Thread about my XKR!
#101
#103
The parking brake on my '09 XKR does not set itself automatically. To set the parking brake, pull the chrome handle (in front of the armrest) up and release it.
The parking brake automatically releases when you start to drive or move the gear selector out of P. You can also manually release the parking brake by pressing the chrome handle down and releasing it.
Stuart
The parking brake automatically releases when you start to drive or move the gear selector out of P. You can also manually release the parking brake by pressing the chrome handle down and releasing it.
Stuart
#104
Vince,
Re your starting issue; try pressing the brake pedal a couple of times to enable the start button. There is a pressure switch in the brake system that may need cycling; you can feel it by the pedal travel. Sometime it gets confused after using the parking brake...................
Hope this helps................ Adrian
Re your starting issue; try pressing the brake pedal a couple of times to enable the start button. There is a pressure switch in the brake system that may need cycling; you can feel it by the pedal travel. Sometime it gets confused after using the parking brake...................
Hope this helps................ Adrian
I disagree; pumping the brake pedal can make starting more difficult.
This actually happened to me a couple of years ago when I picked up my XKR after being serviced at my Jaguar dealer. I was embarrassed when I couldn't get it to crank right in front of my service adviser's office. I didn't realize it but I inadvertently stepped on the brake pedal several times while I was talking to him and when I pressed the start button (with the brake pedal already depressed) nothing happened - like it was totally dead. He then got in the car and the next thing I knew he started it right up. He explained that this happens all the time. Here's what he said:
If you pump the brake pedal before you press the start button, your brake pedal will be high and might not make contact the starter interlock switch.
If you press and hold the start button BEFORE you step on the brake pedal, the car should start as soon as you touch the brake pedal. If not, then you have to stand really hard on the brake pedal while keeping the start button depressed. (Note that most other cars are the opposite; the driver must step on the brake pedal before turning the key or pressing the start button.)
See this thread:https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...se-time-57460/
Stuart
#105
#106
Mine sometimes takes quite a strong push on the brake, (i.e. beyond the point it gets hard to push) to get the start button to work.
What is the point of an electronic parking brake anyway? I never use mine. It seems totally redundant. You certainly don't need the 'parking brake' for parking in an automatic. In 35 years of driving, any automatic I've had I've always just parked the car in P, even on hills, with never any problems.
Unlike a proper mechanical hand brake, an electronic one will overrule you so wont come on if you're moving at all. This is dangerous as it now can't be used if your main brakes ever fail. Also gone are those 'advanced' cornering techniques. I wish they'd go back to mechanical hand brakes. Electronic ones are both totally useless and entirely pointless.
What is the point of an electronic parking brake anyway? I never use mine. It seems totally redundant. You certainly don't need the 'parking brake' for parking in an automatic. In 35 years of driving, any automatic I've had I've always just parked the car in P, even on hills, with never any problems.
Unlike a proper mechanical hand brake, an electronic one will overrule you so wont come on if you're moving at all. This is dangerous as it now can't be used if your main brakes ever fail. Also gone are those 'advanced' cornering techniques. I wish they'd go back to mechanical hand brakes. Electronic ones are both totally useless and entirely pointless.
#107
I don't think the starting issue has anything to do with the brake switch. I have tried before, and you get the same issue even getting the ignition into accessory mode (to listen to the radio, etc., with the engine off). This requires no brake at all! Something odd is going on with our cars!
Annoyingly, my screen locked today on startup at the logo screen. Annoying. However, upon restart (which did take 3 tries), the home screen popped up immediately like normal. In the past, if I had the issue of a locked screen, the logo screen would stay on for 20 minutes, even if restarting.
I do enjoy being an involved owner, but it seems to me that there are many electrical design problems with this car, which are manageable, but probably go unnoticed by most of us. I bet you most of us have the issue with the rev-matching downshifts not working properly sometimes, but so few of us actually use the paddle shifters religiously that nobody notices. Same thing with this ignition issue--people chalk it up to not pushing the brake pedal hard enough.
My car is still under warranty and I am going to take the car back there and see if the dealer can't figure some of this out. But I have a feeling that many of these issues have never been resolved and there is no solution for them. It sorta scares me that the car is having this many nagging electrical issues now. I can only imagine what keeping this car running will be like in 10 years.
