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Several days and a large blood offering later, I got the coolant crossover pipe off the xkr to replace a hose. I had to drill the head off of a posidrive bolt that was gutted (not by me). I tried a screw extractor but couldn't get good purchase, and of course it was the hardest to get to!
Is that the pipe connector that goes to the thermostat housing?
The pin that holds the upper end loop of the string attached to the glove box damper mechanism fails. Some people have Ty-wrapped the loop to the hole where the failed pin went through rather than fix the pin. Search the forum for specifics.
As V7Sport said. Options are to drill a hole in the drop arm near where the cable originally attached and insert a cotter pin or bolt, or as I did, just use a good zip tie and run the cable loop through it and it should be good to go. Glove box now opens slowly as it should instead of slamming open in an entirely UN-Jaguar fashion. :-)
Determined my coolant leak is under the SC, so back in for that unpleasant task again. I did the valley hoses 3 years ago. Seems too soon for those to have failed already.
Determined my coolant leak is under the SC, so back in for that unpleasant task again. I did the valley hoses 3 years ago. Seems too soon for those to have failed already.
Just had mine done - hope they last longer than 3 years.
Not exactly today but took it to the track, wonderful experience!
Couldn't turn off traction control completely though which threw me off.
Tried pushing the Trac DSC button for a couple seconds (with Trac DSC on) and all it did was just turn on the regular traction control again.
Not exactly today but took it to the track, wonderful experience!
Couldn't turn off traction control completely though which threw me off.
Tried pushing the Trac DSC button for a couple seconds (with Trac DSC on) and all it did was just turn on the regular traction control again.
Usually have to hold it around 12-13 sec for mine to turn off.
Hello old friend ...not this again 😂 Ive seriously lost count ..
**Word of warning even with the amount of experience Ive had I would not recommend compressing the front springs like this !!! use a proper wall mounted spring compressor or remove shock and have suspension shop compress spring for you and remount. Always check the replacement shock is fully functional at the start of the job and doesn't throw any codes So satisfying and such a relief getting that top nut on !!! Make sure you release the braided brake hose from the body to prevent it stretching & damage (10mm bolt) A lick of paint looks brand new
Hello old friend ...not this again 😂 Ive seriously lost count ..
**Word of warning even with the amount of experience Ive had I would not recommend compressing the front springs like this !!! use a proper wall mounted spring compressor or remove shock and have suspension shop compress spring for you and remount.
So satisfying and such a relief getting that top nut on !!! Make sure you release the braided brake hose from the body to prevent it stretching & damage (10mm bolt)
You are the expert on this now! I did that compression once, a bit nerve wracking. Last time the replacement used shocks came with springs attached, so woohoo! Didn’t think about releasing the brake line, tied the knuckle up to keep it from falling that far, but your way certainly gives more space to work. Nice job!
