Hi all,

I am having a difficult time trying to replace the Sway bar / Stabilizer bar bushings on a 2008 XKR.

I can get to the rear nuts holding the bushing bracket, through the wheel well, but cannot for the life of me see how to get to the front nuts.

Has anyone done this and could anyone please, please give me a pointer here? I have to get this done today or tomorrow at the latest.

Many thanks in advance,

Phil

 

Too bad I didn't get any help.

Left side ended up taking me about 4 1/2 hours - but I figured it out. Right sde should take no more than about an hour.

Anyone have to same predicament, hit me up. I figured out what they don't tell you in the manual.

Doing this on an old XK is about 20 mins - on this series it is insane - even the dealership said they allow 5 hours for this.

Phil

 

Waiting only eight hours for a reply on a Saturday isn't the best way to get assistance. Not everyone sits around waiting for people to post. Plus, bushes and such aren't really a major replacement requirement for most owners. Mine are still fine after 60k miles.
A better way to get help is to use the "Search This Forum" option.

It's good that you got the job done regardless, these things aren't the Exotic/Impossible monsters most people seem to think they are.

 

 

Hi again, yes, I realize my request was a little last minute but I only discovered the challenges once I was well into the job! I did do plenty of "Searching on this forum" but found nothing for this job / model.

So for the next person out there here is what I did.

Access to the U-brackets is extremely tight, there is zero access from beneath the vehicle. To access the brackets from behind the wheel well it is necessary to remove the trim and also to remove the bolts holding the crossbar (between the radiator and the engine). Once that is loose the crossbar can be pulled towards you by about 3 inches as you face the wheel to give you a little more space. It is also necessary to remove the plastic shield tween the wheel well and the sub engine compartment which is held in place by 4 trim clips with screws, be careful not to strip those screws!

There should now be enough space to get a socket into there from the wheel well and break those bolts loose. Access to removing the bolts needs a 3 foot long 1/4” drive extension, fed from the top between engine and radiator. A 1/4 drive 13 mm universal joint socket was the MVP that day.

Putting the new bushing onto the sway bar and then trying to put the U bracket on and bolting it down proved to be a time consuming and fruitless endeavor.
It was extremely difficult to align the bracket bolts and be sure that there would be no danger of cross threading those bolts due to the limited space available. You do NOT want to cross thread those bolts; the nuts for them are welded INSIDE the cross member and you would be up defecation creek without the paddle. Big, big job.

My solution was as follows.
I cleaned the threads of the nuts with spray cleaner and ran the bolts through a die, I cleaned and lubricated all the threads with thread lube to further reduce any risk of damage to those threads.

I thoroughly cleaned all the areas including the surface of the cross member, inside and outside of the U brackets and the surface of the sway bar itself with degreasing fluid. I liberally coated all of these surfaces with plenty of silicone spray. I positioned the bracket in place and replaced the bolts turning them only enough for the threads to seat, about two turns. I coated the inside and outside of the new bushing with silicone spray and placed it on the sway bar. (It helps to loosen the nuts between the sway bar and the sway bar link to allow some motion of the sway bar). You can also use a crowbar to carefully adjust the sway bar. By pushing the bushing in, along the bar towards the inside of the car and alternately pulling the bracket back over the bushing and toward you several times I was able to get the bushing seated in place under the bracket. Make sure you verify that all is correctly seated using a mechanics’ mirror!

Access to tightening down the bolts was again from the engine compartment and a final tighten down was possible from within the wheel wells.

Very simple - less than a very comfortable hour per side.

That is it! I hope this is of help to the next guy.

By the way I used URO bushes p/n XR819697

Phil

 

I had to change an upper control arm and while I was at it I removed the sway bushings and re-fitted them.

Reason? The bushings made awful rubber creaking sounds and I was advised by a dealer mechanic to put a light smear of WHITE LITHIUM GREASE on the inside of the bushings. I cleaned everything off and did as he said and now the car is truly perfect!!

Doing it a second time, as I already had the car up, took about 20 mins each side - now I know how to do it!

PS - it IS possible to fit an upper control arm WITHOUT removing the shock entirely - Put a strap around the upper knuckle and the shock to steady the knuckle and rotor. Support the rotor / knuckle with another jack, loosen off the top shock bolts and gently lower the shock to where you can move it around to allow the Control Arm to body bolts to be released/refitted !
Remember to tighten the control arm bolts once the weight of the vehicle is back on the wheels ! ;-)



Phil

 

Well done Philbone. Great write up.

I have a 2007 XKR that squeaks when going over a speed hump which I put down to the ARB bushes so I have purchased new bushes. I have actually booked the Jag into my local independent Jag garage due to the cold and wet weather to have new front lower wishbone arms fitted as well as the ARB bushes. As they let me "help", your article will be of great benefit.
I've just been having a look under the bonnet witha torch and can only JUST see the LHS bolts that need to be removed but cannot see the RHS bolts at all. Hopefully all will be clearer after loosening the crossbar.
Thank you.