I baught 2 xj8 with 2 non jag dealership, one due to the arden suspension module added turned to be a 18 months nightmare. The other one, I did not drive 500 meters from the dealership that i had the suspension warning, we update all 4 suspension with 2 front triangle 4 new tires, total cost 4500 euros for no changes of handling same kangooroo drive with a car adjusting his air suspension like if you were inside a kangaroo. No jokes i still have the nausea...I also had 3 times the distribution chain redone and it was a puley that needed to be changed and the chain (chain was elongated.)

on the blue xj with the 4500 repair for no changes. the non jag dealer agreed to pay the tax on it. i let you know in case this helps. I contacted him and I was not nice. anyway he was what I will call a crook. I paid all the repair of course for nothing , i sold the car to a guy which i explained the whole situation, he said i love it like it is very soft and kangooroo style, i replied, its perfect, 4 months past and i saw the car in the dealer,he filled out the water cooling tank with oil....but all the jags i sold to people, they were so happy, they called me a year after to tell how good they were, one had a battery issue which i helped to open the trunk.

What I was trying to say is that really I will buy a jag after a guy like me as I really go the extra mile at keeping all perfect and in great working order, surely better than a non jag dealer and maybe as good or better as some jag dealers. Its a matter of looking at the papers, invoices and books. last xk I baught at jaguar marseille had no books, but it has run like a new one, it was perfect, though.

from my experience buying 10 used jags, they took advantage of you, and they leave it to a non jag dealer so you can't complain much, but still ( of course they don't understand nothing to jags but they could know basically if something is wrong) . A good jag dealer should get you out of these issues quickly I will say.

also re the battery, i 'm unsure i got it right but , does the trick of the on and off screen happenned before with the original battery, and will a jag dealer won't have you set up with another battery? more accurate? can you change it to the exact original one if the screen issue was not there before?

I told you too, I have that kind of signs like a pieton with a triangle, it seems to be the front radar to detect object but I don't have the option. appearing twice now. it makes me laugh now.
I still stop, shut off the engine and it 's not there anymore...well it must be the downers of computering but we do have a lot of advantages. I regret each day not taking my car for along drive, I can tell you know, nothing compensate it, I have watched video, forums, I just try to keep the mileage low, as i work from home and i don't have a lot to do outside, except getting out to breathe a bit a fresh air. I regret I am not into long distances to enjoy it more, that's all i regret, I also try to keep the mileage low indeed, to resell it if needed. It is 12 thousands miles now.

I should say, for the xj8 blue were the seller/dealer paid the tax at least on the repair, the dealer who diagnosed the problem, charged them so between dealers they don't have to pay taxes, at least it was a bit of economy, if this can be of any help, and i hope maybe you got a good deal on the purchase price which let you a good merge to fix these things.

 

Might be similar to the same problem I have been experiencing for a year now. The AGM was not a fix.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...n-light-69497/

Logic tells me mine is a sensor issue. Something has not given the ECU a "good to go" signal by the time I press the start button. So cycling power clears it and fires the engine on the next try.

V

 

I had that happened too once or twice already with both xk...

 

Mine is pretty consistent, so it wont take a lot for a tech to find.
I've gotten use to it (it starts every time on the third press) and just figure next time I get to the dealership I'll have them dig into it for me.

No delay for me though... Hit the button for lights, hit it again to power down, and hit the third time to start....Just that quick.

V

 

CleverName, for me, I almost think it's the start button itself. A couple times, I swear I've pushed the button to shut off the engine and it didn't shut off the first time.

 

So the last 3 commutes, I've had both seat heaters on full the entire time, and the car doesn't seem to be exhibiting any of the weird downshift behavior yet. I'm not ready to declare the electrical problems solved, but it is somewhat encouraging!

I was able to get the whirring sound this morning as well. However, I won't share the recording because it's about the same as the one I posted yesterday and isn't my best cinematic work.

 

so i tried for you this morning to pay attention, normally I just push the button and i push the accelerator to turn on the engine straight, but this morning I started the car first and then I turned on the engine, pushing a second time the button then the screen went off 1 second and went back on. if it is what you wanted to know?

 

I listened but it's very hard to hear, although I hear some things that could be abnormal. Not sure enough to conclude though.

