OK, new dust boot is on, question is how do I get the prescribed torque rating if you have to use a box wrench and torx bit to keep ball joint from spinning? Also has anyone re-used the ball joint bolt? Seems hard to find new ones.

 

Use physics. Pull 50 pounds of force on a 1-foot long wrench to get fifty foot-pounds. ..... or whatever, I don't know the required torque.

 

Use something like a crows-foot wrench attached to your torque wrench...

 

Great answer, but the ball joint screw hole is for either a t30 torx bit or #4 allen. I do have the crows foot though. Thanks. By the way the service manual say 66 ft lbs.

 

That's one grunt and two extra yanks.

 

Sounds a lot like my last Saturday night.....

 

OK crew, got-er-done! Rechecked the ball joints and flogged it for about 50 miles around town. Job wasn't tough at all, biggest deal was waiting for the boots and nuts to finish up. A couple of observations though:
1. Not sure of the correct size for the ball joint shaft hole, but a #5 allen worked for me best.
2. Found the boots on Amazon to meet my shadetree measurements, but 15-30-22 seemed to work good for me. I'm sure these are the original control arms.
3. Found a cable from the chassis to the rear of the brake caliper that I wasn't sure of (see pix), problem was it was missing on the passenger side caliper. Sort of worried about that. Never noticed any driving effects or got any codes. Checking the Svc Man for that.

Finally, noticed what I thought was a small oil leak a couple times on my garage floor after my trips, but seems to be a little more than I thought sitting in the bottom body panel when I checked further. Couldn't find any apparent source yet, just hope it's not too bad. I'll check "oil leak" posts and I guess back to the manual before I start a teardown. All n all enjoyed the work and definitely enjoyed the "test drive" afterwards. Thanks to all for the tips and help. I'll keep you posted on the "leak".


Trying the tie strap per someone's post, didn't seem like it would stay tight, we'll see.


Found this on the drivers side caliper. There seems to be some cradles for a cable on the passenger side but noooo cable.

 

That looks to be a brake pad wear sensor. Is your car equipped with that software? Course with no connecting cable probably not, but you got someone to install the pads that include it so it was attached and dangles.
Anyone else have better thoughts on this?

 

+1 to Brake Wear Sensor

It plugs into this black connector:




The end of the white harness from the Sensor can be seen below the connector.

For anyone removing the Sensor to fit new pads - ease it out carefully. The Sensor costs 34 UKP from Jaguar.

Graham

 

since it's connected on one side and missing on the other side it sounds like I probably do have that option and I need to get that passenger side cable. How do I check to see if my 2010 has the brake liner warning or was it standard for all XKRs? Thanks.

 

Usually there is only one sensor per axle, so one on the front and one on the rear. It assumes that both pads wear evenly.

 

Thanks, that sounds like the logical explanation.