Annoyingly, my screen locked today on startup at the logo screen. Annoying. However, upon restart (which did take 3 tries), the home screen popped up immediately like normal. In the past, if I had the issue of a locked screen, the logo screen would stay on for 20 minutes, even if restarting.
I do enjoy being an involved owner, but it seems to me that there are many electrical design problems with this car, which are manageable, but probably go unnoticed by most of us. I bet you most of us have the issue with the rev-matching downshifts not working properly sometimes, but so few of us actually use the paddle shifters religiously that nobody notices. Same thing with this ignition issue--people chalk it up to not pushing the brake pedal hard enough.
My car is still under warranty and I am going to take the car back there and see if the dealer can't figure some of this out. But I have a feeling that many of these issues have never been resolved and there is no solution for them. It sorta scares me that the car is having this many nagging electrical issues now. I can only imagine what keeping this car running will be like in 10 years.
#108
As long as your brake lights come on, you've depressed the peddle as far as needed.
There are, however, a passel of other devices that have to issue he ECU a "go/no-go" signal, from the 10-odd immobileizer sub-systems, to the fuel pump and TCM before it will trigger the starter relay.
These sundry areas are most likely where my problem lies.
V
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amcdonal86 (04-09-2013)
#109
But then why does it seem to happen even when you're just trying to go into accessory mode? Or is this just special about my car?
Try playing around with the ignition next time when you are in the car. Don't touch the brake pedal, and just keep hitting the ignition button to turn the car onto accessory/on mode. I think eventually you may have a problem.
Try playing around with the ignition next time when you are in the car. Don't touch the brake pedal, and just keep hitting the ignition button to turn the car onto accessory/on mode. I think eventually you may have a problem.
#110
Sounds like my issues are getting more and more serious. Today was the hottest day we've had in a while--90 degrees--and it probably won't be this hot for a while. The engine was making this strange whirring/whining sound. It's much louder in person than it is in the videos I made. I took another video earlier where the noise was more noticeable but my camera was not recording audio for some reason.
I think it could be related to the other cold whirring sound. What do you think? I'm getting really annoyed!!!
I think it could be related to the other cold whirring sound. What do you think? I'm getting really annoyed!!!
#111
#113
The only way you will truly be able to identify what is making that sound is to examine each of the items driven by the belts under load. (I think someone else suggested this a well) If you have a long metal breaker bar or something similar, take your engine cover off, get someone to rev your engine to 2500 to 3000 rpms and use the metal bar like a stethoscope. Listen to whatever accessories you can get to...like the supercharger, any pumps, etc. Be careful of course!! Try to put the bar near the front of the unit/accessory you are listening to.
If one of the units is making that sound you will definitely hear it. Google this to get more info on how to do this.
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amcdonal86 (04-11-2013)
#114
That sound reminds me (in older cars) of bearings in a water pump going bad. It also sounds a lot like worn clutch on the air conditioning unit. I think it is one of your belt driven accessories.
The only way you will truly be able to identify what is making that sound is to examine each of the items driven by the belts under load. (I think someone else suggested this a well) If you have a long metal breaker bar or something similar, take your engine cover off, get someone to rev your engine to 2500 to 3000 rpms and use the metal bar like a stethoscope. Listen to whatever accessories you can get to...like the supercharger, any pumps, etc. Be careful of course!! Try to put the bar near the front of the unit/accessory you are listening to.
If one of the units is making that sound you will definitely hear it. Google this to get more info on how to do this.
The only way you will truly be able to identify what is making that sound is to examine each of the items driven by the belts under load. (I think someone else suggested this a well) If you have a long metal breaker bar or something similar, take your engine cover off, get someone to rev your engine to 2500 to 3000 rpms and use the metal bar like a stethoscope. Listen to whatever accessories you can get to...like the supercharger, any pumps, etc. Be careful of course!! Try to put the bar near the front of the unit/accessory you are listening to.
If one of the units is making that sound you will definitely hear it. Google this to get more info on how to do this.
