Purchased mine last October and didn't have the leak issue. noticed my air wasn't very cool so I charged the system and wala, leak, big leak. Good news is air is cold, bad news, leak, big leak. So I have AC but just can't use it for long periods of time.

Did the above and worked for me for about 2 weeks then had to do it again.

Can you access the duck bill if you remove a section of exhaust?

I would really like to cut it.

 

If mine plugs up again I'm thinking about taking the blower motor out again and squirting some Mr Clean or Spic n Span into the plastic tank that the tube drains from. Maybe that will clean out the tube so it stays open longer. That can't hurt anything can it?

Govtslug

 

Problem is I think the tube was originally designed to be flexible and would expand easily. as they age they stiffen and no longer expand as it was designed.

I think cut or replace are the only true options.

As far as adding a detergent that may make it worse. If you can reach it with compressed air that might clean it out better. Just sounds like a temporary fix much like tapping it and you're better off finding a solution IMO.

 

There's also been a suggestion that the two sides of the duckbill tend to get stuck together, particularly when there isn't a regular flow through it. That's why the revised version has most of one side of the bill removed.

 

I've been worried about this A/C drain issue since getting my 07 XK last Nov.
Well, this weekend has been extremely humid, and when I backed the car out of the garage I found 2 puddles under her, one on each side of the transmission, so I guess I currently don't have an issue. Don't know if a previous owner had the 'permanent' fix done to it. :-)

 

OK.....
If I used a Dremel with a cutting wheel and cut out a section in that area, what should I see? Would it be the funnel with the drain hose connected. Need to determine the size and shape of the cut.
The obvious goal would be to create an access door to the area for a maintenance clean periodically.

 

My guess is: that conical section is the funnel, i.e. it is the actual moulding that the water flows down into the tube outlet. If you really want to take a pop at it, I'd suggest just drilling a hole as high up the side as possible, and as far towards the rear too. That way, you're out of the main flow/pooling zone. And you should be able to poke something (wire, pipe cleaner) through the hole and down into the tube to pop it open. At least you'll only have a small hole to plug.

 

Hmm? Thanks for that valuable comment. Will re-position my surgical incision.

 

A Automotive Mechanic Camera Scope with light i think would work, drill hole and insert and you can view whats on the dark side

 

Hmm..... Good Idea, Thanks!
When I'm finished can use for my colonoscopy LOL!

 

Ok, I give up. I've tried closing the vents and turning the fan on high, banging on the plastic condenser box, and praying to the Druids. These all worked temporarily, but the drain re-clogged. Since i won't let my wife turn on the a/c, she is ready to kill me. I just hired a shop to remove the dash and replace the drain with the updated part.

It books as a 10 hour job. I called two Jag dealers, one wanted $800 and the other wanted $1350 for the exact same job! The lower one charged the actual hours to do it, they must be good at it. For this price, it better fix the problem forever.

Govtslug

 

I was charged £495 that included a discount as they originally wanted £620 to have the aircon vent pipe replaced, mine was leaking all over the passenger footwell which discintigrated the insulation under the blower motor. Luckily the blower motor still works ok even though that had water inside of it when I dropped it originally to investigate.

 

Here's the link i saw on a different fix option if someone wants to try,
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ed-how-114884/

 

Should you choose to do the direct fix to the "duckbill" consider what refrigerator repairmen do. Modern refrigerators have automatic defrost cycles. The ice melt water is drained to a pan beneath the refrigerator where it evaporates. The vertical drain line is protected from back draft by a simple rubber duckbill "valve" much like the Jaguar. In time this valve gets gummy and sticks together. Perhaps it degrades with age. Our repairman enhanced the drainage capabilities by cutting with a simple wide "V-shaped" notch out of the bottom of the duck bill. Repairman claimed that back draft would be minimum.

 

Hey guys, I thought I would offer an update on this thread. I previously mentioned in another AC fix thread that I would attempt to cut into the funnel, but since this thread talks about cutting the funnel, I thought I would share what I found today.


I drilled a hole into the funnel and the outer piece actually broke off. Behind the outer plastic "mold - funnel" is a rubber foam material. That was also coming out in a few chunks.


I stopped drilling / cutting as I was unsure of what I actually was cutting into.
Thought on where the drain would be? Is it directly below the funnel? Is it on the other side of the firewall "ahead" of the funnel?


I live in Florida and normally I will get a few drops under the car or more recently...water in the footwell. My BMW leaks like crazy.


Today could have been the driest day I've seen. 20% humidity... I don't think I can even get the car to leak today with the AC on.. Im unsure if I will feel moisture in the new hole I cut... or if I havn't cut far enough.


I figured worse car scenario, dash has to come out anyway to fix this...that's why I decided to give it a shot. Unfortunately, the evaporator is crazy hot when you have the car running trying to feel moisture... a nice burn told me it was time to rethink this.


I can grab another pic tomorrow, but I actually drilled in deeper than these pics show.. seems to be lots of insulation in there. I didn't see any metal (other than the fire wall / trans tunnel" right in front of funnel).



I should note that I was able to insert a thin piece of wire into the insulation and I thought I feel it get hollow as I slid it past the insulation. Is the water being funneled into hard plastic or rubber? I know the duckbill is rubber..but I am really confused on to what I saw / felt today.





Thanks,
Joe

 

The duckbill is on the other side of the firewall, sticking out above the transmission.

I'm surprised there's insulation in there - seems like it would act as a sponge and retain water. But maybe it's to stop condensate from sloshing around before it builds up enough to open the duckbill. Dunno, never seen inside the casing.

 

any luck with this? i'm trying to figure out how to remove the carpeting and what to tap on

 

Just tried this, I got some dripping water underneath the car, but its still dripping into the footwell like rain

any tips?

 

Hi Joe, any luck with this? how did it work out for you
thanks

 

I'm confused (as usual); are we talking about the vertical carpet against the transmission hump NOT the actual passenger footwell carpet?

Thanks , cheers, Adrian