While tooling around town for no reason I got the dreaded System Lean show up, so of course I figured "Vacuum Leak".
I got it parked and went searching for something loose or broken and almost immediately found a disconnected line on the left side from the air intake "T". I popped that sucker back on, but sadly discovered that the "T" moved just a bit too much.
I wiggled it and found a crack on the top of the Throttle Body mount, I pulled the "T" and the whole thing came apart at that location. Yay.
I got the "T" out only breaking one other plastic connector, so that was.... mediocre. Now I have to go find some sort of flexible large diameter something to run from the "T" part up to the Throttle Body. I sort of remember that some other forum member did this, Ranchero maybe? He's got a 4.2 to my 5.0 so specifics probably wouldn't help but generalities will. I searched but found nothing because Search Sucks.
I also found a couple deteriorated rubber vacuum lines I need to swap.

 

Dang that's no good.

A length of silicone and a couple hose clamps should sort you out.

 

Yeah, trip to Lowes got mine going again with the aluminum tubing. Not sure about dealing with plastic. I you had time and a decent Tig setup, wheel out some aluminum and weld it together.

 

Lowe's had nothing I found that would work. Neither did Home Depot. I checked out an O'Reilly's and dude handed me a Ricer Turbo fitting with two worms. "Spectre" brand.
I cut off the cracked part of the Tbody clamp area and installed the Spectre deal using some silicone inside and outside the adapter ring included with the sleeve since it's silicone (or whatever) to the plastic-type stuff Jag used as it gives more than mere plastic. Lightly applied the worm clamp and now I will let that part cure for awhile. I already test fit the other end of the Spectre to the Throttle body and it fits nicely. The length is also spot-on. Cost was like $14.
Here's what I have so far.....

 

Looks good, plus the label should be good for some free HP.

 

Its upside down! You ruined it!! Haha

 

Now that you found that put your car in gear with hood open, foot on brake and give a little gas. See if the engine jump up or stays in place. Many times i find the drivers side engine mount broken letting the engine jump up on acceleration and breaking the piece apart as it has gotten old and brittle. If the mount is bad i always replace both because i have had many showing no leaks but when removed theyre all broken

 

I thought that exact same thing last night while I was repairing the broken mounting tab. Thanks for lending some validity to my concerns.

 

If anyone cares, I also broke the Coolant Bleed Hose connector off when I removed the intake tube. I can find some replacements for the entire line, but it goes all over the front and I don't want to spend $125 for a piece when I only need literally 20mm of it, plus the added labor and hassle of tracing all the places it goes. SO, the 'some assembly required' replacement part is shown next to the broken original piece. Yes, I know, dissimilar metals and all that. I'll coat it so it isn't brass-to-aluminum in the output tube and also coat the inside tube-ish passages so no free electrons in the coolant.

 

Sounds like my weekend. Find something to fix only to find something else to fix.

Good luck man. Fingers crossed

 

I finally got a chance to mill on the connector and it fits perfectly. Now to electroplate it and install for good.
THEN I can check for a broken engine mount, and hopefully if it IS bad it won't tear my repairs apart when it jumps.
Milled connector; the jaws messed up the prettiness, but it is what it is. At least it will never break again, ever:

 

Yessir, I have a broken engine mount on the left side. Since I no longer have access to a lift guess I must find a shop to do this work. Sucks for me.

 

That is unfortunate, Cee Jay.

I changed mounts on my BMW and on my Mercedes without a lift, just using a jack and jack-stands, but really don't want to do it again.

 

Shouldn't be too hateful if you have a helper to bring you tools. Being tall I'd rather lay on my back than stoop.

 

Thing is, all my GOOD tools are at my shop which is like 20 miles away from where I live, and it already has one Mustang on jack stands that isn't ready to move yet and another Mustang that needs an engine rebuilt with nowhere to put it. I have normal people tools here, but I'm sure I'd need my good ones to do the job and I don't want to bring them all from there to my home and then back again. What a quandary. Guess that's what I get for not yet building a big ole shop at THIS house (yet). Plus since my back has some fairly serious problems I'd rather not get it torn half apart then have to tow it somewhere.

I just watched the only video I could find on Jag engine mounts, and I don't really want to do all what that guy did. I'll just go to my local guy and pay the $500 or so he will charge. Plus the $200 for the part.

 

damn i only charge $300 for both, maybe i need to up my price . More for the drivers since you have to drop the rack. The 5.0 can be a bear though because occasionally you have to take the mount bracket out and or drop the subframe down a bit. And I would change both. I can guarantee that passenger is broken too .

 

Dang, guess I never finished this thread off.

Anyway, I got the engine mount replaced and it cost like $380 all-in, parts and labor. The intake repair is still strong, although I tore off the blue RTV sealant on the first attempt so I removed it all with no adverse effects.
The coolant line connector I built works better than OEM mostly because it's not fragile and will last for decades.
I didn't do the right side engine mount, mostly because it's always in compression, but I had my shop check it anyway, and dude said he'd not do it and it'd probably never be anything.

So, everything is hunky-dory and has been for these past five months.
(if a mod or admin wants to mark this 'resolved', go for it)

 

What did you use for an engine mount? Something from Lowes or Home Depot. I for one would not go within a 1000ft of a car that was repaired with hardware store parts.

 

If you double up this stuff, it's pretty strong

 

I had the same engine lean codes three weeks ago, and sure enough a vacuum leak in the same area. Fixed and haven't had the CEL since then.