#115
last time i asked if it was doing the same with the old battery and you did not responded. you are going to take the car to the same dealer again?
is it the battery a jag dealer will install or is it different from the previous, you said there is 6 pounds of difference?
is it the battery a jag dealer will install or is it different from the previous, you said there is 6 pounds of difference?
I will probably take the car to the same dealer again. The other dealership near me is owned by the same company so it's not much different. There is another dealership maybe an 1.5 hours away (with traffic) that is a different chain of dealers, but I'm not sure if it's going to be any better.
#116
That sound reminds me (in older cars) of bearings in a water pump going bad. It also sounds a lot like worn clutch on the air conditioning unit. I think it is one of your belt driven accessories.
The only way you will truly be able to identify what is making that sound is to examine each of the items driven by the belts under load. (I think someone else suggested this a well) If you have a long metal breaker bar or something similar, take your engine cover off, get someone to rev your engine to 2500 to 3000 rpms and use the metal bar like a stethoscope. Listen to whatever accessories you can get to...like the supercharger, any pumps, etc. Be careful of course!! Try to put the bar near the front of the unit/accessory you are listening to.
If one of the units is making that sound you will definitely hear it. Google this to get more info on how to do this.
The only way you will truly be able to identify what is making that sound is to examine each of the items driven by the belts under load. (I think someone else suggested this a well) If you have a long metal breaker bar or something similar, take your engine cover off, get someone to rev your engine to 2500 to 3000 rpms and use the metal bar like a stethoscope. Listen to whatever accessories you can get to...like the supercharger, any pumps, etc. Be careful of course!! Try to put the bar near the front of the unit/accessory you are listening to.
If one of the units is making that sound you will definitely hear it. Google this to get more info on how to do this.
#117
It is a different battery. The battery I just installed is an AGM battery, the stock/OEM one is not. I'm not sure if the stock/OEM battery is the same as the old battery I put in.
I will probably take the car to the same dealer again. The other dealership near me is owned by the same company so it's not much different. There is another dealership maybe an 1.5 hours away (with traffic) that is a different chain of dealers, but I'm not sure if it's going to be any better.
I will probably take the car to the same dealer again. The other dealership near me is owned by the same company so it's not much different. There is another dealership maybe an 1.5 hours away (with traffic) that is a different chain of dealers, but I'm not sure if it's going to be any better.
otherwise i will say the place who sold it to you sounds like the guy who sold me the xj, good to avoid. I hope you got a good deal, which I think. May I ask how much you paid for ? Personally I will not hesitate to drive 2 hours away if needed.
Last edited by jagxk2008; 04-11-2013 at 11:16 AM.
#118
I paid $35,000 for it with 55k miles on it or so and 6 months of Select Edition coverage remaining. I think I did OK. I'm not regretting it--I'm just finding it a little frustrating sorting out these issues. The car drives 99% great. It's just those minor niggles that are driving me nuts.
That being said, the car has only had one visit to the dealer, so I don't know if I've given them adequate time to address these issues, although they had the car 5+ business days.
That being said, the car has only had one visit to the dealer, so I don't know if I've given them adequate time to address these issues, although they had the car 5+ business days.
#119
I paid $35,000 for it with 55k miles on it or so and 6 months of Select Edition coverage remaining. I think I did OK. I'm not regretting it--I'm just finding it a little frustrating sorting out these issues. The car drives 99% great. It's just those minor niggles that are driving me nuts.
That being said, the car has only had one visit to the dealer, so I don't know if I've given them adequate time to address these issues, although they had the car 5+ business days.
That being said, the car has only had one visit to the dealer, so I don't know if I've given them adequate time to address these issues, although they had the car 5+ business days.
they will contact the dealer, there is dispute between dealers and buyers and also between jag corporate and dealerships, I will not go there without calling jag and the other dealer to see if he ever addressed this issues in the past.
otherwise you are going to be in for a long time i think.
also i talked about the maintenance book cause the last dealer who serviced this car may know all about it.
And to me it does not sounds like this car was well serviced.
if you call jag corporate you have one good point for yourself you're not calling jaguar france.
Last edited by jagxk2008; 04-11-2013 at 02:32 PM.