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The dealer checked for quiescent battery drains with the car in sleep and found no problems. My problem is when I drive the car the battery is not being maintained. No codes or electrical problems. After a drive the optional ctek battery health indicator turns amber indicating a charge is required. If I continue to drive the car after about 2 - 3 weeks the car barely turns over when starting it. I have a new AGM battery and alternator.
How did you get your voltage readings, at the battery, torque pro, ADU etc. This is my second new AGM battery
I understand the ICU and BMS receive data from the battery and the ICU trumps the BMS if there is a problem.
Via OBD and VOM. Also I should note, BMS was replaced because the ECO batteries kept dying. That issue was never resolved. Fortunately the X150 doesn't have that problem. There's been discussions here whether AGM is appropriate for the X150 BMS. I know JLR did supply AGM batteries in some markets for some VINs and flooded as well. Others here have fitted AGM batteries with no issues on the facelift cars so I reckon that has nothing to do with it. You've a new alternator and new battery, so it must be an issue with BMS. Perhaps push the main dealer to seek assistance from JLR support?
I switched over to and AGM several months ago. I have experienced no issues. AT the ADU the voltage reads 12.3 with the car not started. While driving my range is 13.4 -14.2 volts. If I'm being repetitive forgive me, but could the BMS be at issue here?
I switched over to and AGM several months ago. I have experienced no issues. AT the ADU the voltage reads 12.3 with the car not started. While driving my range is 13.4 -14.2 volts. If I'm being repetitive forgive me, but could the BMS be at issue here?
Hey Ralph, Thanks for the info. I thought for sure the new alternator would fix this elusive problem. Now I have an extra good alternator as a paper weight. I had the car out today and the ADU never went above 11.8 and went as low as 11.2--no elictrical problems. Everything works perfectly. I should have did a battery voltage reading when I got home, but put the battery maintainer on immediately. I think the BMS is called the "battery negative cable" and is not too expensive. I'll go into the dealer next week to see about picking one up. I was very disappointed with the service I got at the dealer. The technician was very arrogant. Same dealer reinstalled my super charger under warranty after bending the actuator rod when it was in for warranty work for the torsion isolator and never told me. Good thing I had pictures of the SC, which I took, on their bench with the actuator perfectly straight. I'm OCD about this car and have maintained it in perfect condition.
Interstate recommends an AGM battery for 2012-13 models and a flooded battery for 2014-15. I think my 2nd new battery is already going bad. I'm giving it back to Interstate for inspection under warranty. Although, if they replace it they will replace with same AGM. I'm not sure why interstate does not recommend the premium AGM battery for 2014-15 years. Could it be that the size is a bit different (the AGM battery is a bit higher).
I've also ordered a new negative cable which includes the BMS. I'm hoping the the new BMS negative cable fixes the problem. I may have to switch back to a flooded battery. The negative cable, which includes the BMS, has the same part number for 2013 and 2014 year, but interstate recommends 2 different batteries.
Installed new negative battery cable which includes the BMS and had the new AGM battery checked by manufacturer, Interstate. Still no difference. The car is not maintaining the battery at full charge. Don't know where else to look, but for a loose ground wire.
I switched over to and AGM several months ago. I have experienced no issues. AT the ADU the voltage reads 12.3 with the car not started. While driving my range is 13.4 -14.2 volts. If I'm being repetitive forgive me, but could the BMS be at issue here?
Just an FYI but 12.3V is around 60% battery charge. . You need to see 12.6 -12.7 volts for 100% charge. Anything lower requires a battery charge (10Amps or better) and not a battery maintainer .
Just an FYI but 12.3V is around 60% battery charge. . You need to see 12.6 -12.7 volts for 100% charge. Anything lower requires a battery charge (10Amps or better) and not a battery maintainer .
Over 13 for a full charge on an AGM battery for a full charge. I'm sure I'm going to kill another AGM battery.
My ADU read 12.2 volts when I connected the battery. On a volt meter before connecting it it was 13.04.