A pulley bearing noise has two possible characteristics:

1. The bearing is bad but not too bad. You will hear it on cold startups but after a while it is gone.
2. The bearing is really bad and you will hear it all the time.

The best way to check is to remove the belt and turn the pulleys by hand. The bad bearing will make a sound and feel different than others. The other way is to check with another XKR if possible.

It is possible for a bearing to go bad at that mileage. On my previous car, an SLK32AMG, I had the belt broken because of a bad pulley bearing at 60.000 miles. I warned the dealer before because it only made a noise the first 20 seconds after startup. They said everything was ok. Later they had to repair all of it under warranty.
At 80.000 miles the supercharger bearing went bad.

Then I got bored about it and bought a Jag

 

How much do you think it would cost to replace the supercharger bearing?

 

The previous run's seat heater settings being remembered seems to be a
feature not a bug. I mean I'd want that. It would do the same if it was a
mechanical switch too right?

Are you saying that even with the ignition off, the seats are still being
heated (so depleting the battery)? If so that WOULD be a problem.

BTW I just checked and my 2008 XKR Portfolio does exactly the same as your video.

 

The bearing alone is not expensive, might be around $ 40,- Labour is not too costly, as it is easy reachable. No experience with a Jag though, on a Merc I did it in 45 minutes with the right tools.

Some brands only sell the bearing with the whole pulley. That will be more expensive. It's an option to remove the pulley and see if just the bearing can be replaced. Then you get just the bearing from SKF or INA. Maybe someone already did it on a previous model XKR and documented it somewhere on the net.

I'd first diagnose by removing the belt before doing anything.

 

The dealer said they removed the supercharger belt and couldn't find anything. But I'm finding it hard to trust what they tell me since they couldn't find the source of a fairly obvious noise.

I hesitate to do my own investigating, because the shop manual says I need to jack the car up in order to access a lot of this stuff, and my jack/jackstands are not at my apartment (stored in another location)--plus the car is still under Select Edition warranty so I feel like I shouldn't have to do my own wrenching at this point!

 

I have no evidence that the seat warmers actually stay on after shutting off the car. However, it did seem at times (at least with my old battery) that the seat warmers would sometimes be on when I turned the car on the next time, and sometimes be off. Maybe after several minutes it reverts to being off?

 

After 30 seconds according to one document I have. Same as the heated front and rear screens apparently.

 

As long as the car is under warranty I wouldn't worry too much. If they failed to diagnose the problem they will pay the price if a bearing fails. You could try to put your ear close (not too close) to the bearings and check if you hear something like a metallic scraping sound. A bad bearing will certainly be audible over the other noises.

 

This is the tool of preference, you can also use a very long screwdriver with the handle pressed firmly against your ear, and the tip against areas you want to listen to.

Vince

 

I thought I was in the clear with my transmission downshifting issue, but at the end of my one and a half hour pleasure drive, the dang problem came back.

I think it's pretty clear that it's some sort of software issue. I'm going to take it back to the dealer so that they can perhaps reload the software, and also look into the whirring sound.

Here is another video of my lazy downshifting issue. However, the top was down so you can't hear much.

 

Vince,
Re your starting issue; try pressing the brake pedal a couple of times to enable the start button. There is a pressure switch in the brake system that may need cycling; you can feel it by the pedal travel. Sometime it gets confused after using the parking brake...................
Hope this helps................ Adrian

 

The thing about that is it only makes the noise sometimes. And I don't want to be removing the engine cover every time I want to go for a drive.

Can I leave the engine cover off? The XKR has hood vents and I don't know if it's a good idea to have water dripping into there.

 

Mine sometimes takes quite a strong push on the brake, (i.e. beyond the point it gets hard to push) to get the start button to work.

What is the point of an electronic parking brake anyway? I never use mine. It seems totally redundant. You certainly don't need the 'parking brake' for parking in an automatic. In 35 years of driving, any automatic I've had I've always just parked the car in P, even on hills, with never any problems.

Unlike a proper mechanical hand brake, an electronic one will overrule you so wont come on if you're moving at all. This is dangerous as it now can't be used if your main brakes ever fail. Also gone are those 'advanced' cornering techniques. I wish they'd go back to mechanical hand brakes. Electronic ones are both totally useless and entirely pointless.