack. That was back in the late 70's/early 80's when nobody used jack stands. If the jack failed the wheel would at least prevent you from being completely crushed.

In the little town I grew up in a guy was working on his car and he had it sitting on cinder blocks. One of them broke. The car fell on him and it killed him. It made the news. It convinced me that my dad was right (even though I was a teenager and I thought my dad was an idiot).

 

The wolf gets a big kick out of watching me do the above. Over and over and...

 

You are most welcome! I like to read all the forum DIYs as can always learn something.
You are MY hero with your documented efforts. Thank you.
I’ll be doing the valley hoses before long and the supercharger removal (and anticipated reassembly) you describe will be very useful.